Which battery??
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That's what I did.
like I said everywhere you go you're bound to run into a few unpleasant people, no reason to lump everyone into the unpleasant category.
like I said everywhere you go you're bound to run into a few unpleasant people, no reason to lump everyone into the unpleasant category.
No additional comments on this, if you don't understand what I'm saying regarding doing the the reading first before asking questions explicitly answered in the thread you're posting in, there's not much more to say
I think it's simple as this.... if you know your ohms law and did the math you should have the answer. Any how most likely most battery are not lower than 20A so if you run at on 0.5ohm I don't see any problem on it. But if you try to so 0.2ohm or lower yes you do need to study which batteries are right for you[emoji6]
With vw devices resistance doesn't matter though. Amp draw is calculated from wattage and battery charge level (lower charge = higher amp draw).
Amps = watts / device cut-off voltage
E.g. 60w / 3v = 20 amps
This calculation doesn't take into account device efficiency, which will introduce some additional amp draw.
So, with a 20 amp battery 60w (and potentially a bit more) is safe. With a dual battery mod 120w is safe.
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I'll add to what Topwater Elvis said about over-rated battery specs.
The battery industry is extremely competitive, despite the fact that only a few companies actually make their own cells.
LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, and Sony make their own cells. Individual cells are not created equally, so they go through a quality control process by the manufacturer. These companies save the top tier cells for themselves, and sell the second/third tier cells to other companies to be re-wrapped under another brand name.
Companies like Efest, Imren, and many others purchase the second/third tier cells, re-wrap them with their own brand name, and often advertise over-rated specification (amps, mah) to appear more competitive than the manufacturers who originally made them. I ask, why pay more for a pretty wrapper with false specifications?
This from Beginner's Guide to Lithium Batteries:
The battery industry is extremely competitive, despite the fact that only a few companies actually make their own cells.
LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, and Sony make their own cells. Individual cells are not created equally, so they go through a quality control process by the manufacturer. These companies save the top tier cells for themselves, and sell the second/third tier cells to other companies to be re-wrapped under another brand name.
Companies like Efest, Imren, and many others purchase the second/third tier cells, re-wrap them with their own brand name, and often advertise over-rated specification (amps, mah) to appear more competitive than the manufacturers who originally made them. I ask, why pay more for a pretty wrapper with false specifications?
This from Beginner's Guide to Lithium Batteries:
"IMREN (formerly MNKE)- Top 10% are available to consumers, their top 5% are reserved for car companies only. Since IREN bought out MNKE can no longer call them a top cell manufacturer. Not because they are no longer making good batteries, but because the bare cells sold to the public are grossly over inflated when it comes to their amp ratings.
"Recently companies are putting the burst amperage limit or active cooling limits on their batteries and selling them as such. Sony is an exception. The VCT4/5 in the spec sheet both state that they require active cooling for anything over 20A. They were never meant for vapers, and did not advertise them as such. It was vaping companies that labeled them 30A cells. Efest and IMREN are two of the worst perpetrators of this practice. There is no cell on the market rated for 2000mAh capacity or above that can do above 20 amps continuous without active cooling. Burst ratings are just that, they can do a high amperage for 2-5 seconds, but more than that you begin to damage the cells. You want to run batteries at their continuous rate, never for their burst. This is the danger of sub-ohming and not knowing the ins and outs of your batteries."
"Recently companies are putting the burst amperage limit or active cooling limits on their batteries and selling them as such. Sony is an exception. The VCT4/5 in the spec sheet both state that they require active cooling for anything over 20A. They were never meant for vapers, and did not advertise them as such. It was vaping companies that labeled them 30A cells. Efest and IMREN are two of the worst perpetrators of this practice. There is no cell on the market rated for 2000mAh capacity or above that can do above 20 amps continuous without active cooling. Burst ratings are just that, they can do a high amperage for 2-5 seconds, but more than that you begin to damage the cells. You want to run batteries at their continuous rate, never for their burst. This is the danger of sub-ohming and not knowing the ins and outs of your batteries."
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Thanks for the info...looks like I'll be sticking with either LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, or Sony.
I have the mini ( dont know whats different with the nano) but I use samsung 25r 18650 3.7v 2500mah an the charge usually last a day
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This statement is false. There are scores of 18650 batteries with 10 amps CDR or less. Making blanket statements as above allows a false sense of security to consumers who may not know any better. Apparantly you don't either.
AW (IMR)18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24Amp CDR
18650 3000mah 20Amp CDR (new IMR/hybrid)
18650 2200mah 20Amp CDR (new IMR/hybrid)
LG (IMR/Hybrid)
18650HE2 2500 mah 20Amp CDR
18650HE4 2500mah 20Amp CDR
18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
18650HB6 1500mah 30A CDR
MNKE (IMR)
18650 1500mah 20Amp CDR
Panasonic or Orbtronic (IMR/Hybrid)
CGR18650CH 2250mAh 10A CDR
NCR18650BD 3200mAh 10A CDR
NCR18650PF (LiNiCOMnO2) 2900mAh 10A CDR
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A CDR
Orbtronic 18650 3500mAh 10A CDR
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 2000mAh 22A CDR
Orbtronic 18650 2500mAh 21A CDR
Orbtronic 18650 SX30 2100mAh 30A (*tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
* Note that the Panasonic/Orbtronic 18650A (3200 mah) and 18650B (3400 mah)
have less than 7 amp CDR and are not recommended for use in today's modern APV's.
These were designed to be used for only low drain applications like flashlights.
Samsung (IMR/hybrid) (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-30Q 3000mah 15A CDR
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A CDR
INR18650-25R 2500mAh 20A CDR
Sony (IMR/hybrid)
18650VTC4 2100mAh 30A CDR
18650VTC5 2600mAh 30A (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
Efest (IMR)
18650 2250mAh 10A CDR
18650 2000mAh 10A CDR
18650 1600mAh 30A CDR
Efest (IMR/hybrid)
purple 18650 2800mAh "38A" (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
purple 18650 2500mAh "35A" (*rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp CDR)
purple 18650 2100mAh 30A (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
purple 18650 2100 mah "38 Amp" (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
And this is not even a complete list of 18650 lithium IMR batteries available on the market.
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