Which VW mods have RMS ?

[^Top-Shelf^]

Think all the bases have been covered for PWM, Mean, & RMS so now all I need to do is recommend the New Segelei 20w! It uses a chip that has been copied from the dna 20. It can be had for $120 has all the options and more your looking for and the tube style. Do a google search and YouTube search on it. It really is a pretty impressive new device. Produces a flat wave signal unlike the 33.3 hertz chip.


I believe your zmax tubes are interchangeable with this as well, and the battery metering features on this are pretty sweet cause it provides a real time display of what is going on.
Also believed to be upgradable via software in the future for 30watts!

 

[VapingTurtle]

...

Just for the record, there is almost NO correct information in that post. Ignore it.

 

[VapinSweetZ]

Just for the record, there is almost NO correct information in that post. Ignore it.

Ok now I'm more confused and less trusty, lol
Do you know on any good article/blog posts/youtube videos that have correct information to teach me the (not-so) basics of APV ?
I do want to understand better, but as you can see some forum posts are very knowledgeable and some disagrees with them completely, so it's hard for me to learn the information that way...

Also, you guys convinced me to wait with my order until I experience with the MVP in real life, I'll go to a B&M this weekend to play with it before I'm making a decision.
I don't like the idea of a "box" design or an integrated battery, but if so many people recommend on it, at least I need to give it a try

BTW, the 20w isn't available almost anywhere, and it's anyway above my budget right now.
And PB's review on the SID looks awesome, the test results looks amazing, so I can't understand why none of you comment about this mod in this 3-page thread... the price is great, the design is decent, and the reviews are pretty good...
But the SVD does looks great IMO, but I'm not experienced enough to know if it's a good choice compare to its competitors or not, so I'm still waiting for your opinions

 

[TheAmazingDave]

Uhhhhh.... I think your description of PWM is half correct.
Pulse width modulation is the, for lack of better terms, the modulation of the pulse width. Meaning that the duration of the pulse is changed not the frequency it is pulsed at.
Your contradicting yourself when you say that "Lowering the number of pulses in a cycle lowers the voltage" and then say that "MVP (actually not the MVP) and a lot of others pulse at 33.3 Hz. The VTR and possibly other higher-end APVs pulse ~48 Hz." because if they change there pulse rate then there wouldn't be a definite 33.3Hz pulse rate, it would change to accommodate your power setting right?


What PWM is actually controlling is how long the pulse stays on (duty cycle) at the set 33.3 Hz or what ever frequency. For example if you have a VV/VW device that regulates output with PWM, with ranges from 3.0 volts to 6.0 volts very common limits, and you have it set on VV at a low setting like 3.5 volts, it will pulse at 6.0 volts, the max output, but the amount of time that the pulse stays at 6.0 volts (duty cycle) will be very short to give a average of 3.5 volts. Then the higher you set the voltage the longer the pulse will stay on giving a higher average voltage until you have it set at the max 6.0 volts where there will be no PWM but just a constant 6.o volts.

In simple terms the APV is putting out its max output all the time but is pulsing it at a specific frequency and changing how long that pulse lasts to give the average voltage you set.

Not to hijack the thread but just thought i should throw that out there


BTW I just got a Kayfun and put it on m VTR of course with a modification

You're absolutely correct. I was trying to dumb it down a bit, but ended up describing it incorrectly.

The pulse rate does remain constant, the voltage variation comes from the on/off duration of the pulse.

 

[VapingTurtle]

Ok now I'm more confused and less trusty, lol

Just about all of the info in this thread has been accurate. Just that one post was full of inaccuracies.

It's all been covered.

