Yea I sometimes have to adjust the center post on my 901 atties. I just take some tweezers and pull it out a little. Problem solved. I am sure the 510 is the same I just have not run into a problem with them yet. I do not tighten them much. Just until I feel it stop and then a little tiny bit more...
Wiggly Adaptor
- Thread starter d0kieSmok
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I didn't know the 901's were like that also. But since most e-cigs have the same heritage I guess most of them share issues.
Kevin
Thank you for these pictures eclypse.
Well, there is a point i needed to raise for everyone to make sure it doesn't happen to him.
Once my adapter loosened and became wiggly, a little push on the attached atomizer, would push the center piece of the adapter down towards the tube.
So while i was having my first vape with the Protege, I just removed the cart from the atomizer, dripped inside the atty...and because the cart was still new, i had to push it a little to make it fit the atty once again. (Mind you that i was holding the whole stuff by the atomizer)
But the thing was so tight that while i was pushing the cart, and despite the fact that I was holding the Protege by the atomizer, nevertheless, a little pressure was inevitably put on the adapter...Which itself resulted in the central part of the adapter, going down towards the tube.
Now here is the real unlucky part,
Take a look once again at the first picture.
When the central part of the adapter was pushed down, due to the fact of the adapter had already loosened earlier and became wiggly, it pushed down with it, in its turn, the central post of the switch assembly,(a positive pole), that was then touching the metallic external cover that surrounds the metallic button that pushes the internal switch. That metallic part is connected to the tube and touches it, which is a negative pole.
Thus creating a short circuit.
That thin millimeter that separates the central post of the switch assembly, from the metallic cover of the external push button, was probably pressed down, due to the wiggling effect of the switch, that made the central part of it go down, and press on the central post, when the atomizer was attached to it.
At that moment, i couldn't yet notice anything wrong, so I pressed the push button to vape, which pressed in its turn on the switch.
Then i released.
But then, the switch decided to stick on the "ON" position...And you can imagine what happened few seconds later, with a short circuit running down the battery and a sticky switch...Battery leaked its nasty juice in the chamber...atty dead...switch dead (resuscitated later...yeah don't ask)...even solders inside the switch assembly were dislocated and melted down...
It took me few days to reconstitute the scene of the crime and figure out what happened.
Now i got the parts somehow running again, but as a precaution, I put a little duct tape right between the center post of the switch assembly, and the stainless cover of the external push button, so to avoid a short circuit should those 2 parts touch once again...and i can say that they do, by the shape that the little duct tape is taking.
And sometimes they just don't meet, because the pressure applied by the spring on the end cap, pushes the battery up, enough for it to push the whole switch assembly, in a way that keeps the center post, a millimeter away from the stainless cover of the external push button.
And by the way,in this case, the whole switch assembly is luckily pushed up, only due to the fact of the loosened wiggly adapter.
So that wiggly adapter, that is a curse from one end, becomes a blessing from the other end
errr...If what i said above doesn't sound clear, which is perfectly understandable, just to be on the safe side, put the duct tape for any eventuality...And have a nice vaping
Well, there is a point i needed to raise for everyone to make sure it doesn't happen to him.
Once my adapter loosened and became wiggly, a little push on the attached atomizer, would push the center piece of the adapter down towards the tube.
So while i was having my first vape with the Protege, I just removed the cart from the atomizer, dripped inside the atty...and because the cart was still new, i had to push it a little to make it fit the atty once again. (Mind you that i was holding the whole stuff by the atomizer)
But the thing was so tight that while i was pushing the cart, and despite the fact that I was holding the Protege by the atomizer, nevertheless, a little pressure was inevitably put on the adapter...Which itself resulted in the central part of the adapter, going down towards the tube.
Now here is the real unlucky part,
Take a look once again at the first picture.
When the central part of the adapter was pushed down, due to the fact of the adapter had already loosened earlier and became wiggly, it pushed down with it, in its turn, the central post of the switch assembly,(a positive pole), that was then touching the metallic external cover that surrounds the metallic button that pushes the internal switch. That metallic part is connected to the tube and touches it, which is a negative pole.
