Kanger Clearomizers/Cartomizers?

[State O' Flux]

unfortunately, have the same questions as you. They look so much the same,sometimes i do not know that how to distinguish with them.

Don't worry about it. This is how it breaks down:

1. Protank 2 or 2 mini. Capacities vary. Latest version - fully disassembleable/cleanable. Glass "tank". Large diameter air tube (2.85mm) in coil head with a 10mm head base plate. Head is interchangeable with EVOD head.
   Good air flow, great taste and vapor. Super popular... "checks all the boxes" for looks, functionality, ease of maintenance and performance. The standard that all large clearo/glassomizers are invariably held to.
   
   
2. EVOD. Sub 2ml capacity. Metal over plastic tank. Did have it's own, small air tube (1.85mm) EVOD coil head, but as the Protank coil head is better, perhaps the best balanced coil head there is, the EVOD head was dropped and now you use the PT head.
   Fair air flow with EVOD coil head.
   Similar properties as PT when fit with a PT coil head. Very popular, will be even more popular now that they are coming with PT coil heads... think small capacity, cheap, good "out and about" clearo with Protank like performance.
   
   
3. T3 and T3S. 2+ ml capacity. Same tanks. Difference is the base and coil head are separate parts on the T3S - this is preferable, because heads are cheaper. Good air flow, good-great taste and vapor. On the T3S (Based on measurements and test fitting on my recently purchased samples), coil head base plates are 9mm and not interchangeable with Protank/EVOD coil heads.
   The T3 is bound to disappear soon, as there's no advantage over a T3S. Buy a T3S base and coils... instant T3 to T3S. I'd say the performance is close to a Protank, so think of this as the small form factor, cheap, looks good on an eGo, Protank'ish clearo.
   
   
4. T2. Top coil clearomizer. 2+ ml capacity. Easy to fill/refill. Gotta' do the tip/swirl thing as fluid level drops to keep wicks wet. No big deal. Good flavor and vapor. A warmer vape than a bottom coil. Some say the best basic TCC around for the money. Small form factor, looks good on a eGo. (I'm not much of a TCC fan, so not much for comments other than the facts)

When you buy Kanger... Unless you are one seriously cheap bastidge, buy genuine Kanger. The BS you have to deal with to make the copies work isn't (for me at least) worth the buck or two you save.

Anyone that would like to add or correct this, be my guest. Can't think of everything off the top of my head, and my experience with the PT and T2 is limited.

 

[Gaspar74]

^

Spot on analysis I have the evods and the T3S love them both but have had leaking with T3S at first. Just make sure the head is tight and its the correct one. Evodrotank heads will not work on this even though they basically look identical.

 

[Emski]

Another issue with EVODs purchased more further back than the past two weeks is that they may have EVOD heads in them.
The new ones will have Protank heads, which have larger inside diameter (2.85mm) air tubes and deliver more flavor and vapor than the smaller ID (1.85mm) EVOD heads. If you can get the shaft of a real Q-Tip into the air tube you have a Protank coil head... if you can't, you have the older EVOD coil head. Take a look at yours.

I bought mine about 2 months ago, so I must have the older version. Is there a way to buy parts to upgrade it to the newer type?

 

[Emski]

It's entirely possible that the T3s you bought are fakes. I've bought T3 and T3S knock-offs, clones, fakes - call them what you will... and they all leaked. When I bought genuine Kanger T3S bases and T3S heads... not only did I update the T3s to T3S status, but they all stopped leaking and now work just fine.
Any time you buy Kanger (or just about anything for that matter) make sure you're getting genuine products... unless of course you want a clone product. Caveat Emptor.

I bought mine from a vape store so I assumed that it must be a genuine Kanger. Is there any way to tell by looking at it if it's the real thing or not?

 

[Emski]

Whoops, still getting used to this forum. Thought responding with quotes would go right under that person's comment, not to the end of the thread! So sorry for posting three times in a row.. just wanted to also thank everyone for responding so quickly! Didn't check back on my post until this morning because I assumed it would take some time to get some answers... I was shocked there were already 3 pages of comments!

But thanks everyone for clearing all of that up. I'm not sure if I'm going to invest in another Kanger model though, as I've just bought the Halo Triton and have been blown away. Before that, was using the CE5 or "stardust" clearomizers with an ego battery, but was trying to figure out what to do with my Evod that's been just sitting around for weeks now.

 

[State O' Flux]

Emski...

Wish I could show you a genuine and a fake side by side and point out all the diffs. Genuine Kanger may or may not be marked as such on the base. Genuine will have laser engraved resistance value on the bottom of their replacement coil heads.
Genuine, as a rule, don't leak and work great right from the package. Here's a little thing I wrote a few weeks ago... might help.

Protank/EVOD coil heads differ from EVOD heads in the size of the vent tube inside diameter. You can get a Q-Tip shaft in the Protank/EVOD and in a straight up EVOD, you can't. Here's a blog thing. I'm new to blogs... so bear with me, I am an idiot.

 

[Emski]

Would you be able to take a picture? Since in the blog you said you had compared them side to side. Though for me, it doesn't hit hard, it's just extremely gurgly (and I've cleaned out the air hole part). Sometimes when I use my VV at high voltages, it stops but other times it doesn't.

