Why battery mod?!

[Aalsen]

Ive just ordered two kr808 batteries and two pack of cartomizers the other day. If this doesnt do this for me, 3,7V is not enough. I thought since ive got the charger to the kr808 and it gives 3,7V, i might try this first and see if a 3,7V box mod is enough for me.

Anybody knows what the resistance on a kr808 cartomizer is? Its bought from healtcabin, and the site doesnt say. Its original i bet.

Guess i could try kr cartomizers with less resistance too

 

[WillyB]

Thank you for all your inputs!
So, ive decided to try the 510 boxmod kit from madvapes. Its 3,7V but the battery is 3,6V? Wouldnt it be 3,6V then?

And I was thinking of buying a pack of the 2.0ohm cartomizers, one 2.0ohm atomizer and a pack of the 2.8-3.0ohm e2 ceramic cartomizers as well from madvapes to go with the 3,7 boxmod. This would crank up the amps a bit?

My first kit ever was the kr808 and ive never been as happy as i was with that one. Maybe one reasen is that the kr808 has actual 3,7V output. And Since i drip, maybe cartomizers works great because of the thread goes through the cart and touches more liquid than just having one on the bottom, like 510 attys.

If you really interested a solid vaping experience the 14500's are a poor choice. They really can't keep up with even standard Joye atties for long. And seeing as they are being pushed past what they were designed for they tend to age rapidly.

An 18650 PV like this one makes more sense, and $60 won't break the bank.

 

[icemanx3]

If you really interested a solid vaping experience the 14500's are a poor choice. They really can't keep up with even standard Joye atties for long. And seeing as they are being pushed past what they were designed for they tend to age rapidly.

That's strange...my 14500s work identical to my 18350s...actually love 14500s alot and never had an issue and they last ALL day.

ice

 

[Aalsen]

I bump my question earlier regarding this 14500 battery, it says 3,6V on it. How can it give out more volt? Is this actually a 3,6V mod, and not a 3,7V?

My stock 510 crappy battery (almost new) performes bad enought as it does (180 mah i think), and i do really not want less than 3,7V (not as it would be that much difference with 0.1V) Just dont want less than 3,7.

From madvapes the battery is ultrafire 14500 3,6V ($4.79 for one battery)
From dealeXxreme the battery is trustfire 14500 3,7V ($5.37 for two batteries)

Different Voltage?

Im fuc#ing confused by this whole thing

 

[AttyPops]

I don't believe I'm saying this (because I tend to be literal) but "Don't be so literal".

They charge to 4.2 volts, decline then level off a bit to around 3.6 - 3.7 volts for a while, and the drop off and cut off at 2.75 volts. We use 3.7 volts to mean all of those li-ion batts (3.7 or 3.6... same thing). Don't believe all the mAh ratings either. lol.

Also, what WillyB is saying is correct. It's about how many amps the battery can put out to meet the need at 3.x volts. So a kr808 itty bitty won't perform as well as 14500 which won't perform as well as 18650. Even though they are all 3.7 volts. Hence all the discussion about high-drain batteries. However, some batteries are better at "putting out the amps" than others.

If you build that 5v mod you will be a "happy camper". It uses a voltage regulator and is very consistent until the very last bit, then it cuts off.

 

[Aalsen]

I don't believe I'm saying this (because I tend to be literal) but "Don't be so literal".

They charge to 4.2 volts, decline then level off a bit to around 3.6 - 3.7 volts for a while, and the drop off and cut off at 2.75 volts. We use 3.7 volts to mean all of those li-ion batts (3.7 or 3.6... same thing). Don't believe all the mAh ratings either. lol.

Also, what WillyB is saying is correct. It's about how many amps the battery can put out to meet the need at 3.x volts. So a kr808 itty bitty won't perform as well as 14500 which won't perform as well as 18650. Even though they are all 3.7 volts. Hence all the discussion about high-drain batteries. However, some batteries are better at "putting out the amps" than others.

If you build that 5v mod you will be a "happy camper". It uses a voltage regulator and is very consistent until the very last bit, then it cuts off.

What do you mean about cut off? That the battery after a while of vaping is not able to give more than 2,75V?

And "the bigger the battery" the more amp it is able to put out. But will a bigger battery put out as much amp as a smaller battery, but it is able to put out that amount of amps for a longer time then the smaller one? Or is this regarding voltage?

If i built a 5V mod, wouldnt i have to get new attys, like high voltage attys? The regular ones i have is ment for 3,7V.
Or do you mean that the 5V with a regulator makes it a 3,7V? (like the 519 mod kits on madvapes im looking at)

Im i wrong saying that the 14500 would perform as good as the 18650 on 3,7V output, only the 18650 would perform for a longer period? It would not loose amps as fast as 14500?

 

[timato]

You will be at 5 volt and standard atties (3ohm) work just great at 5 volt.

 

[timato]

Two 3.7 batts stacked is close to 8 volts or 7.4 to say and the 5 volt regulator keeps your output power at 5volts untill the batteries can't supply 5v. For an in expensive mod they realy give a quality vape. And 3 ohm atties on a 5v mod is realy nice.

 

[Aalsen]

Sounds great timato, but i think the standard 510 atty has about 2,2ohm, not 3. The atty would be fried, or die really fast on a 5V mod i think.

 

[Aalsen]

A fully charged Li-ion 3.7(6) is usually about 4.2v.
Make sure you got a charger and enough batts for the box mod.

