Why AWs?

[Cavere]

As I try to sort out the mess of ordering and trying to get my grand milled before I get it (completely my fault, rushing things out of excitement). I always see aw batteries listed add the preferred. While I understand this for the vv grand and even the mini, why not 20-30 amp 18650s for the mech grand? Is it an issue with the spring and button configuration? I have both types of batteries but love my mnke for mech mods.

I'm sure there is possibly a reason I haven't thought of yet which is why I am asking. Thanks!

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[Filthy-Beast]

It was sized for a AW 18650 1600mah that delivers 24A. Button top is good to have to reduce over flexing of the firing pin. Some batteries are slightly longer and that over compresses the spring. I've not used the MNKE batteries so they might be fine.

 

[supertrunker]

No real reason other than they were the best at the time the mod was made - they are still good. I use MNKEs too and .......it's a long list and i like orange.

AWs still compare to them all in terms of the power they can output without stress.

T

 

[Cavere]

Good to know. I wanted to make sure there wasn't any issues with my other batteries. I could buy more aw 18650s but if I don't have to that is nice too.

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[pdib]

I started my REO thang with the MNKEs I already had. I would say that it was a bit of a nightmare. The factors that came into play (as best as I can tell) were: #1 running at .5Ω #2 scuffed up, used battery contact surfaces #3 flat top batteries (distance of travel and angle of attack for firing pin) #4 using something other than Noalox (using ox-guard)

had I been vaping above .8Ω, had batteries with contacts in good condition, and used Noalox, I may not have had all the troubles I did.

The AW are hand selected, top quality batteries, and the button tops help too. (also, 24 Amp max continuous discharge on the 1600mAh is nice)

Now, I'm running Samsung flat tops with my own handmade firing pins and a modded negative contact as well. That works good too!

 

[SeaNap]

IMR batteries are chemically safe, and are great for mechanical mods. lithium ion batteries need protection, usually they are protected but you are able to buy them unprotected, so be aware. I use AW IMR 1600 and 2000 for sub ohm (.5 - .8 ohm) and they work great. On a side note, at .5ohm at 4.2V that is only 8.4A the maximum you will ever draw on a mechanical would be .3ohm at 4.2V = 14A (I would not advise ever going lower than .3ohm), so any battery rated for 15A continuous draw (not peak) will work. I can't attest to other manufacturers, AW is all I've owned.

 

[Cavere]

IMR batteries are chemically safe, and are great for mechanical mods. lithium ion batteries need protection, usually they are protected but you are able to buy them unprotected, so be aware. I use AW IMR 1600 and 2000 for sub ohm (.5 - .8 ohm) and they work great. On a side note, at .5ohm at 4.2V that is only 8.4A the maximum you will ever draw on a mechanical would be .3ohm at 4.2V = 14A (I would not advise ever going lower than .3ohm), so any battery rated for 15A continuous draw (not peak) will work. I can't attest to other manufacturers, AW is all I've owned.

I understand all of that. The issue is as batteries go through their use they tend to lose some of their amperage. Which is why I usually use the higher app rated batteries. I like aw batteries fine just usually prefer others. I'll probably pick up more aw's.

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