my i clear is reading 2.11 ohms on my meter which is only down .01 ohms from yesterday.
What just happened to my battery?!? please help
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It could be an intermittent short depending on how you hold the device (ask me how I know this). I'd definitely repair or replace the atty int he device, if it's replaceable (I have no experience with the iClear).
Sounds like you and I both need to do some more reading. I don't know how resistive PG or VG is, but I can only assume that if you have a leakage problem where the head screws on to either your mod or your battery, then you might be able to induce a temporary short. Basically, if the juice is leaking through the center post, and the connection is all sloppy, that might create problems...
It also might confuse you because one minute, it is creating a short, and the next minute, everything seems fine...
It also might confuse you because one minute, it is creating a short, and the next minute, everything seems fine...
Hey! You got your cobalt in my lithium! You got your lithium on my cobalt! What!? mmmm, delicious!
So how much experience do you have with mechanical mods? It sounds like you have been using eGo batteries. Ego batteries have internal circuitry that shuts off the eGo battery BEFORE it is overdrained. Mechanical mods have no such circuitry. Even ONE overdrain CAN and WILL do exactly what you are describing right now. I have ruined a couple batteries in my day from one undercharge. Thankfully my mod buttons never melted or my hot springs never collapsed. But the inside of our batteries become more susceptible to problems if we overdrain them in our mechanical mods. The internal heat rises as the internal voltage is lowered, which causes the chemical molecular structures in our batteries to become agitated, and then they can vent or explodeee!
So always take your batteries out of your mechanical mod and switch them for a freshly charged battery as SOON as you notice a significant drop in vapor! Its the law!
It could also be your Iclear's head. Since the eGo has internal circuitry it may block the iclear from firing one moment and then let it fire the next because the short could be coming and going or the safety circuit in your eGo could simply be malfunctioning (VERY COMMON) I would either test that head or buy some kanthal and silica and rebuild it yourself. Take it apart. There are youtube videos that show you how to rebuild Iclear30s no problem. Good Luck!
So how much experience do you have with mechanical mods? It sounds like you have been using eGo batteries. Ego batteries have internal circuitry that shuts off the eGo battery BEFORE it is overdrained. Mechanical mods have no such circuitry. Even ONE overdrain CAN and WILL do exactly what you are describing right now. I have ruined a couple batteries in my day from one undercharge. Thankfully my mod buttons never melted or my hot springs never collapsed. But the inside of our batteries become more susceptible to problems if we overdrain them in our mechanical mods. The internal heat rises as the internal voltage is lowered, which causes the chemical molecular structures in our batteries to become agitated, and then they can vent or explodeee!
So always take your batteries out of your mechanical mod and switch them for a freshly charged battery as SOON as you notice a significant drop in vapor! Its the law!
It could also be your Iclear's head. Since the eGo has internal circuitry it may block the iclear from firing one moment and then let it fire the next because the short could be coming and going or the safety circuit in your eGo could simply be malfunctioning (VERY COMMON) I would either test that head or buy some kanthal and silica and rebuild it yourself. Take it apart. There are youtube videos that show you how to rebuild Iclear30s no problem. Good Luck!
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Charger won't charge charged battery's. Lol say that 3 times quickly. If the battery was in your mod just for a few then I expect the voltage hasn't dropped low enough to trip the charger on. Most won't charge till 3.9 v.
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Head to any electronics store / retail store, and you can have a cheap Mutimeter for less than 10 or so bux. Best tool you will ever buy with regards to batteries... Do some reading on Lipo's. You won't regret it. They aren't that bad, but they don't respond well to being shorted out. Not saying that going sub ohm will kill them, but like Plumes.91 mentioned, a lot can go on inside one really quickly.
Both PG and VG are relatively non-conductive (or high resistance, same difference) in their pure forms. The question becomes how resistive they are with the nic and flavoring in them.
Ok, I'm about to stick my ohm meter in my liquid. No, really, I'm going to do it...don't try to stop me!
I'm an experimenter on the edge, baby. The freakin' edge.
With my probe meters set as close as I can realistically get them, about a tenth of an inch, I'm measuring more than 2 megaohms (2,000,000) resistance in 5% menthol, 1% cinnamon, 60% VG, 40% PG liquid. Greater than, so at least that--my meter tops at 2 megaohm.
So that's an insulator. Power flow from a 4.2 volt fully charged battery will be less than 2.1 micro-amps, so essentially nothing...and that's the top cap.
Shiny, you are sub ohm vaping and don't even own a multimeter. How can you check your batteries for over discharge?
For time being, until you get multimeter and also do some research to learn about lithium batts, it would not be a bad idea for you to stick with non mechanical mod for now.
You NEED to be able to check the voltage before charging and after charging, if you are using mechanical mod and triple that idea if sub ohm vaping.
For time being, until you get multimeter and also do some research to learn about lithium batts, it would not be a bad idea for you to stick with non mechanical mod for now.
You NEED to be able to check the voltage before charging and after charging, if you are using mechanical mod and triple that idea if sub ohm vaping.
Cool. So basically eLiquid is known as a dielectric fluid. This is good. No shorts because of fluid leakage. Thanks, I feel better now when I remove a tank and there is juice on top of the connector terminal.
