What temp does the usb 5 volt passthrough MOD get?

[susden]

So I'm am about to make my first mod. I bought the 274-1582 Coaxial Power Jack from Radio Shack, I have a nice button that switches on and off, a tiny blue light that I jacked from my one of my boys' secret decoder light, a soldering kit, and I have the usb. I'm brainstorming on the case and was thinking on making it with polymer clay. I did a search and only got one hit, but it looked like the person made a box mod and then put the clay over it. I was thinking about just using the polymer clay piece as the case, but was wondering how hot does the usb 5 V gets when vaping continuously. My concern is that if it did get very hot, would it burn the polymer clay? I usually bake my pieces at about 300 degrees. I can't imagine that it would get that hot, but I wanted to check in with you all, to get your opinions.

Also, am I missing anything as far as the supplies are concerned?

Thanks!!!

 

[AriM]

that really depends on a massive collection of variables. the atty coil itself can reach 600-700 deg. so it depends on your insulation, and at what point you are taking a temp measurement. if you are in doubt and trying a first mod, it's best to try something that has been done before, and is known to work. it's really easy to over think your design and wind up with something that is great on paper, but never comes together in the real world.

also, be sure to test your devices amp draw with a 5v source before you plug it into your computer. some usb jacks can't take a high amp draw, and you could wind up burning out the usb port (or worse). this is a good idea for ANY usb based pass through, that does not have a current regulation inline with the circuit.

if you are having doubts about the polymer clay, just take a small piece of it and hit it with a lighter or torch....if it begins to smoke or let off any fumes....it's a safe bet to say you probably want to try something else....

also you want to make sure that your wiring is safe at an current draw of at least 2-3 amps....use at least 20-ga stranded copper or 22-ga solid core....also I prefer a teflon/ptfe jacket on my lead wire, as PVC will melt at much lower temperatures. If you are really worried about it, you can use nomex jacketing as an insulator....

oh and absolutely DO NOT use solder with lead in it....I use silver solder (rosin core) only....the chances of lead poisoning from small amounts of solder are virtually nothing, but better safe than sorry....and especially if you have children around (google lead poisoning if you are concerned, it is a very real danger to children)

good luck with your mod....I hope some of this information helps you out

 

[Java_Az]

My atomizer on the outside never gets more then 110 degrees so i think your safe. Might need a resistor for the LED you stole( dont worry i wont tell anyone) . Other then that your USB source should have at least a 2 amp rating for 5 volts. It is not advisable to vape off computer USB ports it puts a heavy strain on the traces of the motherboard. Powered USB hubs or Wall adapters are the way to go.

 

[susden]

Great advice guys!!! It looks like I need to make another trip this morning to RS. I want to exchange my cheapie $7 solder, for the butane one. It looks so cool, and easier to use without being stuck in one place. I should pick up a multimeter after all. I was debating to get one, but I think in the long run will be good to have in general.

@Java_Az Do I just need one resistor for the LED? I don't need one for the pushbutton, correct? My button is SPSD. Would you recommend the momentary button instead? I also have a really small momentary button that I can use, as the SPSD is slightly large. Is the LED just mostly for novelty purposes? I may not put an LED after all. Why add extra parts, when I don't need it?

Since discovering modding, I am looking at all the junky toys that my kids have in a different light!

 

[AriM]

stay away from butane soldering irons.....they have very inconsistent temperature ranges.....they are best for quick on site fixes and you will get much more long term satisfaction (and better solder joints) from a decent variable soldering station (I personally like the HAKKO stations)....also butane is expensive, and you will be waiting for the iron to heat up between each solder joint (pain in the ...).....the same goes for battery powered irons, they just don't work well......

for the led you should use a 47k resistor (really depends on a few things, but 47k is a safe bet).....

SPSD is the type of switch circuit (spsd is a one tap switch)....doesn't have much to do with it being momentary or not (you should def be using a momentary switch with a 1.5 amp rating).....

the led is not necessary, but it can be helpful to diagnose problems....for example, if the led lights up, but no vape comes out....then it's probably the atty.....

good luck......