Wheres my power?

[UkUsa]

Hmmm don't know what to advise. Can you try it on a different computer? It's a long shot but ......

If you are getting 5 volts by testing on the atomizer side of the battery connection when the switch is activated then i'm stumped too

The switch i'm using is a momentary radioshack, think it is .5amp rated, which kinda concerned me but it is working ok for now.

Really don't want to ask the ovious but i'm guessing that you have dripped the atomizer and have a topped off cart.
One last long shot - is there is airflow through the atomizer ?


That's gotta be frustrating.

 

[cekte]

Maybe you have a lame USB power source? If possible try hooking up some batteries to see if that is the problem. I have one usb wall wart whose voltage drops waaay down once the button is pushed to energize the atomizer.

Hmm, Ive thought of that as well. Two different USB plug sources, from several different outlets around, laptop (very warily), and USB powerpack. All to no avail. The multi constantly reads 5v, yet Im not getting anywhere. It does not make sense to me. The only other possible aspects I can think of are: USB cord (new), battery coupling, tact switch (tried a few)?

Help!? Haha. My thanks again.

 

[vslim]

I don't know either, check the contacts with the atomizer very carefully. Can you test the voltage with the button pushed? Be sure to put a drop of juice on the atomizer. Try a bigger switch if you have one, or maybe rig up a wire so you can manually go around the switch. Sorry for your troubles. I had a day sort of like that yesterday, turns out the contact between the the outer shell contact and the shell was open on a Nicowolf-style N-size coaxial jack I was using for a DSE901 att connection.

 

[cekte]

Hmmm don't know what to advise. Can you try it on a different computer? It's a long shot but ......

If you are getting 5 volts by testing on the atomizer side of the battery connection when the switch is activated then i'm stumped too

The switch i'm using is a momentary radioshack, think it is .5amp rated, which kinda concerned me but it is working ok for now.

Really don't want to ask the ovious but i'm guessing that you have dripped the atomizer and have a topped off cart.
One last long shot - is there is airflow through the atomizer ?

That's gotta be frustrating.

LOL. My sentiments exactly.

Tried 3 different atomizers, on all the different sources listed above. Im just feeling dumber as I go

This is saddening. It is a very simple circuit, and I cannot figure out for the life of me what is wrong.

No worries UK, at this point I feel it must be an obvious overlook of some sort. Fully topped carts, two were dripped fresh, one is a JOYE510 so its left with the fresh cart. The airflow should definitely quite adequate.

The most confusing aspects (besides all of it) Is that I do get 5v out of the att coupling end, and I get a few wisps, but nothing to signal proper functioning.

 

[UkUsa]

One last thought, (if you haven't already) you may want to do an ohms test between the inner and outer parts of the battery connection to make sure there is no short there.

Oh one other thing, make sure the threads are clean on both parts of the connection.

Without actually seeing this device in person i'm all outta ideas.

Best of british to ya, hope you figure it out.

 

[eskimoroll]

One last thought, (if you haven't already) you may want to do an ohms test between the inner and outer parts of the battery connection to make sure there is no short there.

Yeah that was what I was thinking as a possibility as well. The first time I tried this mod, I had too much solder on the inside ring of the atomizer which led to a short with the outside ring. The second time I screwed it up, I found a small piece of metal (positive connection), just barely touching the side of the atomizer also shorting out the circuit. Since everything is working, I can only say go over each part of the circuit to see if something might accidentally be touching or if some of the solder points are not as clean as can be.

 

[Charlie Cheese]

Maybe you have too much air flow I have a usb passthru for my penstyle and there is no air going through the passthru at all. if it's not that I can't think of what it could be.

Charlie

 

[smog]

Okay. First off, a HUGE Thank You to everyone who has put in their info, and helped me out. UK, CellM, Vslim, Eskimo, Houdini, etc Thank you! Im almost there

Okay... I fibbed a bit.. I am actually officially stumped.

Tested all connections 100x over, took everything apart, made new clean solders, re-wired to every possible scenario, used perfectly fine atomizers, different switch, even took out the resistor and LED. Nothing works.. At very best im getting tiny wisps, and the atomizer is Barely crackling. Im still getting 5v on the multi.

Its now wired directly from USB, to Tact, to female att connection. Is my tact just not properly rated? Says it can handle 12vdc 50mA rated. What seems to be the problem??

THANK YOU!!

Theres your problem .50mA is not enough current your switch needs to be rated at least 1.5 Amps .

 

[cekte]

Theres your problem .50mA is not enough current your switch needs to be rated at least 1.5 Amps .

Thanks Smog. I don't believe that is it though. Bastage, Madog, and many others have successfully used 50mA tact switches in their mods. I do not understand why mine would not work..

They use similar momentary tactile switches, with the exact same specs.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/5092-modders-soft-touch-tactile-switch.html

 

[kinabaloo]

Hi, is it working yet ?

I suggest getting a 4 X AA baTTERY HOLDER and test with that. then you will know if the USB is current limiting (a few computers might do this and give less current than you need). If not that, perhaps the atomiser is flooded or the juice is not correct. Or that resistor is in fact incorrectly inline with the atomiser.

You could also try resoldering all the connections.

Discoonect the led as a test, it might be partly blown and be drawing a lot of current although not bright, because the 100 ohm resistor is too small (330 ohm is better for a standard led at about 4 volt, although there are special LEDs that dont require a resistor).

Good luck !

