What is VV, VW, and what do they do?

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IndigoChild

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I've asked this question a few times, and I've never gotten an answer that makes any sense to me - most people answer as though they're assuming I already know what watts and volts are. Basically I just got an MPV 2.0 and I'm trying to figure out what the voltage and wattage should be set at. I've figured out what's obvious - the higher the setting the more vapor you get. Right now it's on 9.0 Watts with 4.5 Volts on a 2.1 Ohms atomizer. That's my preference, however, several websites, phone apps and the user manual say that's too high. If I set it lower though, I don't get as much vapor as I like.

Basically, I'm assuming having it too high must result in a) the device explodes, b) the device just breaks from overheating or short-circuiting (without the explosion part, lol) c) the coil burns out way before its lifespan should be up, or d) the vapor becomes smoke. I think I change coils more often than most other people, but it's usually because certain flavors are so heavy that they soak into the wick so intensely that I then can't get the after-taste out enough for it to not mix with the new flavor I'm putting in - especially when, say, going from tropical fruit to a light vanilla flavor. (I save the coils though and label them, tropical fruit, vanillas, berries, etc. etc. instead of just tossing them).

My devices usually get searing hot, I have to admit, but I thought that was just from chain-vaping - now I'm thinking it might have something to do with voltage or wattage? I have noticed that 4.8 volts is the highest I can get it without it burning or making a weird taste... 5.0 is too high I guess. So, basically, if anyone can explain this to me, think as though you're talking to a five year old kid. I am college educated, but in biological life science, not physics - at all.

To be honest I have no idea what an Ohm, mAh, watt, or volt even is, and changing a light bulb is about as much as I can do with electrics. I'm Wiki'ing ohm, mah watt and volt right now though to try and figure out what's up... I must have seriously missed some important classes in high school science or something because everyone else I know seems to know what these things are. I do understand they're measurements invented by people though. Oh yeah, to add to that list, what is resistance?

Jeez, I feel lame right now - they just never taught any of this in a bachelor's in physical anthropology... I could talk for hours though about the theories of evolution, the study of hominids, apes, monkeys, and prosimians, and how anthropological finds in DNA have advanced the world of forensics in crime scene investigation -shrug- ...None of that is helpful at all in figuring out how to operate vaporizers correctly :-/
 
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The Ocelot

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If you like the flavor and throat hit, that's all that matters.

"Right now it's on 9.0 Watts with 4.5 Volts on a 2.1 Ohms atomizer. That's my preference, however, several websites, phone apps and the user manual say that's too high."

Are you using the VW or VV mode? If you are using the VW mode and have it set for 9 watts, you are getting 9 watts; however, if you are using the VV mode and have it set to 4.5 volts with a 2.1Ω coil, you're getting 9.6 watts. Not a huge difference, but slightly warmer (doubtful you could tell anyway). In any case, 9 watts isn't high.

I can't read your whole post, a block of text is too much for me. If you add line spaces you will get more responses. Trust me.

I think I saw something about what would happen if the power was too high...You have an MVP, it's a regulated device and if set beyond it's limits it won't fire. Basically, if you set it too high, your juice will taste burnt.
 
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The Ocelot

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In response to the title:



This is a very simple overview of VV/VW, there are finer points (such as using dual coils) other members can advise you about. This is just to give you an idea of the difference and should not be taken as an opinion of which one is better.

Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage allows the user to increase or decrease the amount of power (watts) used by the heating element to vaporize the liquid; this affects temperature, throat hit and taste. Some juice may taste burnt at high levels, while others may seem less flavorful at low levels. It can also affect the amount of vapor produced, although the pg/vg ratio of a juice can be more important.

Volts are a measurement of input, ohms are a measurement of resistance and watts are a measure of output.

In Variable Voltage mode (or with devices that only have VV) you manually set the voltage level (input) based on the resistance (ohms) of the delivery device to produce the desired output level of power (watts). If the voltage level is set a 4 volts, it stays at 4 volts. If a tank with a 2.0Ω coil is put on, it will produce 8 watts. If a 3.0Ω coil is put on, it will produce 5.3 watts.

With Variable Wattage you set the device at the power level you prefer (for example 8w) and the device will measure the resistance (ohms) of the attached delivery system and automatically adjust the voltage to produce the wattage it was set at. (For example, if the delivery system has 2.0Ω resistance, the device will adjust to 4v to produce 8w; if the resistance is 3.0Ω, it will adjust to 4.9v to produce 8w). VW devices also have a VV mode, which you can switch to if you choose.

