I've been having a run recently of my atty's working horribly. I try to clean them regularly, but it only seems to help for about 10 minutes after they dry. They fire brilliantly and the vapor production is perfect, but once I have to drip again they clog to where I can barely drag. I typically need to blow them out again to give them some spark, but it's never quite the same. I have three 501-T's just like that. Would reapplying the spike/wick help this?
Why does my 510-T atty clog so fast?
- Thread starter nectarguru
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I've been using 510-T for about a month, and the juices have been varied. Some darker, some lighter, typically 100% VG. My three most recent juices have been 50/50. How is the construct of the plain different than the tank model? I like the 510-T because of the direct exposure to the coil once the spike is removed.
they usually dont recommend over 40%vg with these type of tank systems. i have had a 60/40 blend work buts its really hit or miss and mostly miss. i assume the 510-T puts out a lower voltage as well so the coils are not heating the e-liquid well enough to dissipate correctly and gunking it up.
Last edited:
Well, I really didn't start having these problems until a couple of weeks ago. I feel like it has progressively gotten worse, even though I'm cleaning them regularly. My atty's came in a kit which came with a 100% VG tobacco juice which was rather light, but I also got 100% PG clove juice which was dark. Both worked great. I used the tanks for awhile but switched to dripping not after long, and that's where the problems began. Early tonight I soaked one in rubbing alcohol for about 4 hours, then rinsed, boiled, and blew it out. Worked GREAT with the first three drops, but as soon as I redripped it clogged once again.
I had similar problems with the 510-t attys. I think it's just a general case of too little space inside the spike, so the wicks clog up quite fast and then stop wicking. Capillary action doesn't work that well along a wick if it's also pulling from the wick out to the sides of the spike. The top of the spike needs to be that narrow, but I can't help but think perhaps having it widen out just below the end of the spike tip and only having the narrow tip pierce the tank would be more effective. Modding up something like that is beyond my ken and the cost of the 510-t atties is high, so I just switched to cartos in the end.
A couple of weeks ago I removed the spike on all of them. It worked extremely well for awhile, but it seems though that they all started drawing tougher right around the same time. I'm wondering if what happens is that you prime it with maybe 3 drops, but maybe 1.5 of it goes into the connector and can't be burned, so when you redrip it's just adding to the pile. Why then can't I blow the rest out? It's beyond me. I agree that the cost is too high, but I'm not so sure I want to switch back to cartos. I may consider trying the regular 510. If I can make $8 last a month for one atty, that'd be great. It seems that after regular attys and cartos you jump into Clearomizer/Fluxomizer territory, and that just eats into your pocket.
Can you fluff out the wick (separate the fibres) a bit once the spike is off? That might put a stop to any excess juice. As for stuff in the connector, that shouldn't really affect things. If it did you'd hear a whole lot of gurgling constantly so it'd be pretty obvious the thing was flooded. The only other thing I can think to do is try using those low filler carts instead of the tanks. I can't remember the name but they're basically a tank with a tiny bit of filler in the end so they can be used with normal attys. They might end up being the best of both worlds..
- Status
Similar threads
