Which SPRING??

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MAlzado

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I got a GGTS W/ brass center tube and the spring has collapsed. (The one that contacts the negative end of the battery.)
I don't know which one to order on Bruce's site.
THIS one appears to be cone shaped and my spring is straight. I need to order a few of em I guess. I don't want to get the wrong ones.

Can somebody link me to the correct spring?
Thanks.

(PS... Yes, I see what caused it. I'll have to try to be more careful screwing it together.)
 

fright88

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That looks a lot like an old style GGTS battery spring however that is the spring I ordered last time I collapsed my spring and I got the new style. I think some of the pictures on the COV website are a little outdated.

You will notice if you click on GG products the first picture of a UFS still shows the V1 but the picture with the description has been changed.
 

fright88

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Can you enlighten me on how this happens, so I don't repeat? Over tightening?

Battery failure can cause it but normally it is caused by a short. Overtightening can cause a short and some attys or cartos are bad from the get go but my personal experience is that doesn't happen often.

As for overtightening there are a few good methods.
1 I use the shake method I tighten untill I stop hearing the battery rattle around inside the tube.
2 Tighten by feel I use to use this method and it workd for me but I have known some people that don't feel the spring resistance as well.
3 The hiss method. Hold the button down and tighten only untill you hear the atty or carto hiss.

Also you can put o rings around the telescope to prevent overtightening and help with grip. I just ordered a bunch and will be trying this soon. O rings I believe will also limit the bottom tube wobble although I can't confirm untill I try it.

The one time I collapsed a spring was on my iAtty I was trying to vape at 6v and it turned out my 2 coil ends touched on accident.
 

Major

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There is a video that shows this Mal but I am having the devil of a time finding it. As soon as I do, I will post it in the stickied Video Intrustional thread.

In the mean time, with the connector assembly removed from the collection tank, take a 10mm socket and unscrew/remove contact pin/insulator cap assembly from the bottom of the connector main body.

Using the same 10mm socket to stabilize the nut, use a pair of rubber gloves or wrap the delrin insulator cap with a rubber band. It may be a bit of a struggle first time off but unscrew the insulator cap from the connector pin/nut assembly.

You should see the 2mm x 1mm O-rings or their remnants on the pin shaft or equally as likely, in the inside of the insulator cup. Lube up the replacements and put them on the pins shaft, sliding them all the way to the bottom nearest the retaining nut.

Reseat the insulator cap using hand strength and then the entire assembly back into the connector base. Using the 10mm socket, hand tighten the assembly back. Other than making sure you haven't left any pieces of the old O-rings floating around, that's about as quick and direct as you can get.

Again, I will locate the video though and add it to the thread but this should get you set in the mean time. I might also add the procedure is the same for both the 2011 and SS GGTS and both v1 and v2 of the UFS. The only extra in the UFS is a 4mm O-ring that goes between the flat bottom of the connector pin and the retaining nut.

Other than that, the procedure is the same. :)
 
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Major

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Thanks Fright. That one will do for as you point out and I mentioned, the additional O-ring between the head of the pin and the nut is the only differential.

Edit: That video is not the one I was looking for. Unless I have destroyed the last few living brain cells I had left, there is one showing the 2011 version of the GGTS. Not sure about everyone elses experiences but I rarely (1 in 10 times maybe) have the insulator cap remain in the connector body proper when the nut is unthreaded as it does on that video.

Of course it is on an earlier version of the GGTS so maybe that accounts for the difference. I do thank you for posting that link! :)
 
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fright88

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Thanks Fright. That one will do for as you point out and I mentioned, the additional O-ring between the head of the pin and the nut is the only differential.

Edit: That video is not the one I was looking for. Unless I have destroyed the last few living brain cells I had left, there is one showing the 2011 version of the GGTS. Not sure about everyone elses experiences but I rarely (1 in 10 times maybe) have the insulator cap remain in the connector body proper when the nut is unthreaded as it does on that video.

Of course it is on an earlier version of the GGTS so maybe that accounts for the difference. I do thank you for posting that link! :)

Not a problem. I couldn't dig up any newer style videos but I thought since the principal is very similar it might help. I mean you still have the pin a threaded nut 2 o rings and the derlin piece. The main differences would be with the UFS you put the big o ring on before the threaded nut and the derlin didn't come out in that video. Although I think with how much this issue has popped up reciently it might not jurt if someone made a video for this.
 
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