i did and it didnt help. infact that made it worse ._.
the orings just become very slippery and get's pushed into the glass when tightened.
i got it to work again by gently and barely tightening it after taking it apart (3rd time today) AFTER blow drying all the pieces. if there was a groove for the flat o-rings to go into, this wouldn't be a problem but since there isn't tightening it to the point where it won't leak at all is impossible.
i need really squishy o-rings that hold their shape. and also to stay on base with the thread... and my previous post i found this video:
the guy is working with silencers, but it's stainless steel none the less. Since i can't find a mod that fits what i want for my AL-1 (the titan would be close to perfect if i can get magnets instead of a spring), this is probably what i'm going to do to my magneto's telescopic tubing and the actual switch so it has a Nemesis Celeste look to it. my only concern is how will i avoid the threading, cause this is a form of oxidation. i'll end up breaking connection. infact, does anyone know if this process with totally make the stainless steel non-conductive? cause if so, back to the drawing board.
also, what ever mech you have, i recommend getting a second 510 connection top piece for it, due to the fact it's aluminum, i can feel the dethreading already happening. so my AL one goes into the back burner until i get a 2nd magneto top cap. Permanent piece on that connection... infact i might just do that for all my RTA's since they all have different size post lol