PWM is a method of voltage regulation. I believe ALL VV/VW mods now use PWM, except for the BuzzPro, IPro, and a few homemade boxes, which are linear regulators. (Don't even think about what that is, SweetZ. )

Mean and RMS are both statistical methods of approximating the equivalent DC voltage of a wave or pulse train. RMS is an enormously more accurate approximation. (For example, if we measured your AC house wiring in mean, the voltage would be 0. )

 

[EBates]

Over a recent visit to my sister-in-law's she decided to buy a SID. It worked fine initially, but after a short time began missing hits and shuting down. I fumbled with it a couple of times and got it working again. It continued acting up until later she decided she'd had enough of the SID.
The next day we were back at the vape shop to swap it for another one. The second SID acted just like the first. I was not able to determine what was going on with either of the two SIDs.
We finally went back to the vape shop and traded the SID for a VTR and lived happily ever after.
The good part about the SID experience is, I learned that I did not want one.
Your Results May Vary

 

[twgbonehead]

I do second the SVD as a choice if you definitely want a tube mod.

I know this has been covered, but perhaps a slightly different technical description would help.

Suppose you are trying to heat up a piece of wire with a cigarette lighter. You're going to "flick" the lighter once per second, but you get to decide how long to hold the button down (varying from a very small time, to nearly 1 second) each time you flick. If you do a very short "flick" every second, the wire won't heat up very fast or very much. If you hold it down for most of the second, the wire will heat up much more rapidly. The rate at which you're flicking the bic is a constant, 1 Hz or once per second. But the duration of each flick is variable, and therefore the heat going into the wire is variable.

PWM is the same idea, except with voltage instead of flame, and at a much faster rate. If the voltage is on for a very small part of each cycle, it delivers a low power. If the voltage is on for most of each cycle, it delivers a higher power.

To understand why RMS is the "correct" view of voltage, consider one of the equations for power: P = V*V/R. If the voltage is DC, this is easy to understand. But what if the voltage isn't constant (as with AC power, or with a PWM signal). In this case, the correct value of V to use is the RMS voltage. Using Vrms will provide the correct answer regardless of the shape of the waveform.

The power coming into your house might be rated at 110V, 120V, 220V, or some other similar value. But this voltage is a sine wave. If you have 120V power and you looked at your house voltage on a scope, you would see it go up to 170 volts, then go back (through 0 volts) and go negative to -170 volts. The 120 Volts number is the RMS value.

But if you want to figure out the resistance of a 100-watt lightbulb (when hot) you would use the RMS value: 100 = (120*120)/R Or about 144 ohms. Using the mean voltage (or the peak voltage or any other voltage) would give you the wrong answer.

Hope this helps!

(Edit) If you try to measure the resistance of a 100W light bulb using your multimeter, you will see a resistance value much less than 144 ohms. The resistance of the filament goes up substantially when it gets hot and starts making light.

 

[Chakthi]

I owned 2 SVDs. Both of them died. Not only that, but when compared to my Sigelei Zmax v2 and my Vamo v2, the SVD just didn't feel like it was hitting nearly as hard, though I don't have the means to actually check it. All of the mods were set to use RMS. While I also can't definitively confirm this either, I believe that Innokin exaggerates a bit on their amp limits. Part of what leads me to think that is the difference I perceived that I mentioned earlier, and part of it comes from my experience with the Innokin VV 3.0, which though it claims to have a 3.5 amp limit, doesn't hit as hard at 5.0 volts as a Vision Spinner seems to at 4.8 volts (2.5 amp limit). Maybe someone else can elaborate on what I'm trying to express here?

Edit: All 3 mods (SVD, Vamo v2, Sigelei Zmax v2) were used in stacked 18350 mode...

 

[VapinSweetZ]

Edit: All 3 mods (SVD, Vamo v2, Sigelei Zmax v2) were used in stacked 18350 mode...

Thanks for the warning on the SVD :X
If you don't mind me asking, why did you chose to stack 18350s instead of using 18650 in VV mods?

 

[Chakthi]

Thanks for the warning on the SVD :X
If you don't mind me asking, why did you chose to stack 18350s instead of using 18650 in VV mods?

Because I tend to push my mods pretty hard, and based on Phil Busardo's charts, the devices mentioned are only able to reach their full output potential with stacked 18350s. They drop off a bit on the higher end with the single 18650 or 18350. You can check out the charts at the tail end of his reviews on all the devices mentioned, or I believe they are also available at http://www.tasteyourjuice.com.