Where oh where to go from here?

[vjc0628]

I have contemplated rebuilding my evod and pt coils. I've watched a video or two on it. Doesn't seem TOO hard, but I agree that's a good place to start And yes my itaste reads ohms.

its easier to build an Igo or a kayfun then an evod and both work better

they are a great place to start

gennies are a pain and only some flavs work well with SS mesh
I am liking the kraken with cotton but would not suggest that to start

 

[Contained]

I've been loving the nautilus, best off the shelf product I've found thus far. Past that, I have to mirror the advice to attempt rebuilding evods and protanks before getting into RBA's. It's a bit more complicated, but the investment is a lot smaller and if you can rebuild those, you can rebuild an RBA easily.

 

[vjc0628]

I just watched Rip Trippers vid on rebuilding a protank head and yeah Brett was right, pulled out a blow torch and everything LOL. Other than that it didn't put me off too much, it can't hurt to try a couple times right?

That's the second time today I've heard about the Aspire Nautilus. May just have to pick one up for the heck of it.

it looks more complicated then it is in practice after 1 successful build you will have all the confidence you need

 

[Gato del Jugo]

At your stage, I'd work on getting a more serious APV 1st.. variable wattage/variable voltage... Unless you go the MVP 2 route or something, you'll have to pick up some rechargeable batteries (like AW brand) & a decent charger.. not really a big & expensive hassle, though


I have Sigelei Zmax V3, which is okay, will run you like $50.. but does have some quality/build issues.. Last month I also stepped it up with my 1st ProVari, which yeah, can run you $160-$210.. but totally worth it... huge difference, IMO. Made in the USA, and designed & built to military specifications... Sigelei in one hand, ProVari in the other.. Sigelei feels like a cheap toy, not sure how long it's going to last.. Meanwhile, a ProVari can last years, this thing is solid quality stuff


Still exploring toppers, myself.. but I think a good APV should come first for anybody

 

[vjc0628]

Orrrr maybe I'll just get a MVP 2 or try ibtanked or rba's aaaand skip the mech world and call it a day LOL

no need to get a mech if you keep over 1.3 ohm.s

4 wraps 30 gage kanthal with doubled over 2 or 3 mm wick gets you 1.5 ohms

 

[cramptholomew]

its easier to build an Igo or a kayfun then an evod and both work better

they are a great place to start

gennies are a pain and only some flavs work well with SS mesh
I am liking the kraken with cotton but would not suggest that to start

I agree with everything you said, except that while it IS easier to build an RDA/RBA, building Protank coils would provide the chops to build just about anything. It would also allow for the use of existing devices/batteries without an expensive upstart fee (new batteries/PV/toppers/charger/etc.). Besides, the vape from a rebuilt Kanger coil head is DRASTICALLY improved over a stock one. Also, I'd skip the silica wick, since it's harder to build on, especially if you're building microcoils (which everyone should be!), and go with cotton.

Jrenae, you don't need a torch to anneal the kanthal wire. A simple Bic will suffice...

 

[iamzg]

I'd get a regulated mod before jumping into a mech. Try an RDA first too cause they're much easier to learn on IMHO

 

[jrenae4]

I agree with everything you said, except that while it IS easier to build an RDA/RBA, building Protank coils would provide the chops to build just about anything. It would also allow for the use of existing devices/batteries without an expensive upstart fee (new batteries/PV/toppers/charger/etc.). Besides, the vape from a rebuilt Kanger coil head is DRASTICALLY improved over a stock one. Also, I'd skip the silica wick, since it's harder to build on, especially if you're building microcoils (which everyone should be!), and go with cotton.

Jrenae, you don't need a torch to anneal the kanthal wire. A simple Bic will suffice...

Ohh well I definitely have a few bics lying around still.. So how many wraps/what size kanthal to just do an evod? I saw in rips comments his 12 wrap microcoil on 28 g kanthal wouldn't work on say, an itaste vv 3.0 because it "doesn't have enough wattage" for how he was doing it exactly for the big ole mods he has. Maybe even something as simple as rebuilding my heads on my existing equipment could improve things drastically, from what I hear. And like you said relatively low start up cost which is good

 

[cramptholomew]

Ohh well I definitely have a few bics lying around still.. So how many wraps/what size kanthal to just do an evod? I saw in rips comments his 12 wrap microcoil on 28 g kanthal wouldn't work on say, an itaste vv 3.0 because it "doesn't have enough wattage" for how he was doing it exactly for the big ole mods he has. Maybe even something as simple as rebuilding my heads on my existing equipment could improve things drastically, from what I hear. And like you said relatively low start up cost which is good

I would start with 32 and/or 30 gauge Kanthal. It's cheap, so I'd suggest getting some of both: Kanthal A1 Resistance Wire - Lightning Vapes

An 8 or 9 wrap microcoil of 30 gauge on a 1/16th drill bit, or mini screwdriver, will net you around 2.0Ω. A 6 or 7 wrap of 32 gauge will get you to the same place.

The higher the number, the thinner the wire, which takes less power to heat up. So, 32 gauge is actually THINNER than 30 gauge, and has MORE resistance per inch than 30 gauge. That's counterintuitive to what you'd think, but that's the way it is. I'm pretty sure that the stock Kanger heads use either 32 or 34 gauge.

If you end up trying this out, you can PM me if you want and I'll try to help you work out any issues you have.

 

[jrenae4]

I would start with 32 and/or 30 gauge Kanthal. It's cheap, so I'd suggest getting some of both: Kanthal A1 Resistance Wire - Lightning Vapes

An 8 or 9 wrap microcoil of 30 gauge on a 1/16th drill bit, or mini screwdriver, will net you around 2.0Ω. A 6 or 7 wrap of 32 gauge will get you to the same place.

The higher the number, the thinner the wire, which takes less power to heat up. So, 32 gauge is actually THINNER than 30 gauge, and has MORE resistance per inch than 30 gauge. That's counterintuitive to what you'd think, but that's the way it is. I'm pretty sure that the stock Kanger heads use either 32 or 34 gauge.

If you end up trying this out, you can PM me if you want and I'll try to help you work out any issues you have.

Okay thanks, I'm excited to try! I'll get the kanthal and the drill bit. And organic cotton balls right?

 

[cramptholomew]

Okay thanks, I'm excited to try! I'll get the kanthal and the drill bit. And organic cotton balls right?

Yup! That's all you'll need. I use sterile cotton balls, but the organic ones are fine too. I've never boiled them either, like many people do. I guess I just live dangerously.

 

[tj99959]

Right or wrong for you, I can only say what path I took.

I started out with a simple little eGo kit. Then wanted a backup/upgrade, and tried the cheap rout and got a 510-N (big mistake). The eGo's outlasted the 510-N. I then decided I would look for a good PV that would last forever. The Silver Bullet was still the best at that time. Having a PV that would work even if hell froze over allowed me to save up the cash for the nice things. Hell, that old SB even allowed me to save up the cash to upgrade my wife's kitchen without ever exceeding what I had been spending for smokes.

The way I look t it now is I have the Reo, Provari, Nemesis, and on and on, all paid for by buying that PV that would last.

 

[yorkiegirl]

Okay thanks, I'm excited to try! I'll get the kanthal and the drill bit. And organic cotton balls right?

Jrenae I think I might practice rebuilding the protank heads I have here at the house too. I need to get some practice in before my Sophia gets here. I already have 32 g Kanthal wire here. I'm going to go by CVS and pick up some organic cotton balls and I need a 1/16 drill bit too. Good luck!