The way you attain the power level desired, whether it is by adjusting the watts or the volts, is personal preference. Ultimately, with both VV and VW you adjust the device to produce the taste and amount of vapor you like best.
 
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The Ocelot

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This doesn't illustrate watts, but it would be how much of the Amp guy is on the other side of the rope.

Ohm's%20Law.jpg


If the volts stayed the same, but the resistance was lower (the rope looser) more of the guy would be on the other side. If the resistance was higher (the rope tighter) less of the guy would be on the other side.
 

IndigoChild

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If you like the flavor and throat hit, that's all that matters.

"Right now it's on 9.0 Watts with 4.5 Volts on a 2.1 Ohms atomizer. That's my preference, however, several websites, phone apps and the user manual say that's too high."

Are you using the VW or VV mode? If you are using the VW mode and have it set for 9 watts, you are getting 9 watts; however, if you are using the VV mode and have it set to 4.5 volts with a 2.1Ω coil, you're getting 9.6 watts. Not a huge difference, but slightly warmer (doubtful you could tell anyway). In any case, 9 watts isn't high.

I can't read your whole post, a block of text is too much for me. If you add line spaces you will get more responses. Trust me.

I think I saw something about what would happen if the power was too high...You have an MVP, it's a regulated device and if set beyond it's limits it won't fire. Basically, if you set it too high, your juice will taste burnt.

You're right, that's better. I do space my posts, I just didn't realize this was that long and it was late so I didn't look at it much after I posted it. It should be easier on the eyes now. Oh yeah, I was adjusting both the VV and VW. I usually just use the VV - I was only playing around with the VW to try and see what it would do. So, how come if the device automatically balances it out to 9.6, it still shows 9.0 in the reading screen?
 
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IndigoChild

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May 10, 2014
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Sacramento, California, USA
In response to the title:



This is a very simple overview of VV/VW, there are finer points (such as using dual coils) other members can advise you about. This is just to give you an idea of the difference and should not be taken as an opinion of which one is better.

Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage allows the user to increase or decrease the amount of power (watts) used by the heating element to vaporize the liquid; this affects temperature, throat hit and taste. Some juice may taste burnt at high levels, while others may seem less flavorful at low levels. It can also affect the amount of vapor produced, although the pg/vg ratio of a juice can be more important.

Volts are a measurement of input, ohms are a measurement of resistance and watts are a measure of output.

In Variable Voltage mode (or with devices that only have VV) you manually set the voltage level (input) based on the resistance (ohms) of the delivery device to produce the desired output level of power (watts). If the voltage level is set a 4 volts, it stays at 4 volts. If a tank with a 2.0Ω coil is put on, it will produce 8 watts. If a 3.0Ω coil is put on, it will produce 5.3 watts.

With Variable Wattage you set the device at the power level you prefer (for example 8w) and the device will measure the resistance (ohms) of the attached delivery system and automatically adjust the voltage to produce the wattage it was set at. (For example, if the delivery system has 2.0Ω resistance, the device will adjust to 4v to produce 8w; if the resistance is 3.0Ω, it will adjust to 4.9v to produce 8w). VW devices also have a VV mode, which you can switch to if you choose.

The way you attain the power level desired, whether it is by adjusting the watts or the volts, is personal preference. Ultimately, with both VV and VW you adjust the device to produce the taste and amount of vapor you like best.

Thanks. That makes a LOT more sense now. If I may though, what is the definition for resistance in this application of the term? I keep thinking it has something to do with hard the liquid is being pulled on or something by electrical current but I know I'm way off...
 

Midniteoyl

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You're right, that's better. I do space my posts, I just didn't realize this was that long and it was late so I didn't look at it much after I posted it. It should be easier on the eyes now. Oh yeah, I was adjusting both the VV and VW. I usually just use the VV - I was only playing around with the VW to try and see what it would do. So, how come if the device automatically balances it out to 9.6, it still shows 9.0 in the reading screen?

Volts or Watts... you cannot do both. On the MVP, its whatever you looked at last that is set and the device is using.

Think of it like this... manual transmission vs automatic. In an automatic (wattage mode), you select 'drive' (watts) and the car selects whatever gear (voltage) is best for the speed (power) you want. In a manual, you have to change gears (voltage) to keep the car going the speed (power) you want. You stay in first too long (lower voltage), and you won't go any faster (more power or watts) until select the next gear (higher volts).