Thus creating a short circuit.
That thin millimeter that separates the central post of the switch assembly, from the metallic cover of the external push button, was probably pressed down, due to the wiggling effect of the switch, that made the central part of it go down, and press on the central post, when the atomizer was attached to it.
At that moment, i couldn't yet notice anything wrong, so I pressed the push button to vape, which pressed in its turn on the switch.
Then i released.
But then, the switch decided to stick on the "ON" position...And you can imagine what happened few seconds later, with a short circuit running down the battery and a sticky switch...Battery leaked its nasty juice in the chamber...atty dead...switch dead (resuscitated later...yeah don't ask)...even solders inside the switch assembly were dislocated and melted down...
It took me few days to reconstitute the scene of the crime and figure out what happened.
Now i got the parts somehow running again, but as a precaution, I put a little duct tape right between the center post of the switch assembly, and the stainless cover of the external push button, so to avoid a short circuit should those 2 parts touch once again...and i can say that they do, by the shape that the little duct tape is taking.
And sometimes they just don't meet, because the pressure applied by the spring on the end cap, pushes the battery up, enough for it to push the whole switch assembly, in a way that keeps the center post, a millimeter away from the stainless cover of the external push button.
And by the way,in this case, the whole switch assembly is luckily pushed up, only due to the fact of the loosened wiggly adapter.
So that wiggly adapter, that is a curse from one end, becomes a blessing from the other end
errr...If what i said above doesn't sound clear, which is perfectly understandable, just to be on the safe side, put the duct tape for any eventuality...And have a nice vaping
Good information Mist_Of_Joye,
I had noticed the button housing was in very close to the center pin. I started trying to fix a sticking switch problem on my protege. There was something pushing down on the switch button. I noticed that the button housing was sticking up above the tube slightly. At the same time I also noticed how close the button housing was to the top pin. It looked to me like it wouldn't take much for a short to happen. So I took a small 3 sided file and took a little off the top of the button housing so that when it was fully seated the top was flush with the tube. I also filed the V notch a little bit so as to put more distance between the top pin and the switch button housing. I'm now more confident that it will work much.
Kevin
I had noticed the button housing was in very close to the center pin. I started trying to fix a sticking switch problem on my protege. There was something pushing down on the switch button. I noticed that the button housing was sticking up above the tube slightly. At the same time I also noticed how close the button housing was to the top pin. It looked to me like it wouldn't take much for a short to happen. So I took a small 3 sided file and took a little off the top of the button housing so that when it was fully seated the top was flush with the tube. I also filed the V notch a little bit so as to put more distance between the top pin and the switch button housing. I'm now more confident that it will work much.
Kevin
Good stuff Mist_Of_Joye and a2dcovert. Glad my pictures helped you out Mist.
I just checked my switch housing and its close to the center pin but theres a little space.. about the same gap there as the gap i have from the adaptor/atty connection. I'd like to get that atty flush to the adaptor if possable.. i managed to get it closer but not flush. Helps firm up the draw as that gap lets too much air in.
Glad to know that if i get it flush that the button housing will probably make contact with the center pin which i had no clue it would short it.
I will check this out later on.. yeah it might be a good idea to do what a2dconvert said by filing a little bit of the top of the external button housing so it cant touch the pin and short it.
I just checked my switch housing and its close to the center pin but theres a little space.. about the same gap there as the gap i have from the adaptor/atty connection. I'd like to get that atty flush to the adaptor if possable.. i managed to get it closer but not flush. Helps firm up the draw as that gap lets too much air in.
Glad to know that if i get it flush that the button housing will probably make contact with the center pin which i had no clue it would short it.
I will check this out later on.. yeah it might be a good idea to do what a2dconvert said by filing a little bit of the top of the external button housing so it cant touch the pin and short it.
- Status
