Why do many people seem to favor low-ohm coils?
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Yes, very much so! Hey, I can show you that "choke" I set up on it. Hold on, I'll get it.
Here ya go. Probably the obvious gizmo. But I'm really liking it too. Now that I can, I find that I'm regulating airflow all the time; depending on type of juice, how full the atty is, how hot the atty is, yada yada.
HEY, EVERYBODY, LOOK! Its jasl90's Micro-Gen. (But I'm not sucking on it in the picture
)
HEY, EVERYBODY, LOOK! Its jasl90's Micro-Gen. (But I'm not sucking on it in the picture
)
Well, now that everybody is looking, better show them the guts. (For those who may have missed it.)
This things an HH.357 on SLRoids.
edit: oversimplification ↑. Its not just an HH357, much bigger bass notes, and it goes 1 louder (all the way up to 11)
This things an HH.357 on SLRoids.
edit: oversimplification ↑. Its not just an HH357, much bigger bass notes, and it goes 1 louder (all the way up to 11)
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Here ya go. Probably the obvious gizmo. But I'm really liking it too. Now that I can, I find that I'm regulating airflow all the time; depending on type of juice, how full the atty is, how hot the atty is, yada yada.
View attachment 204250View attachment 204251View attachment 204252View attachment 204253
HEY, EVERYBODY, LOOK! Its jasl90's Micro-Gen. (But I'm not sucking on it in the picture
That's an awesome idea! What did you use to cut the horizontal slit? It comes to too fine a point to be a Dremel cut off wheel...
It was a filing job. I have this feather edge file for sharpening Japanese pull-saws. And some other weird-shaped little files. It ended up being a little sculpting session. The biggest section fits a 1/16 drill bit; but I can just spin it around to the vertical slit to completely disengage it. Total control over TH and bright notes.
I was thinking you might be interested in drilling an even bigger air hole and doing this (since you already like 1/16)
done the whole setup step by step with hotspot fixing and etc.
it works perfectly fine with my regulated pv, anything more than 15 watts with my mech it starts glowing red even with juice surrounding it.
thanks for the advice anyway.
At 20 watts you should just buy a mini fog machine from Party City and cough yourself into oblivion
I've gone up to 60watts and even there the vapor, flavor, and TH were amazing versus any standard resistance coils I've wrapped.
Latest experiment is shortening up the coil on my wick using the middle of the post.
Hits like a train but not overpowering TH.
Latest experiment is shortening up the coil on my wick using the middle of the post.
Hits like a train but not overpowering TH.
technically, that just means that you haven't fixed your hotspots.... or you wrapped a bad(loose) coil....
if you still can't diagnose a bad coil/wrap/wick then you aren't ready to take on what you are trying to do.
Again, walk before you run.
Everything revolves around wicking. Cartos can't wick fast enough for high power you are likely to just burn up the filler. The more power you put through something the better the wicking needs to be.
As far as hot spots someone else was having it's important to not simply get the thing to not have a short and then fill it. You need them to all glow evenly from the moment you press the button and continue to do so while holding it down. Pulsing can usually achieve this if you aren't getting a short. Tension of coils and placement is also very important as is how your wick is made.
Actually... It revolves around wire gauge. Thinner wire gets much hotter, much faster than heavier gauge wire, at any given wattage.
7 or 8 watts is more than enough to get 38 AWG wire up vaping temps but it won't do much for the heavier gauges of wire or the wider ribbon wire.
ok so found out that the hotspot was at the bottom leg where the kanthal goes from the wick to the negative post. thing is, ive tried adjusting and fiddling and pushing the wick nearer yet it doesn't resolve the hotspot.
its non-existent <15 watts and pops up at anything above that.
is there something i'm missing here?
and for the record, i've done plenty of wick and coils (standard resistance ~2ohms) for my 2 genesis atties and haven't had any problems with my regulated PV prior to buying my mech mod.
so if you really wanna help please point me in a useful direction instead of telling me to "walk before i run" over and over again. no offense meant.
some advice relevant to high wattages/ low resistance coils might help. thanks again.
its non-existent <15 watts and pops up at anything above that.
is there something i'm missing here?
and for the record, i've done plenty of wick and coils (standard resistance ~2ohms) for my 2 genesis atties and haven't had any problems with my regulated PV prior to buying my mech mod.
so if you really wanna help please point me in a useful direction instead of telling me to "walk before i run" over and over again. no offense meant.
some advice relevant to high wattages/ low resistance coils might help. thanks again.