Saying you selected wattage and then adjust volts is like saying you selected 'D' on your gear shift, but then moved it to 'Low'.. you have just now over ridden the 'automatic' part of your automatic transmission and are now actually in manual transmission mode.
 

Midniteoyl

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Thanks. That makes a LOT more sense now. If I may though, what is the definition for resistance in this application of the term? I keep thinking it has something to do with hard the liquid is being pulled on or something by electrical current but I know I'm way off...

Resistance is the 'resistance to current flow', measured in Ohms. In this case, the ohms of your coil. ie: 1.8ohm coil, 2ohm coil, 2.2ohm coil. The higher you go in ohms, the more voltage it takes to achieve the desired watts (Ohms Law). Lower ohms require less volts, but also more amps (current). Also according to Ohms Law.
 

The Ocelot

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Nevermind. I get it from the illustration - I think.

Think of resistance as impeding or blocking the flow. I'm tired of the "Garden Hose Analogy," but it's useful. If you turn on a faucet with a garden hose attached, the water coming out at the end represents watts. If you squeeze a kink in the hose less water comes out. The kink is the resistance. The tighter the kink, the higher the resistance. So if you put a kink in the hose, but still want a lot of water coming out, you have to turn up the faucet (increase the volts). I tend to skip amps when initially giving an overview of the concept. When you have a firm grasp of the first three, it makes amps easier to understand.
 

The Ocelot

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...Oh yeah, I was adjusting both the VV and VW. I usually just use the VV - I was only playing around with the VW to try and see what it would do. So, how come if the device automatically balances it out to 9.6, it still shows 9.0 in the reading screen?

I haven't tried an MVP, but I imagine it works like other VV/VW devices. You use one mode at a time, either VV or VW, not both at the same time. If you're in VW mode and set it at 9w, that is what you will see on the screen, you won't see what the volts are. If you are in VV mode and set it to 4.5v, that is what you will see on the screen, you won't see what the watts are.

ETA:And mAh doesn't enter into what we are explaining. It stands for milliampere-hour, which in our application means the length of time a battery operates between charges. Simply put, 100 mAh is theoretically equal to 1 hour of power, such as a 700mAh battery would last 7 hours., (There's more to it, but we don't need to go there now.), but because vaping doesn't follow the rules and we are varying the power output, the batteries don't last as long as it says on the label.

When people ask me how long a battery will last, there is no definitive answer (again, there are other factors I'm skipping). I usually knock a few hours off, something like a 700mAh battery will last about 4/5 hours. If it lasts longer, yipee! If it doesn't, at least they knew the time would be shorter.
 
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Midniteoyl

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Think of resistance as impeding or blocking the flow. I'm tired of the "Garden Hose Analogy," but it's useful. If you turn on a faucet with a garden hose attached, the water coming out at the end represents watts. If you squeeze a kink in the hose less water comes out. The kink is the resistance. The tighter the kink, the higher the resistance. So if you put a kink in the hose, but still want a lot of water coming out, you have to turn up the faucet (increase the volts). I tend to skip amps when initially giving an overview of the concept. When you have a firm grasp of the first three, it makes amps easier to understand.

The amount of water would be amps ;)
 

twall

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Volts or Watts... you cannot do both. On the MVP, its whatever you looked at last that is set and the device is using.

Think of it like this... manual transmission vs automatic. In an automatic (wattage mode), you select 'drive' (watts) and the car selects whatever gear (voltage) is best for the speed (power) you want. In a manual, you have to change gears (voltage) to keep the car going the speed (power) you want. You stay in first too long (lower voltage), and you won't go any faster (more power or watts) until select the next gear (higher volts).

Saying you selected wattage and then adjust volts is like saying you selected 'D' on your gear shift, but then moved it to 'Low'.. you have just now over ridden the 'automatic' part of your automatic transmission and are now actually in manual transmission mode.

This is the most useful thing I've read on this forum yet! Thank you! So many around here assume that everyone knows about the "modes". I was confused, but just didn't ask.

Here's another question related to that. I just bought an itaste 134, that only has VW. However, since it's a microprocessor-controlled device, when I change the wattage ring, it changes the voltage too, right?

Again, awesome post. Made this clear as day. I wish I could give it more than one "like"! :D
 
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