Which wire should I buy?

[Redblack]

Greetings,

Newbie vaper here. I have a dna200 device coming my way. Which wire should I buy for the rba of a smok tfv4? I have both the single and dual coil deck.


I have fiddled with kanthal, ni200 and titanium wires with my dna40. No problems at all with the kanthal, decent flavor and decent cloud for my skill. ni200 is a hit or miss, but the flavor is muted even when it works. Titanium down right didn't work.

Which wire should I get for better flavor and cloud than kanthal, preferably it should be easy to obtain and easy to coil like kanthal.


Thanks!

 

[bussdriver]

Well, you've got stainless steel left to go. I use it most of the time now and most mods now work with it.

 

[Redblack]

Well, you've got stainless steel left to go. I use it most of the time now and most mods now work with it.

Which gauge would you recommend for simple single wire builds and teisted/parrelle builds?

 

[Ryedan]

Greetings,

Newbie vaper here. I have a dna200 device coming my way. Which wire should I buy for the rba of a smok tfv4? I have both the single and dual coil deck.

I have fiddled with kanthal, ni200 and titanium wires with my dna40. No problems at all with the kanthal, decent flavor and decent cloud for my skill. ni200 is a hit or miss, but the flavor is muted even when it works. Titanium down right didn't work.

Which wire should I get for better flavor and cloud than kanthal, preferably it should be easy to obtain and easy to coil like kanthal.

Well, Kanthal will not do TC, so if that's what you're after you have to chose between what the device supports or make it work yourself. I have used both Ni and titanium successfully with my DNA40, but the temperature calibration is off with Ti so I did a dry cotton burn to help me calibrate it manually.

Kanthal, Ni or Ti by themselves have not made any difference in vapor or flavor to my setups. That's all down to the build used, wire gauge and heat flux. You can calculate the heat flux using the Steam Engine coil building calculator.

Ni is much softer than Kanthal as you know so that makes it different than Kanthal. I don't like it so I use Ti for my TC builds because it's harder and more robust. I have not tried SS yet, but that has promise IMO.

Also, when you set up for TC you need to make sure the mod knows what the cold resistance of your build is and lock that in if you have that option. Then it's up to you to set the temperature and watts so you get the vape you want. This is assuming you have a build in the atty that is capable of making that vape

Do you want to use TC and what power do you want to be vaping at?

 

[bussdriver]

I use both 26 and 28 gauge. Makes real nice coils with 6 to 8 turns, and they come out at around an ohm. More than half a dozen turns of the 28 gauge will come out above 1 ohm, which might cause mods to kick out of temp control. In that case a 26 gauge will do. Larger wire such as 24 gauge can be used, but I have a problem making such large wire work out in my rebuildable tanks; I think a dripper might be better for the big stuff.

 

[Redblack]

Well, Kanthal will not do TC, so if that's what you're after you have to chose between what the device supports or make it work yourself. I have used both Ni and titanium successfully with my DNA40, but the temperature calibration is off with Ti so I did a dry cotton burn to help me calibrate it manually.

Kanthal, Ni or Ti by themselves have not made any difference in vapor or flavor to my setups. That's all down to the build used, wire gauge and heat flux. You can calculate the heat flux using the Steam Engine coil building calculator.

Ni is much softer than Kanthal as you know so that makes it different than Kanthal. I don't like it so I use Ti for my TC builds because it's harder and more robust. I have not tried SS yet, but that has promise IMO.

Also, when you set up for TC you need to make sure the mod knows what the cold resistance of your build is and lock that in if you have that option. Then it's up to you to set the temperature and watts so you get the vape you want. This is assuming you have a build in the atty that is capable of making that vape

Do you want to use TC and what power do you want to be vaping at?

I prefer TC. When I do it right with ni200, the vapor production is nice, while the vapor temperature stays cool and smooth.

And the cold resistance is one thing I have never done right. I never managed it to be exactly the same as steam emgine says what it should be. So I just lock whatever resistance it shows.


I will vape at whatever power is needed to produce the vapor I like. Though I do feel 40watt is too low, it won't even fire the pre built coils that came with the tfv4.

I use both 26 and 28 gauge. Makes real nice coils with 6 to 8 turns, and they come out at around an ohm. More than half a dozen turns of the 28 gauge will come out above 1 ohm, which might cause mods to kick out of temp control. In that case a 26 gauge will do. Larger wire such as 24 gauge can be used, but I have a problem making such large wire work out in my rebuildable tanks; I think a dripper might be better for the big stuff.

Okay, thanks.

 

[Ryedan]

I prefer TC. When I do it right with ni200, the vapor production is nice, while the vapor temperature stays cool and smooth.

And the cold resistance is one thing I have never done right. I never managed it to be exactly the same as steam engine says what it should be. So I just lock whatever resistance it shows.

Your builds will not be exactly what SE says they will be, but they shouldn't be too far off. If I am aiming for say 0.35 ohms I typically get between 0.32 - 0.38. Leg length counts and also watch the number of wraps. If the wrap count is 5.25 and you made 5 1/2, then your build will be a bit higher than what you input.

There is nothing wrong with that. What matters is that the mod knows exactly what the build is when it's at room temp. After I build I leave the atty on the mod for 5-10 minutes and then set it. If I fire the atty for a sec by mistake before I complete that, I go through that routine again.

I will vape at whatever power is needed to produce the vapor I like. Though I do feel 40watt is too low, it won't even fire the pre built coils that came with the tfv4.

The thing is the power affects the heat flux, so if you build for a HF of 200 at 40 watts the HF will be 400 at 80 watts and that's probably going to be too high. OTOH if you build for HF of 200 at 80 and end up turning it down to 40 the HF will be low. The HF doesn't have to be exact, but if you want the ability to adjust the power between say 40 - 80 I would build for 60 watts the first time and go from there. What gauge wire you chose for the coil type (single wire or Clapton for example) is a big factor in determining the number of wraps you'll need to get the HF you want on the pin size you want to wrap on.

Play around with the SE coil build calculator a bit and you'll see what I mean. Plug in the watts you want to run on the right in the results window on the HF line and see how wire gauge affects the number of wraps and the resistance you'll need to get the HF you want with the builds you want to try.

 

[sparkky1]

Which gauge would you recommend for simple single wire builds and teisted/parrelle builds?

CLAPTON COIL WIRE 316L STAINLESS STEEL WIRE!! 15' ROLL 26 / 32 AWG

 

[sofarsogood]

28 guage has worked the best for me. I've built with kanthal, nickel, titanium, and now stainless. The first two are history. I think I like stainless better because it's practical to build 1.4 ohm coils which should work in my evic VTC mini and cuboid in TC mode. Right now I'm using a 1.1 ohm build in those two mods with good results. I also tested the build in watts mode and that worked fine too. It appears to me stainless is going to be the norm unless some unobvious hazard comes up and it hasn't happened yet.