Why does my fire button get hot with dual coils?

[Chuckq4yoo]

So I'm using a Gus and GP paps mod with a solid brass center post with a AGA-T (dual coils) and a Nimbus Drip Atty (also dual coils).

I'm also using a AW IMR 18650 battery, 2000mah. Both atomizers are going around .7-.9 ohms.

does anyone know why my button gets really hot? Even if I don't consistently fire it, it still gets hot.

I have tried single coils as well and it doesn't even get warm. I'm just guessing its too much with the dual coils or something...

 

[studiovap]

So I'm using a Gus and GP paps mod with a solid brass center post with a AGA-T (dual coils) and a Nimbus Drip Atty (also dual coils).

I'm also using a AW IMR 18650 battery, 2000mah. Both atomizers are going around .7-.9 ohms.

does anyone know why my button gets really hot? Even if I don't consistently fire it, it still gets hot.

I have tried single coils as well and it doesn't even get warm. I'm just guessing its too much with the dual coils or something...

The lower the resistance of your coil the more current is drawn from your battery, therefore the more efficient your contact points (or switch) has to be.
The Paps is prone to poor contact/current delivery due to :
1. The hotspring , which limits power due to it's built in resistance and poor current carrying capabilties,
Fix: use safe chemistry IMR batteries and replace the hotspring with a solid brass pole or screw for the battery contact.
2. The switch shaft and sleeve can wear causeing poor contact area inside the switch.
Fix: replace internal bottom button's flimsy spring with a thicker gauge spring to help carry the higher current ( the original spring is so light and thin it does not really help carrying the current and leaves all the responsibility on the contact made between the switch rod and the stainless steel sleeve it slides inside of)
3. The switch and contact surfaces (particularily the brass ones) can become corroded or dirty, massivly affecting condutivity.
Fix: Dismante bottom button and polish all contacting surfaces then clean with alcohol.

If all these issues are address you button should stay cool.

 

[crxess]

Lets see:
Assuming your coil average is .8 and you are running in parallel, your SEEN ohms load is .4 or almost a dead short. Your fire button is the weak link and needs attention.

Pay close attention to each contact surface.
Pin contact to center post - Pin back facing contact to switch housing - housing to body.

Switch spring is for safty(return) and should not be depended on to carry current, but to assist.

 

[Chuckq4yoo]

Thanks guys.. Do you guys happen know how to dismantle a Gus button?

 

[studiovap]

Switch spring is for safty(return) and should not be depended on to carry current, but to assist.

UppIng the gauge of my spring in my Paps switch made a big difference to voltage under load, so I'm just passing on my experience.

 

[nahoku]

Lets see:
Assuming your coil average is .8 and you are running in parallel, your SEEN ohms load is .4 or almost a dead short. Your fire button is the weak link and needs attention.

I really hope you understand what crxess has stated here. Your mod's total resistance is .4 ohms. This translates (with a freshly charged battery @ 4.2v) to 44.1 watts at 10.4 amps.

I don't run SLR coils, and I have no idea if people actually run at this high a power, but 44 watts sounds a bit dangerous to me. Of course, that may be just my inexperience with SLR.

If you were shooting for a .8 coil using dual-coils, you should wind each coil to 1.6 ohms.

I apologize if you already knew all of this.

 

[studiovap]

Thanks guys.. Do you guys happen know how to dismantle a Gus button?

Release the circlip on the button post.

 

[SteamDaddy]

a coil wound from jumper cables in a glass, hooked to a 12v car battery works good to
^ smartass

 

[studiovap]

a coil wound from jumper cables in a glass, hooked to a 12v car battery works good to
^ smartass

What ????.....

 

[crxess]

a coil wound from jumper cables in a glass, hooked to a 12v car battery works good to
^ smartass

What ????.....

Agreed - What? and Why post that?

Actually I have never seen a good pair of jumper cables that would fit into a glass.

I thought every post was in an attempt to assist - did we miss something?

Oh, and I don't disagree with a good spring. Just understand the spring is by design for tactile feel and safe release of the switch. All flat surfaces should make solid contact for best switch performance.
This can be a bit tricky with minimum give between contact points.