TheBoom,
the reason you get the hotspots at a higher "heat" is because electricity take the path of least resistance.
when you crank up that voltage on a regulated mod, what once was ok, WILL change, and that electricity WILL find any spots that have not yet been addressed properly.
The reason i think your regulated device is ok; is because, even if you crank up the voltage, a mod will limit its self depending on the coil that is attached to it.
THIS IS WELL KNOWN.
mods like the lavatube, will push a lower voltage than displayed if it has been programmed not to exceed a certain AMP/wattage/voltage limit.
while mods like the Provari will just give you an error code.
Mechs dont suffer from this programming and will push out the constant power whether it is safe or not.
the electrical path may change as the electricity finds the path of least resistance... and it is CONSTANTLY trying to do so.
Genisis tanks are not a "set it and forget it" type of coil.
you have to go back and learn how to properly oxidize your mesh. it is very obvious from the conditions that you have described, that you havent been able to do it properly yet.
we are not poking fun of you when we say things like "back to basics" or "walk before you run".
it is constructive criticism, with some bad humour.
your coils that were previously made (1.8~2.2 or whatever) weren't strong enough to catch the shorts. or the mod kept you from a melt down. you obvously missed an important part of these coils, and need to go back and rectify what the issue actually is ... THE WICK!
we are keeping you from hurting yourself and frustrating yourself, by telling you to go a few steps back.
Your stubbornness in thinking you know what you are doing is your only issue in not heeding our advice and warnings.
the reason you get the hotspots at a higher "heat" is because electricity take the path of least resistance.
when you crank up that voltage on a regulated mod, what once was ok, WILL change, and that electricity WILL find any spots that have not yet been addressed properly.
The reason i think your regulated device is ok; is because, even if you crank up the voltage, a mod will limit its self depending on the coil that is attached to it.
THIS IS WELL KNOWN.
mods like the lavatube, will push a lower voltage than displayed if it has been programmed not to exceed a certain AMP/wattage/voltage limit.
while mods like the Provari will just give you an error code.
Mechs dont suffer from this programming and will push out the constant power whether it is safe or not.
the electrical path may change as the electricity finds the path of least resistance... and it is CONSTANTLY trying to do so.
Genisis tanks are not a "set it and forget it" type of coil.
you have to go back and learn how to properly oxidize your mesh. it is very obvious from the conditions that you have described, that you havent been able to do it properly yet.
we are not poking fun of you when we say things like "back to basics" or "walk before you run".
it is constructive criticism, with some bad humour.
your coils that were previously made (1.8~2.2 or whatever) weren't strong enough to catch the shorts. or the mod kept you from a melt down. you obvously missed an important part of these coils, and need to go back and rectify what the issue actually is ... THE WICK!
we are keeping you from hurting yourself and frustrating yourself, by telling you to go a few steps back.
Your stubbornness in thinking you know what you are doing is your only issue in not heeding our advice and warnings.
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If you REALLY want our help, make a video post it privatly on youtube, with a close up process if how you prep, oxidize, and roll your wick. Then how you wrap your coil. THEN of how you clear any little hotspots.
you can send it to me, and i can try to help you figure out what small details you may have missed.
The is the only REAL way to help.
If "The Dot" is anywhere near where i live, i would have no issue having a sit-down and help guide you through a trouble free wick/coil, and troubleshooting any issues that may arise.
you can send it to me, and i can try to help you figure out what small details you may have missed.
The is the only REAL way to help.
If "The Dot" is anywhere near where i live, i would have no issue having a sit-down and help guide you through a trouble free wick/coil, and troubleshooting any issues that may arise.
Wrap it around the negative clockwise and tighten it so there is the smallest lead possible before it hits mesh. Bottom coils tend to be where people mess up and they end up being loose. If you are still getting hot spots with the those two issues taken care of its wick prep problems, needs more oxidation.
oh, i followed todds videos where he always goes anti clockwise round the screw and wick.
i'll try that out and see if it works better. thanks.
buzzkill, i live very far away so sadly thats not gonna happen. again thanks for the advice.
Also check out Rick's tutorial, it is pretty thorough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUswRhVyu0g&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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