 

[smog]

They where lucky .Are you sure they are using a 50mA tact switch. ?
Anyway it's easily enough checked .WITH A GOOD ATOMIZER CONNECTED
just put your multimeter set on volts across the switch contacts and
check what the voltage drop is when switch it's pressed .It should be close to 0 . If not then it is your switch rating thats causing the prob .

 

[cekte]

They where lucky .Are you sure they are using a 50mA tact switch. ?
Anyway it's easily enough checked .WITH A GOOD ATOMIZER CONNECTED
just put your multimeter set on volts across the switch contacts and
check what the voltage drop is when switch it's pressed .It should be close to 0 . If not then it is your switch rating thats causing the prob .

According to the link that Bastage provided and that thread, all the ones he has used were 50mA. He also has a video of himself taking tact's out of a VCR and using those. I have heard of others using those out of a VCR as well as using the specific ones I have from Rad Shack. I cannot imagine that those simple tacts would be rated higher than the Rad Shack ones.

Without the atomizer, wired to the last Correct diagram a few pages back, the multi reads 3.64 set at 20v. With a Good atomizer read drops to 0.64 . Still isn't working.

I really do appreciate the help! I really do not understand what I am missing here...

 

[smog]

Cekte i really have no idea what you must be doing there .It's really very very simple .
First Just unsolder your resistor so that your led is disconnected .Now all you have is a
battery-a switch in series -vaporizer heating element . NOW when the switch is pressed the voltage drop accross the switch contacts should be close to 0 (anything greater is power lost in the switch.

(When the vaporizer element is not connected BTW you have no circuit so the voltage drop across the switch will be zero so i dont know where you got your 3.64 volts you reffered to above.)

 

[cekte]

Cekte i really have no idea what you must be doing there .It's really very very simple .
First Just unsolder your resistor so that your led is disconnected .Now all you have is a
battery-a switch in series -vaporizer heating element . NOW when the switch is pressed the voltage drop accross the switch contacts should be close to 0 (anything greater is power lost in the switch.

(When the vaporizer element is not connected BTW you have no circuit so the voltage drop across the switch will be zero so i dont know where you got your 3.64 volts you reffered to above.)

I do not mean to be rude Smog, but I have already done just that, as my previous posts describe. I have wired it so it is simply just that (leads come in, negative straight to outer atomizer coupling, positive to switch, positive out switch to middle pole of att), and it does NOT work still.

I also do not understand what I am doing wrong Smog, but it obviously is Not that simple, otherwise it would be functioning as it should be.

BTW I was not mentioning a drop without atomizer, I was saying what it read flat out when the terminals were touched and the switch was pressed. The multi reads the circuit when leads are touched, does it not??

I got the read from the Multi, which reads voltage... When it is set to 20v DCV, That is what it read..

 

[smog]

I'm sorry if I was being rude before .I wasn't meaning to be .
When i said measure Voltage drop ACROSS switch i meant each of your probes one each side of the switch contacts (in parallel) . Not between the switch output and ground .

 

[cekte]

I'm sorry if I was being rude before .I wasn't meaning to be .
When i said measure Voltage drop ACROSS switch i meant each of your probes one each side of the switch contacts (in parallel) . Not between the switch output and ground .

No worries, My apologies as well.

I seem to be getting 0.00 if I am testing on DCV across the switch while engaged w/atomizer attached. It doesn't seem like any is lost in the switch?

Ive wired it back to LED and resistor in parallel with switch. Here are pics. Perhaps these may help someone. It seems to me that everything is wired correctly. There are no shorts and no over solders of any problem. Thank you!

EDIT: It is still non-functional...

 

[smog]

Ok this is my last try .Are you sure your not doin this on purpose Cekte .
Just looking at your pictures I can see Your all wired up wrong . Look here at post 2 this is the correct way to wire it .
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/7849-wheres-my-power.html#post120920

 

[UkUsa]

Cekte - here's an idea, you could try attaching the atmoizer direct to the usb cable. Since there is no circuit till the atomizer is screwed on this will give you a chance to check that out. The atomizer should heat up real quick. Be ready to disconnect the usb or unscrew the atomizer. Don't want to overheat that baby too much.

Then attach the switch on the positive feed and try again.

My first mod was just a usb cable, an auto toggle swtich and a battery connection all taped together - looked ugly but worked awesome.

 

[cekte]

Ok this is my last try .Are you sure your not doin this on purpose Cekte .
Just looking at your pictures I can see Your all wired up wrong . Look here at post 2 this is the correct way to wire it .
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/7849-wheres-my-power.html#post120920

My apologies Smog, I was referencing a post made after that one, claiming it was the 'correct' diagram. When in fact it was the Diagram in post #2 by UKUSA, which was truly correct.

I had wired it to that previously as my posts described,but the lights went dim, and nothing worked. However ironically, all my power sources were found to not be supplying enough power. Upon receiving a new APC, I used it with the diagram in post #2, which produces the desired outcome. My thanks once again for the help.

Cheers.

 

[cekte]

Cekte - here's an idea, you could try attaching the atmoizer direct to the usb cable. Since there is no circuit till the atomizer is screwed on this will give you a chance to check that out. The atomizer should heat up real quick. Be ready to disconnect the usb or unscrew the atomizer. Don't want to overheat that baby too much.

Then attach the switch on the positive feed and try again.

My first mod was just a usb cable, an auto toggle swtich and a battery connection all taped together - looked ugly but worked awesome.

I finally got it with your original diagram, and a different power source. My apologies for the confusion. It was tested on many sources, which were all found to be insufficient, including my computer. Thank you very much UkUsa! This mod is vaping now..!

Cheers, Happy Modding!