Wicking Material

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rock

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Feb 23, 2009
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Do you know anybody that makes home made atomizers that will last long an give a lot of vapor for Janty Kissbox? I am ready to by some.

Can a piece of the metal wire thats used in a toaster be used for atomzers? If that worked I think it would be better to have a flat piece of metal that heats to catch more liquid than using a spring that the liquid can pass
 
Do you know anybody that makes home made atomizers that will last long an give a lot of vapor for Janty Kissbox? I am ready to by some.

Can a piece of the metal wire thats used in a toaster be used for atomzers? If that worked I think it would be better to have a flat piece of metal that heats to catch more liquid than using a spring that the liquid can pass

A flat piece of metal will concentrate all the heat into a small surface area, would probably get TOO hot.

I would think a good replacement for a wick would be two large cement resistors a cartridge lightly sandwiched between, where it's VERY easy to calculate how much heat will be produced given the figures from a given power source and duration. Cement resistors have large surfaces areas and are usually somewhat porous, a good source of nucleation sites of the PG liquid. Non-toxic (provided it's free of lead contamination, which may be unavoidable). You could easily 'calibrate' the vapor production with a pontentiometer, different wattage/shape/size cement resistors, duration, etc. You'd get multiple uses from the same cartridge as I'd figure you'd be able to simply rotate it to a "good" side.
 

vslim

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Feb 19, 2009
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Also I tried that 'heating stainless to orange heat in air' thing,
the wire surface turned a deep blue discolouration.

Hooked two of these wires to each side of a 4.5 V supply,
brushed wires gently together on the blue parts
= Instant contact & burn-out.

Maybe it's a very much thinner oxide layer than for nichrome ?,
possibly a bit un-reliable as an insulator.

One last post and I will quit..... did you try this test with nichrome? The main point I was trying to make is that it is really hard to make a self-shorting coil with this stuff, and if you actually try it you will find that out too.

Giving up now....
 

exogenesis

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Mar 1, 2009
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Please don't give up!

It's experimentation & knowledge that progress the useful discoveries.

I've just got some nichrome wire, so I will do a 'shorting' comparison test
(and more....)

I was thinking you meant 'difficult to short oxidised stainless when cold',
which might well be true with say 304 rather than 316 stainless (or vice-versa).

What I was going to ask was have you found it hold's true if you heat the
coil (as in cleaning cycle) ?
 

gvii

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May 9, 2009
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It's been a few days since I've been wandered on here, been bsuy with some irritating things lately.

I thought it might be a mistake to run the material over the edge of the pot, but I wanted to see if it would make a difference in vapor production, only because it was pretty pitiful beforehand. This was one of those 30 dollars for two special, and quite frankly, if I smoked it, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, lol. But it actually worked out pretty well. And oddly enough, the coil is staying cleaner, and the wick is not burning up yet. Keep in mind, this may be pure luck and nothing else, and I wouldn't recommend anyone else try it without knowing that the possibility of nuking an atomizer is there.

As for the pressure switch, it was really easy to adjust on these. But if you saw them, you would understand why. It is a very primitive design. It is literally two flat conductors that are soldered right to the PCB with the chip that extand down to the rear of the chamber in the battery that sits right before the atomizer. Then there is a diaphram made of some kind of thin rubber with another conductive bar attached to it. Basically, when you draw in, you create a vaccuum in this chamber, which pulls the diaphram in, shorting out the two bars leading off the PCB. Hopefully, that makes sense to you. Not the most concise of descriptions, but that's basically it. It wasn't a big deal at all to move those bars ever so slightly upwards towards the floating one to make it a little more sensitive. And drilling out the intake hole was simple enough. I work on plastic models, model ships, and miniatures for wargaming, so I have a ton of micro drillbits and a pin vise to use them.

I really don't have high hopes for the tungsten. The stuff I'll be using is a bit too thin, but I'll make up a quicky test rig to see what happens. If it looks even remotely promising, I'll go from there and see if I can dig up thicker stuff. But I figured it would be worth a shot. It is worth noting the initial amperage at turn on. I'll be on the safe side and put the battery at a burst rate of 3 to 5C, though most lithium batteries should be able to nearly twice that without too much worry. What does worry is that the voltage control chip may not be able to take the hit. These are a pretty basic design, and these aren't exactly high powered MOSFETs on these boards, lol. But it is worth taking into consideration.

