why is my riva stronger than my mod???

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JoeyForReal

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Feb 26, 2011
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i got a Bolt mod from Madvapes running at 3.7v with a 2400mAh trustfire 18650.
i generally use LR 510 attys.
for some reason, i seem to get more vapor/TH from my 650mah Riva using the same atty, and the vapor seems warmer.
are there better batteries i should be using with my MOD?
it's still a satisfying vape, but if i feel like my brand new mod/batteries should work better than a riva that i've had for over 6 months.

i appreciate any tips/advice.
thanks,
joey
 

washvap

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Apr 2, 2011
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I would recommend that you get some AW IMR batteries for your Bolt. This is because batteries like Ultrafire don't keep their charge when used with any LR atties/cartos. This will give you inconsistent performance due to the drop in power.

AW IMR batteries are made to work with LR since it holds it's charge a lot better giving you better performance overall. So, you will notice an increase in TH, flavor, and vapor with this type of batt. For your information, batts come off the charger at 4.2V and so that's not the problem.
 

dormouse

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Oct 31, 2010
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I know this is a slightly old thread but I find the same things.

As I understand it, old Riva 510's and I think the current ones that are not Eastmall are like Ego voltage-wise - some kind of modulated or regulated so they average around 3.4v. But the new Eastmall Rivas are 3.7v and their Riva 510 SE has always been 3.7v.

I have 3.7v Riva and a selection of 3.7v box mods, and I already use AW IMR batteries in the mods, but the Riva always seems a bit stronger. I know part of it is the collar around the threads of the Riva restrict the air a bit so I get a less easy, less airy drag compared to my box mods. But I also think my real 3.7v slim KR808D-1's (V4L single logo manuals) start out a bit hotter than my 808/901 box mod.

I don't have a multimeter nor understand chargers but I know the charging cables for my KR808d-1's and my Riva put out 4.2v and my charger for mod batteries puts out 3.7v - I don't know if that means the mod batteries don't get charged to as high a voltage as the Riva and the KR808D-1
 

ambientech

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Most all lithium batteries are listed as 3.7V but are 4.2 v fully charged. I said most all because some are lower voltage but most we use are of the 4.2v variety. If a Riva is outperforming a big battery mod you have problems with your mod or mod battery. Riva's are weak compared to big battery mods and no amount of PWM will change that.
 

Bozzlite

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I have a couple of Bolts and 4 Rivas that I use daily. For me, the Bolts do produce more vapor and TH than the Rivas.

One thing I have found is that the contacts on the Bolts need to be cleaned every couple of weeks or so. You can use alcohol, or even better, Deoxit on the center contact in the cap. Also, clean the threads well. Then, remove the carto from the unit and clean the connector.

All that should give you better performance. I am using AW IMR 18500's and the original Smoktek batteries that came with the Bolt. They both perform well.
 
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MickeyRat

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The thing about Trustfires and Ultrafires is that the voltage falls off faster from full charge than a lot of batteries. They go as long or longer but, not at 4.2V or so like they do off the charger. The AW IMRs seem to do better in that department. You'll need to actually check the voltage to know or sure.
 

rolygate

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A (late) Riva will often work better than a mod that uses a 14500 battery, but it can't work better than a mod with an AW red 18650.

However there are things that will make the mod work poorly:

- There are a lot of counterfeit AW red batts out there now, for example anything brought through the Alibaba website will be a fake. A percentage of ecig owners are using fake AW batteries without knowing it (and especially fake Tenergy Li-FePo4 batteries, this is probably even more of a problem as they can often be stacked for 6v). Fake batteries will be cheap junk unprotected Li-ion batteries that were rejected after tests, then bought by the pallet load as rejects, had their covers stripped, and were then re-covered with whatever label of battery is selling best.

- Bad connections in the mod produce HR joints, high resistance, that cuts the on-load voltage down (but not necessarily the off-load voltage when tested). These could be anything from dirty connectors to bad solder joints.

Get a fake battery and an HR joint and you would be better off with a shorty batt mini.
 

tj99959

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    I would also point out that different alloys have different resistance values. So just the material that a PV is made out of can effect it's performance. My understanding is that the Bolt looses about 0.3v due to internal resistance. That resistance comes from everything from solder joints to the material the tube is made of, even the material that the contacts in the switch are made of. Sometimes there really are reasons that more expensive mods are more expensive.

    :blush: Just ask the Galileo folks about the SS ground pins and center posts.
     
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