I thinks MorpheusPA probably hit the nail on the head with the intermittent short depending on how you hold the device, but Racehorse is def. right about checking and checking and checking. Strange things can happen when there are threads and electrical connections flowing through the connection. I am a machinist, ask me how I know... lol
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yes i understand that i do need a multimeter. but BOTH batteries? within 10 minutes of each other? Quality brand name batteries? I really dont think it was the batteries. How can i tell if my mod is fine? More specifically the spring? would i be able to tell if it dropped? it looks the same... i think?
With a multi meter. Looking for shorts between the positive pin and anywhere on the negative side. Your batteries could have been fine and not be the problem. But there is a problem. And I would bet it's the iclear and without a multimeter you cannot find out. So stop using it and get a multi meter.
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What's that definition of insanity? Oh yeah - Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result.
You blew one battery with a combination of a mech and a topper. And having no proper equipment to check any of it you put a second battery in and... the same thing happened. A hard short can destroy a battery in under 5 seconds. How long did it take you to get the base off your K101 and get the battery out? Anyone use a mech mod and doing... anything with it - especially sub ohm - needs a DMM.
Point of the obvious: Is the plastic insulator still in place on the spring in the base of the Kamry?
it didnt take me any longer than normal to get the battery out.. but it did feel kinda weird like almost heard the battery trip or something. But i took it out pretty fast. like i said the mod button got hot instantaneously. And yes the plastic is still on the spring
This 10 times. You really should not be doing sub-ohm coils without a digital multimeter. You need it to not only measure your coil's resistance, but you can use it to check your battery's voltage coming out of the mod and off the charger, and also use it to find shorts in the mod.Do you have a vape shop locally where you could take your mod, RBA, batteries, and iClear to have an experienced vaper look over your setup to help diagnose a short? There definitely is a short in your setup, but it's difficult for us to troubleshoot where the problem is over the internet.
This is why I never recommend mechanical mods, rebuildables, and especially sub-ohm vaping for novices. Sorry, I don't care how long you may have been vaping previously, but once you step into the realm of the above, you're a noobie again unless you've researched and done your homework.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
DEEPER UNDERSTANDING OF MOD BATTERIES
INFORMATION RESOURCES FOR YOUR FIRST RBA
HOW TO USE YOUR MULTIMETER
VIDEO ON HOW TO USE YOUR MULTIMETER
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No meter,didn't know whether his batteries are protected or high drain imr...
Prime example of what everyone is preaching about. You sir need to do some homework..
Don't take this offensive, but you shouldn't be playing with sub ohm setups.
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Prime example of what everyone is preaching about. You sir need to do some homework..
Don't take this offensive, but you shouldn't be playing with sub ohm setups.
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Leave the Sony IMR in your charger overnite. I have bought several batteries back from an overdischarged state by doing just that. Most chargers will provide a low voltage charge until they are charged up enough to use the full charging current. Your Iclear has a short, maybe the center post is wobbly and hitting the sides. If you can't fix it, just replace the head, but don't kee[ using it.
I do not recommend the above for a couple of reasons:
It's never recommended to charge batteries while not being attended or being to observe them during the charging process. Statistically, most reported battery incidents occur during charging. You are not really alert and observing batteries while they are charging overnight. Then consider that these batteries in question may now be defected and more likely to have "an incident".
Not all chargers can bring back over-discharged batteries. If the OP has one of the cheapo chargers it will not the intelligence circuitry to recognize an over-discharged battery and thereby use the special algorhythms needed to bring them back to life.
The batteries spoken about here may well be damaged beyond repair. The only way to possibly know is to measure the voltage with a digital multimeter. Even then, its still impossible to know if internal damage has rendered the batteries as useless and possibly dangerous to put into any charger.
Potentially damaged batteries should be visually monitored during the entire charging process in case there is an issue. There's a potential for a fire or an explosion.
The wiser decision may well be to dispose of the batteries and purchase new ones. Be aware though that until the short is found, the new batteries will likely suffer the same fate.
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For the mod button to get insta-hot, two things have to happen:
1) Low ohms at the atty connector....like a short at the connector, or very low ohms.
AND
2) A connection on the negative side of the battery....shorted button.
If (1) didn't happen and (2) did happen....it would be "on" all the time, but within expected ohm range....aka frying a coil. But the battery shouldn't get too hot unless the coil is stupid-low ohms.
If (2) didn't happen at all, there would be no circuit...the negative side of the battery would be disconnected.
So we know that there's a problem at the button side...or it somehow connected to battery negative without pressing the button or the button is stuck active. Make sure the wrapping on the battery is intact...not exposed on the sides.
1) Low ohms at the atty connector....like a short at the connector, or very low ohms.
AND
2) A connection on the negative side of the battery....shorted button.
If (1) didn't happen and (2) did happen....it would be "on" all the time, but within expected ohm range....aka frying a coil. But the battery shouldn't get too hot unless the coil is stupid-low ohms.
If (2) didn't happen at all, there would be no circuit...the negative side of the battery would be disconnected.
So we know that there's a problem at the button side...or it somehow connected to battery negative without pressing the button or the button is stuck active. Make sure the wrapping on the battery is intact...not exposed on the sides.
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