Whats the difference between these mech mods?

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PuffADay

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Jan 20, 2015
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Why is it some mech mods go for 30 and some go for 300 (not including clones in this discussion)
Isn't a mech mod just you complete a circuit and you get a vape?
I wanna know if theres a serious difference between the vapes you get and what the point of putting in that much money for a metal tube is?

Not meaning to offend any of the mech mod junkies I just don't get the hype behind these mods and why there is so much science behind it.
 

readeuler

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It's all (hopefully) about production. Have you ever noticed that with (lower end) clothes, some are your size, and some aren't, even if they have the same measurements? Some jeans get cut with 50 in a stack, so the bottom (or top, I forget) of the stack is larger than the other side; it's cheaper to cut a bunch at once, so the consistency isn't there. The more expensive stuff gets cut in stacks of 5 or 10 (or 1!) and are dead-on, every time.

Same with mods and atomizers: I've heard that the 510 on a nice authentic tends to be exactly right, while clones/mass mfg tend to be a bit off, since the same tap (or die, I don't know what's what!) is used on mod/addy after mod/atty, and there isn't consistency; all of the threads aren't exactly right.

At least, that's what I'm starting to believe, I'm not in the manufacturing business :)
 

State O' Flux

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Welcome to ECF, Puff...

I guess I can toss in my two cents, if I can get change back... yes? :closedeyes:

The technical aspects are battery knowledge and safety, ohm's law and basic DC electrical comprehension. As far as mechs go, the common features one typically looks for are:

  • A desirable design. (subject to individual tastes)
  • Quality of fit, finish and materials. (materials would be, to name a few... SS, brass, copper, titanium, carbon fiber and Kevlar)
  • Excellent conductivity with less than one tenth of one percent voltage drop. (more can be tolerated... but not with low sub-ohm resistance)
  • A smooth, short button travel.
  • From a personal point of view, the mech should be as short as possible for the battery used... and if available, a recessed and concave button with no lock ring. If it must have a lock ring, less than 1/2 smooth turn from lock to unlock with 1mm button throw maximum. I prefer springs to magnets... springs can be tuned, magnets, not so much.
Some mechs that have some, but not all the above elements can be improved upon, or corrected fairly easily. With some however, you're pretty much hosed... unless you can return it, keep it for spare parts, or afford to toss it in the trash.

Are there $30 mechs that check all the boxes? Certainly. Are some authentics far overpriced, usually due to the method of manufacture, limited quantity or materials? Abso-freakin'-lutely. ;)

In the end, they are just tubes and caps. A battery holder with a normally open circuit. What they are worth, is what we perceive they are worth, and willing to pay for.
 
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Rat2chat2

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State O' Flux. Ditto for me.
 
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