I would recommend the evercool also, i built mine for literally about $5 + batteries and charger (samples are awesome). Just dont get lazy and forget to epoxy everything, or juice might leak in and destroy your board (rip evercool, rip)

jmanning posted a link on page 1 to the evercool vv box mod i think, but the link did not tell me what parts i needed or how to build the thing or where i could get the parts from. Ive never built a box mod before, so maybe thats why i did not understand anything

Isnt it just to use another regulator on the 5V box mod from madvapes, a regulator that lets you regulate between volts? Instead of using a regulator that is just 5V?

 

[stouchon]

There are so many different combination's of ohms and voltages that can appeal to anyone. I would suggest that you just start with a 3,7 cheap mod that is dependable and long lasting. You can always keep it for a backup if it isn't what you really want. Then build a variable voltage mod (the evercool thread is always on page one) for as cheap as possible (the search field is your friend). Find exactly what you like and build or buy whatever your heart desires. Once you have variable voltage 5 or 10 bucks (or euros) on an adapter, atty or cart is manageable.

My first mod was a home made evercool. Yes, you can change the voltage to whatever you like easily and efficiently. If you continue reading past page one, the parts and directions for several configurations are listed. I found that I prefered close to 3,7v with ce2 carts and now my evercool is backup and dry-burn machine.

Sorry, I had to do it... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=evercool+variable+voltage+mod

 

[Aalsen]

Haha! I liked the link

Yeah, ill start with the 3,7V mod and learn to solder an make a mod box. Then ill try the 2.0 ohm cartos/atty to the box mod. THEN ill try to make a VV box mod

Just waiting for madvapes to make a 510 VV box mod KIT with a "how to" guide That would be VERY popular among the vaping people, im sure of it!

 

[jufreese]

just built a mod with an old cell phone battery

 

[JWebb]

Undertheradar, I did the same, 510 to eGo adn then jump to the Provari, best investment, I can see the display give me battery voltage, atomizer ohms and variable voltage is great. Lot easier than building my own. Looking for the eclipse from digitalciggs to come out.

QUOTE=undertheradar;2763124]First, I vaped a week on my mall cig, then on 510 long batts, then several ego 650 and 900 mah batteries. (900 batts are WAY better than 650s). To reward myself for 2 months without a single drag on an analog, I bought a Provari to get more throat hit and to learn about how resistance of my atty or carto relates to voltage.

I found that the resistance varies from 2.3 to 3.3 on both my 30 or so cartos and my 16 attys. Three of these cartos and one atty I had given up on, since I thought they were worn out or just duds. They all work fine now. Higher resistance just needs a little extra voltage to perform well.

For throat hit without PG, I add Everclear at 5-10% of the final mix and homemade cinnamon flavoring (soak cinnamon sticks in VG) and up the voltage a little. If that isn't enough, I up the nic by 2 mg/ml to 14 mg/ml. That plus a sharper (faster) inhale and waiting longer between hits works great now. I'm glad I spent the 200 bucks for the Provari and 18650 high-drain batts.[/QUOTE]

 

[Aalsen]

Undertheradar, I did the same, 510 to eGo adn then jump to the Provari, best investment, I can see the display give me battery voltage, atomizer ohms and variable voltage is great. Lot easier than building my own. Looking for the eclipse from digitalciggs to come out.

QUOTE=undertheradar;2763124]First, I vaped a week on my mall cig, then on 510 long batts, then several ego 650 and 900 mah batteries. (900 batts are WAY better than 650s). To reward myself for 2 months without a single drag on an analog, I bought a Provari to get more throat hit and to learn about how resistance of my atty or carto relates to voltage.

I found that the resistance varies from 2.3 to 3.3 on both my 30 or so cartos and my 16 attys. Three of these cartos and one atty I had given up on, since I thought they were worn out or just duds. They all work fine now. Higher resistance just needs a little extra voltage to perform well.

For throat hit without PG, I add Everclear at 5-10% of the final mix and homemade cinnamon flavoring (soak cinnamon sticks in VG) and up the voltage a little. If that isn't enough, I up the nic by 2 mg/ml to 14 mg/ml. That plus a sharper (faster) inhale and waiting longer between hits works great now. I'm glad I spent the 200 bucks for the Provari and 18650 high-drain batts.

[/QUOTE]

The Provari is $200!! (now for sale on $160) Soon i bet madvapes (Mark i think his name is) will have a VV box mod kit in his store, for a very livable price.
Within this week he suppose to have all the parts needed to make a VV box mod i think, so the kit would be right around the corner i think.

Id rather buy a kit for a low price and make it myself and measure the atty ohm manualy, then spend a hundread bucs on a premade VV box mod. The looks are different, but the power is the same

 

[undertheradar]

Provari - $160
18650 extender end cap - $20
2 18650 AW brand IMR high-drain batteries - $12.50 X 2
Total - $205 (I already had the charger)

I figure I would spend at LEAST a dozen hours researching, collecting parts for, and actually building a mod. My time is worth something, too. With the Provari, I have a stainless steel quality-built mod that looks sharp, too.

 

[Aalsen]

Id rather save a lot of bucks and build a box mod myself. I learn a lot in the same time. And i dont need many houres of researching about parts because of mod kits. $20 and knowledge is worth more to mee than $200 and nothing. I get to build stuff and experimenting too! And the good feeling you get when you succeed

 

[Gummy Bear]

Id rather save a lot of bucks and build a box mod myself. I learn a lot in the same time. And i dont need many houres of researching about parts because of mod kits. $20 and knowledge is worth more to mee than $200 and nothing. I get to build stuff and experimenting too! And the good feeling you get when you succeed

Spoken like a true modder.
I'm the kind that will see something in a store for $100.00 and think to myself,,, I could build that myself for 20 bucks, then I'll spend 200 dollars for the supplies and some special tool. But,,, when I'm finished, It's Mine, I made it. And it is usually made better than the store bought one.