 

[CurlyBmore]

Another issue with EVODs purchased more further back than the past two weeks is that they may have EVOD heads in them.
The new ones will have Protank heads,

Yikes! I didn't know the newer evods were coming with pro-tank heads. I bought a few "evod" heads from my local B&M. I went back two days later upset with them for selling me protank heads instead. They even showed me a box that was marked evod/protank but I still insisted they sold me the wrong ones. Looks like I'll be taking another trip back to apologize. Personaly, I preferred the evod heads in both.

Kind of funny though that just a short time ago so many people posted that pro- tanks were better with evod coils and now we are putting pro tank coils in the evods. LOL

 

[State O' Flux]

Would you be able to take a picture? Since in the blog you said you had compared them side to side. Though for me, it doesn't hit hard, it's just extremely gurgly (and I've cleaned out the air hole part). Sometimes when I use my VV at high voltages, it stops but other times it doesn't.

Sorry no. I also said that I stole the photo from another member's post. I do not have a digital camera.
Aside from technical issues which are covered extensively in other threads, "gurgling" can be an issue with technique... drawing too hard, not balancing intake air flow with your typical inhale. Try covering one of the holes on the clearo base, and/or inhaling more slowly or with less, ah... vacuum.

 

[tinkrrrbell]

I just picked up a Protank II today. If my phone wasn't dead, I'd show it to you. I was going to just pick up a few more evods but I decided to splurge... I got to try it in store (the tip is removable so the gal behind the counter let me take a swig from hers with a plastic disposable tip). I liked it right away.

Granted, I'm still new at this stuff, but I felt that even on an eGo upgrade (non-variable voltage) battery, it's has a nice, warm, airy vape with solid vapor production. It comes completely apart for easy cleaning unlike the evod, which all you can really do to clean is soak in warm water and maybe use a q-tip... And the pray you got it good.

That removable tip is nice for us cold weather folks because we can get a cute little acrylic so when it's -25 we don't have to put our lips to cold metal. I thought that was a nice option.

My evod crackles a but even when it's nice and clean. Doesn't bother me much. Haven't noticed any crackling with the new Protank.

 

[mattrhdr]

I got 3 protanks and I love them, I wont use anything else. The only thing that bothers me is how often i have to change the coils. Other than that they are fantastic and work great with my SID and vision spinners. Im too lazy to be bothered by changing the wick myself, so I just purchase the full coils. they are like 8 bucks for 5 coils. What do people prefer for a more dense vapor and a more flavorful hit? The 1.8ohm coil or the 2.2 or 2.5ohm?

 

[Fizzpop]

I got 3 protanks and I love them, I wont use anything else. The only thing that bothers me is how often i have to change the coils. Other than that they are fantastic and work great with my SID and vision spinners. Im too lazy to be bothered by changing the wick myself, so I just purchase the full coils. they are like 8 bucks for 5 coils. What do people prefer for a more dense vapor and a more flavorful hit? The 1.8ohm coil or the 2.2 or 2.5ohm?

I rebuild mine and aim for a 2.4Ohm setup. You really should try rebuilding - the Kanger coils are easy to rebuild and you will save money in the long run. Also, make sure you are cleaning your coils; this will greatly extend the life of your coils.

 

[mattrhdr]

I rebuild mine and aim for a 2.4Ohm setup. You really should try rebuilding - the Kanger coils are easy to rebuild and you will save money in the long run. Also, make sure you are cleaning your coils; this will greatly extend the life of your coils.

I will eventually rebuild them, but at this point im just gonna go with changing the coils. Can you elaborate on cleaning the coils? How exactly do you do it, thanks.

 

[superfobsonny]

I am currently using the Kanger MT3s. After using the Vivi Nova tank and some of the Stardust CE's, I was looking for a smaller form factor (tank is a bit clunky for me) and bottom wick/coil set-up (CE's were leaky and I wanted to harvest gravity's energy). The MT3s was great on all counts. Good vapor production, good flavors, easy disassembly and cleaning, and very affordable replacement coils. +1 for the MT3s.

 

[superfobsonny]

@mattrhdr: Dry burning is a pretty effective way to clean your coil, if you hadn't already knew that.

 

[mattrhdr]

No I'm pretty new to this stuff, i don't know much yet. I would really appreciate some info on how to clean them and how to make them last as long as possible. Im also gonna order a pack of coils, and dont know if i should go with the 1.8ohm or 2.2ohm. I dont know what the difference is and what u get from the different resistance. Thanks guys

 

[Fizzpop]

How to clean your Kanger T3 coils:

 

[mattrhdr]

Just making sure that these are the correct coils for the Kanger Protech tank, can someone verify these for me? Im 99% sure they are the right ones but just making sure before I place an order, thanks.

https://www.canvape.com/Protank-Replacement-Coils-p/procoiltank.htm?1=1&CartID=5

 

[Lombaowski]

Just making sure that these are the correct coils for the Kanger Protech tank, can someone verify these for me? Im 99% sure they are the right ones but just making sure before I place an order, thanks.

https://www.canvape.com/Protank-Replacement-Coils-p/procoiltank.htm?1=1&CartID=5

Yep, those are the ones

 

[Fizzpop]

Just making sure that these are the correct coils for the Kanger Protech tank, can someone verify these for me? Im 99% sure they are the right ones but just making sure before I place an order, thanks.

https://www.canvape.com/Protank-Replacement-Coils-p/procoiltank.htm?1=1&CartID=5

Those look like what you need for a Protank.

Edit: I'd go for the 2.2 Ohm coils personally.