Why is anyone interested in "sub-ohm" coils? At any desired power (watts) output, higher impedance will equal less current (amps) draw and longer bat
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this factor: variable watts-volts / higher resistance / lower amps, batt life is an obvious equation…
whether low resistance, high amp draw actually hurts high output batts, i don't know, but its like comparing a heavier chasis car to a sports car with high rpms.
another factor that comes from old school vaping logic: sub ohms, high amps will "obviously" burn juice/coil/wick = nasty …. wrong.
Proper wicking, and air, atomizer design makes for "better" vape.
If you follow safety guidelines, sub ohms vaping makes getting what most want out of a vape much more accessible and bountiful; flavor and vapor.
not knocking VV VW and high ohms… just my opinion (and many others)
whether low resistance, high amp draw actually hurts high output batts, i don't know, but its like comparing a heavier chasis car to a sports car with high rpms.
another factor that comes from old school vaping logic: sub ohms, high amps will "obviously" burn juice/coil/wick = nasty …. wrong.
Proper wicking, and air, atomizer design makes for "better" vape.
If you follow safety guidelines, sub ohms vaping makes getting what most want out of a vape much more accessible and bountiful; flavor and vapor.
not knocking VV VW and high ohms… just my opinion (and many others)
Sub ohm coils were just part of the learning curve of what we can do with coils. A year ago sub ohm was a good option, but more modern coil designs will eventually make sub ohm nothing more than a foot note in the history of vpin'.
Its pretty simple
When i used my vamo with a protank at 1,8-2,5 ohms... I pressed the button took a drag and a drag and then i took a mouthfull and inhaled...
Now with a 0,35 ohm coil on my mech i press the button and i take a drag and exhale a big cloud of happiness...
Clean crisp flavor, good temp, massive cloud that delivers a good nic feel
__________________________
M16 helio 0,35
Galileo helio/chimbus 0,5/0,4
Bolt carto tank
Vamo vivi/protank
Kts+ igo-w 0,7
When i used my vamo with a protank at 1,8-2,5 ohms... I pressed the button took a drag and a drag and then i took a mouthfull and inhaled...
Now with a 0,35 ohm coil on my mech i press the button and i take a drag and exhale a big cloud of happiness...
Clean crisp flavor, good temp, massive cloud that delivers a good nic feel
__________________________
M16 helio 0,35
Galileo helio/chimbus 0,5/0,4
Bolt carto tank
Vamo vivi/protank
Kts+ igo-w 0,7
I wouldn't vape my KFL with a 0.8 ohm coil. Nor would I vape my gennies with a 1.8 ohm coil.
agree…
dripper tanks like KF design is different from the wide array of RBAs that sub ohms is best suited for…
if you have a mechanical device, 1.8 is not ideal for KF whereas VV/VW can boost power to optimize that vape.
Yet KF with a mechanical device will be great at higher range of sub ohms ie. .8 to 1ohms…
I find most Genesis and drippers if set up properly can go very low to mid sub ohms beautifully…
I spent 3 years with a Provari… now I'm in yr 2 of all mechanical.
Not correct. The draw on your battery is your wattage, the ohms of your coils or amps to coil make no difference in modern vaping with VV. If you use high ohm and VV and crank it up, you essentially have the same effect on the battery. Its your wattage that you should be paying attention to not amps. Now if you were to come up with a way to get more vapor from less wattage, that is something im sure the vaping community would love to see.
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Please elaborate.
I should probably point out, like ukeman mentions, that I'm using mechanicals. 0.8 ohms 28 awg on the KFL was way too hot a vape for me. I found it more to my liking at ~1.2 ohms with 30 awg. Non-microcoil.
On the gennies I use 28 awg for 0.8 ohms. That's the sweet spot for me. Any higher, and it takes too long to heat up.
So... in my experience, and according to my personal preferences, there is no one-coil-fits-all. One guy getting a good vape from 1.8 ohms on one setups doesn't mean it's best for everyone on all setups, and that everyone who goes lower is doing it wrong or missing a point.
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having vaped, dripping on 1.5ohm attys (bridgless 901), for 3+ years I finally stepped up to RDAs. I built a couple 1.2 - 1.5ohm coils and was knocked out by the difference. Then once I was comfortable with the hardware, I drilled out my air holes to 3/32" and started building .5 to .8ohm coils.... HOLY CRAP did it wake up flavors!!! Now I'm pretty set @ .8ohm single coil in my smaller RDA and a pair of 1.6ohm coils run together in my slightly larger RDA for a total of .8 ohms.
FWIW and YMMV: I make 'nano coils' and put a minimal piece of cotton under them. I've never owned or wanted a variable volt/watt mod...give me a high drain IMR battery and a simple switch any day. I only vape VG (though I have some that the flavors are in PG so they aren't 100% VG).
FWIW and YMMV: I make 'nano coils' and put a minimal piece of cotton under them. I've never owned or wanted a variable volt/watt mod...give me a high drain IMR battery and a simple switch any day. I only vape VG (though I have some that the flavors are in PG so they aren't 100% VG).
This.^^^^^^^^
There is heat up time, and warmth to take into account as well.
When I fire my Reo with a .6Ω coil built on an RM2, it hits exactly like a cigarette. That's running around 28W down to 23W through the useful charge cycle of the battery. You'd think the juice I put in it would taste "burnt", because if I put the same juice in a 1.5Ω hh.357 atty on a VAMO and cranked it to 15W it would taste like a burnt mess, and the .6Ω RDA is averaging 10W higher... Not the case. Higher wattage, in a topper that meets the airflow and wicking requirements to handle the increased power, results in quicker, bigger, and more flavorful vapor. Battery life be dammed. As long as an 18650 battery lasts me long enough when I'm out, which it does, it's a non-issue.
The point a lot of people have missed is the OP asked *at any given wattage*.
The answer, I believe, lies in the mass and surface area of the coil.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html
The answer, I believe, lies in the mass and surface area of the coil.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html
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8-oNoooooOOOOO!!!!! Don't make me read any logical discussions or threads on the subject!!!
Where's my bacon and orange juice at?
It's a long one, and I haven't read it all. I've promised myself I'll go back to it from the beginning.
Some fascinating ideas in there, and it makes perfect sense to me.
Some fascinating ideas in there, and it makes perfect sense to me.
tj99959:11919103 said:
What are these more modern coils that you speak of, and since they're not subohm, do they work on a mech? Are you speaking of that "diamond" coil type stuff?
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