On the other hand, if people are having luck with simple stainless, that will work just fine for me too. Especially since that's easily had anywhere, and extremely cheap. But I'm willing to try anything that even stands the slightest chance of working. Especially if things regarding the FDA really go south. I'd like to not be forced back into tobacco again. Or at least cigarettes. I still enjoy my pipes once a week or so if I can. Besides, most of my pipes are much, much older than me, and I won't sell them, and I don't want to just leave them up on the mantle either. :D
 
gvii - have read your posts. Will think more about the direct juice flow. Nichrome is most suitable because it has a higher resistance but other metals might be usable with a deifferent design.

It might be well worth the chip ramping the voltage up 'slowly' (say over 400msec). Particularly as the coil might heat up before any juice droplets pulled from the metal wicking reach it. This might stress the coil less too (heat expansion).
 

SeaNap

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I am trying to build a custom box, and the only place where i am stuck is on the atomizer... there are two possibilities that i am strugling with:
1. Have a Primer pump button (think lawnmower) spray like 1-2 drops directly onto a stock atomizer. I've been looking all over on Google, and cannot find any kind of pump that i think would work, does any one know what this button would be called or point me in the right direction?
2. I bought a Tiki Torch replacement wick and it is made out of long (about 10in) strands of fiberglass. Now my question is - is it possible to put one end of this fiberglass wick inside lets say a bottle of e-liquid, and then run the other end Through the atomizer coil? I would say the Max. length of the fiberglass would be 3in.

Which option do you think would yeild the best results?
 

RjG

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...I thought it might be a mistake to run the material over the edge of the pot, but I wanted to see if it would make a difference in vapor production, only because it was pretty pitiful beforehand. This was one of those 30 dollars for two special, and quite frankly, if I smoked it, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, lol. But it actually worked out pretty well. And oddly enough, the coil is staying cleaner, and the wick is not burning up yet. Keep in mind, this may be pure luck and nothing else, and I wouldn't recommend anyone else try it without knowing that the possibility of nuking an atomizer is there.

I made one like that for a cigar too. It made very little vapor... till you puffed on it a bunch until it got smokin hot. Then it was a chimney - continuous - it never ran out of huge clouds.
Until it cooled off that is, lol. I've still got that one, I planned on using it for drinking nights when I puff like a chimney - never followed thru with it though.
 
I am trying to build a custom box, and the only place where i am stuck is on the atomizer... there are two possibilities that i am strugling with:
1. Have a Primer pump button (think lawnmower) spray like 1-2 drops directly onto a stock atomizer. I've been looking all over on Google, and cannot find any kind of pump that i think would work, does any one know what this button would be called or point me in the right direction?
2. I bought a Tiki Torch replacement wick and it is made out of long (about 10in) strands of fiberglass. Now my question is - is it possible to put one end of this fiberglass wick inside lets say a bottle of e-liquid, and then run the other end Through the atomizer coil? I would say the Max. length of the fiberglass would be 3in.

Which option do you think would yeild the best results?
Have a lok at the pump/nozzle combos on say perfume bottles (or even the pumps on small liquid soap dispensers).
 

crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
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Silica or long strand fiberglass, poi/fire rope OR McMaster as silica seal rope. Probably local if you can find a fireplace store - they use that as gasket material as well.

Pretty damn sure it's what is in them from the factory

I'm not so sure about that. I found some shreds of wicking floating around under a coil. It has burned ends. Obviously, if in fact this is wicking, it was excess hanging outside the coil and burned right off. This fiber appeared to be more like fibers from a soft nylon or polyester type of rope. Like you may find in a soft double-braid sailboat rope.

It does look very similar to fibers from the rope I use as door gasket in my wood stove but that rope doesn't burn in a week. Or ten years.

I dunno. I still have the fibers from the atomizer and I can pull some fibers from my wood stove and look at them though a scope to compare.
 

mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
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The 901 coil I just disassembled was some type of braided rope. It measured .058" in the middle and flared to .075 at the ends. This leads me to believe that 1/16" (.0625) rope was used. Yes, red to orange nichrome coil color is about 1200 degrees F to 1600 degrees F. RjG has it with silica/fiberglass/ceramic. I would add alumina, but my hunch is ceramic.

nichrome.png
 

RjG

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It's been reported that some atomizers don't have a wick, but have a ceramic rod that the coil is wrapped around. So apparently it must work. I have some M401 atomizers that supposedly have that - I'll tear one down and let you know.

If that's the case, it would be a damn fine substitute for messing around with wick.
 
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