All good.There are so many variables at play here, we could have a really detailed technical discussion, but I didnt want eyes to glaze over based upon the OP's first question.
Understood and agreed!
vape on!
Why do many people seem to favor low-ohm coils?
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Understood and agreed!
vape on!
I know enough about electronics to find the technicals quite interesting actually, ha
i have been vaping with genesis atomizers for about a year and most of this time has been with resistances between 1.2 to .07 Ω. the first couple of months i was using some elcheapo 18650 batterys. 8 months ago i purchased 4 aw imr's and they are still going strong. when fully charged they are still lasting as long as they did when i initially bought them. now i cant tell you if low resistance coils drain a battery faster then a high resistance coil, or whether pulse modulation or booster circuitry eats up the difference, all i can say from experience is that 8 months is a long time for batterys to last, so does it really matter? will someone specifically vape a high resistant coil because they want to get 2 years rather then one year out of a battery? the battery life is long either way and should be a non factor
I agree. With the cost of batteries and how well they last, I don't worry about it myself. With that, here's a very good writeup on 18650 batteries... Battery Test - Review. The report covers many of the batteries used in ecigs.
And how exactly are you getting this '20-25 watts' or better yet 'up to 35'?
Quick math:
0.5 Ohm Coil
3.7 V Battery
27.38 Watts
0.5 Ohm Coil
4.2 V Battery
35.28 Watts
Factor in some Voltage drop... and I'd suspect that's exactly what he was referring to.
Before a technical debate starts about are you really getting X amount of watts let me say this. VV mod users rely on the setting of the device to determine the volts or watts used in vaping. As soon as I went to RBAs and genesis in particular I started to use ohms law to determine the theoretical watts of a device. I can say well I use .7 to .9 ohms as my sweet spot, but for someone that doesn't use RBAs that number means nothing, so by saying 20 watts there is a number that can be recognized by any vapor as the intensity of the vape. Is it a true 20 watts? Is it more like 15? It really doesn't matter. By saying 20 watts most people get that its a hot vape, and that is what matters.
Actually the wattage itself is meaningless without knowing what wire gauge a given coil is made from. 15 watts of power applied to a coil wrapped with 36 awg wire is going to be crazy hot, burnt taste... and that if the coil even survives it. Applying that same 15 watts of power to a coil wrapped with 26 awg wire... You'd be lucky if it got hot enough to produce vapor at all.
The reason wattage works for for most vapors is because most vapors are using off the shelf cartos, clearos and attys that are usually coiled with 38 or 36 awg wire.
If you hold the wire gauge held as a constant. You can talk about "X" watts equating to "X" amount of heat or "X" amount of vapor. Without it, it's meaningless... At least in this context.
Since topic's already answered, I take the liberty of asking a few somewhat related questions... of sorts. Trying to figure the logic behind mech mods.
What I take from this discussion is that the big deal with mech mods is that they don't pulse like the VV/VW mods. What puzzles me is that a mech mod in many ways is a VV device due to voltage being high at first, then quickly dropping. So a coil set up to give the perfect vape at 4.2v would degrade as the voltage drop? Wouldn't the ideal solution be a non-pulsing regulated voltage thingy? Is that why people get the Kick?
Sorry for major off-topic. Trying to make sense of all the info and dis-info. Feel free to report/delete if it's too off topic.
What I take from this discussion is that the big deal with mech mods is that they don't pulse like the VV/VW mods. What puzzles me is that a mech mod in many ways is a VV device due to voltage being high at first, then quickly dropping. So a coil set up to give the perfect vape at 4.2v would degrade as the voltage drop? Wouldn't the ideal solution be a non-pulsing regulated voltage thingy? Is that why people get the Kick?
Sorry for major off-topic. Trying to make sense of all the info and dis-info. Feel free to report/delete if it's too off topic.
Personally, I'm finding it hard to identify an answerable question in that. . . . so, mu
Nope... That's not it. Most attys don't heat or cool fast enough to make even a 33 Hz pulse noticeable and a ProVari produces a flat (unpulsed) signal. The big deal with mech mods is the fact that their output amperage isn't limited. All regulated devices (what you would refer to as VV/VW) have a maximum amp output, a maximum wattage output and a minimum on the ohms that they will accept.In general, these are done intentionally and touted as safety features... It is the avoidance of these "features" that appeals to mech users.
No... And that's why most experienced user use the term "regulated" as opposed to "VV/VW". My ProVari is a "VV" device and it will output the exact same voltage that I set it to and will do so until the battery drops below 3.3 volts. It's considered "VV" because I choose the output voltage.Yes it's true that the output of a mech does drop as the battery discharges, so in a sense it does "vary" but it only varies based on the charge status of the battery... Not my preferences...
Yup... That is why many people prefer regulated PVs over mechs.
No... The ProVari, Darwin & Kick all output flat DC signals... But, as stated above, the pulsing isn't the issue it's the output limitations that push people to mechs. (That and the fact that most mechs are far more attractive and some are absolute works of art.)
No worries. All of your questions were right on topic and good questions to boot.Hope this clears things up a bit.
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as i vape a low resistance coil in my mechanical mod i really cannot feel the voltage drop. i install a fresh battery in the morning and when i come home from work the battery will read about 3.8v, from fully charged to this for me is undetectable because the drop is spread out to 6 hrs. when i get home i install that same battery in my vv device, which i vape the rest of the night then recharge. as for a kick, thats like putting training wheels on a race car, why would anyone want to restrict a mechanical mod to 10 watts?
Agree 100%. Here in the RBA section most people get .28 - .26 gauge kanthal, 500 - 400 ss mesh, 30A MNKE - 10A AW IMR batteries, and little to no resistant mech mods and devices are all factors in building a high power / high vapor devices. My post was just a response to someone who doesn't get how someone can get 20 to 30 watts from a mech mod.
My guess... They bought the mech cuz it's pretty and you don't need more than 10 watts to vape a carto.
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Give me a .8 dual coil wrap on my Terminator-C,or any of my RBA's for that fact,any day of the week.Unless you have tried it you just can not understand it
jasl90 and vapdivrr,
Got that strange feeling one gets when things are starting to make sense. Much appreciated! Time to take the plunge and see if it's for me.
Got that strange feeling one gets when things are starting to make sense. Much appreciated! Time to take the plunge and see if it's for me.
Sweet! Good luck to ya! Be sure to post some picks once you'e up and running.
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