Wiggly Adaptor

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a2dcovert

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I pushed the center post down inside the adaptor to get rid of the gap..I have had no issues w/ my protege at all. Im not sure why you quoted that.

You didn't include that information with the original post. I just felt that was not good advice to be giving new users. It's not like we are dealing with nuts and bolts. These are electrical connections with floating contacts. No problems man, just my 2 cents

Kevin.
 

Mist_Of_Joye

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I received a Protege (with 801 Stainless steal adaptor) and a Protege PT (with 801 Aluminum adaptor) today, and both had supper wiggly adaptors that make it almost impossible to attach an atomizer to it, since threads turn when you try to fix the atomizer to them...And they fall off with a slight push...one of them even just by shaking the adaptor.

Would some glue fix that or shall we try to squeeze some thin brass element between the cap and the center,(taken from an electrical cable for example) in order to tighten it?

Any other suggestion?
 

vapn

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I always hold my atomizer tube when taking the mouthpiece off. Some of them are kinda tight and they require a little wiggle to remove them. This could be some of the problem with these loose adaptors. This is a press fit and can be loosened up especially when they are hot. The delron that isolates the two parts of the post can get slightly soft when hot. It is at this point when you should be very careful when pulling a mouthpiece off. If you need to wiggle it then always hold the atty tube as to not put that pressure on the adaptor. Just my $0.02 here.
 

them0nk

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I fixed mine with some loc-tite (High Strength). It doesn't wiggle WHAT SO EVER, didn't seem to effect the vaping performance either, but after thinking about it after the fact, if i were to have put too much i could have put a wall of it between the brass insert and adapter housing.

Undeniable reason for what causes the wiggly adapter is TOLERANCES. There wasn't enough press on the brass piece inside there... i too was able to slide the thing right out days after i got my protege. The machine shop bored the adapter housing too much or turned the adapter too much... Mind you amount you're working with on a press fit is something like .0005-.002 of a inch. Less than a human hair. The only way to combat it is knurling, loc-tite, and don't cut to much off in the first place hehehe...
 

eclypse

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Sep 9, 2009
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My take was the switch housing. The little round brass piece was in too far down and didnt make contact to the adaptor. When this happend, the adaptor is loose and you can easily turn it. The only way i could get it to work was to push down cart with my lips so it would make contact with the switch.

The fix was to gently lift up on the little round brass piece on the switch with my finger nail. That way it would make contact with the adaptor properly and it would hold it tight.

I think this happened cause i dropped it in the house on the carpet and it must of landed on the atty end and pushed the brass connector in so it was'nt making a proper (Snug) connection any more.

This could probably happen as well if you over tighten the atty as it would ultimately push the connection on the switch down.



 
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a2dcovert

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eclypse,

My protege adapter is tight even when it's not connected to the tube. If your theory was correct everyone's adapter would be loose when not connected to the tube.

Now the overtightening of the atty or dropping the device is highly probable. I am aware that the atty doesn't tighten flush to the connector. This is ok because all you need is a good connection.

Kevin
 
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eclypse

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ad2convert.. I see what you mean now. Mine does rock as well. I remember when i first got it, it was tight. But i dont see how it could always stay that way with the way its made. Adding and removing the atty and the carts will wear it and it will loosen over time it seems. Maybe should of had a rubber gasket ring in between?

May not be a big deal but time will tell.
 

a2dcovert

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ad2convert.. I see what you mean now. Mine does rock as well. I remember when i first got it, it was tight. But i dont see how it could always stay that way with the way its made. Adding and removing the atty and the carts will wear it and it will loosen over time it seems. Maybe should of had a rubber gasket ring in between?

May not be a big deal but time will tell.

I think that PS made a minor mistake in the height of the atty center connector. Tightening the atty too tight must be compressing the delrin insulator and causing a gap to appear which is causing the loose fit. This could also be caused by an impact like dropping the device atty first onto a hard surface. Hopefully they will check this out and correct future production. I would get them to swap out your adapter as this condition will not fix itself.

kevin
 

a2dcovert

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It's hard to explain what's going on with the atty connector. The center contact in the atty will move inside the insulator. When the atty is new this insulator is very tight and resists movement of the connection. Over time this insulator will loosen or soften enough to allow the connection to move up into the atty. This allows the atty to tighten closer to being flush with the adapter connection. This will happen whether you are using a stock battery or the protege. This is normal.

With a new atty the center connection of the atty resists movement and if you try to force the connection to flush it puts pressure on the battery center connector. If the atty tightens up before the connections are flush further tightening will result in the movement of one or both of the center center connections. If the center connector on the protege moves it will compress the delrin insulator. Repeat this and you will have to over tighten the connection always in order to make the atty work properly. This process could result it loosening the adapter connector. I told you this was hard to explain.

As to the air holes in the adapter it doesn't matter how many air holes you make in the adapter connector, the atty (on the 510) only has 2 small holes to pull air through. I don't know if this would help other types.

Kevin
 
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d0kieSmok

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it does matter how many holes are in the adaptor.. the holes in the adaptor dictate how much air gets to those 2 holes in the atty.. By making more air slots I notice a much lighter draw, and the wistle noise stopped. When i take a drag and blow it back into the atty, vapor comes out all 8 holes.

The only reason i made more slots in the adaptor was to get rid of the wistle noise.
 

a2dcovert

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it does matter how many holes are in the adaptor.. the holes in the adaptor dictate how much air gets to those 2 holes in the atty.. By making more air slots I notice a much lighter draw, and the wistle noise stopped. When i take a drag and blow it back into the atty, vapor comes out all 8 holes.

The only reason i made more slots in the adaptor was to get rid of the wistle noise.

The 4 slots already in the adapter equal more surface area than the 2 holes in the atomizer. You could do what I do and not tighten the atomizer too tight. This leaves a small gap between the atomizer and the adapter. This provides a lot more available air for the 2 holes. As long as you have a good snug connection between the atomizer and the adapter, this method works very well. It's still good and attached but nothing is in a bind.

If you tighten the atomizer too tight you will force the center connection of the atomizer upward into the atomizer housing. On some models this causes the insulator to be forced upward as well and it can block the atomizer holes which will cause a hard draw. If you look into the atomizer air holes and see something white this is the insulator material blocking the air holes.

Kevin
 

a2dcovert

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I forgot to add, if you have already forced the atomizers center connection up into the atomizer you can correct this. You will need to take a needle or safety pin into the air holes and gently apply a little force on the center connector and move it downward. You want it to slightly protrude out the bottom of the atomizer.

Kevin
 

lotus14

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I forgot to add, if you have already forced the atomizers center connection up into the atomizer you can correct this. You will need to take a needle or safety pin into the air holes and gently apply a little force on the center connector and move it downward. You want it to slightly protrude out the bottom of the atomizer.

Kevin

Nice tip on the attys Kevin. Just tried on an atty that had developed a stiff draw (even on regular batts) and it definitely helped a bit. Thanks!
 

a2dcovert

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Nice tip on the attys Kevin. Just tried on an atty that had developed a stiff draw (even on regular batts) and it definitely helped a bit. Thanks!

I'm glad it helped you. That's one thing all the manufacturers leave out of their instructions. The e-cig is the first device I've ever used that has a floating power connector. Normally you think that you want an electrical connection tight.

After a lot of use the atty will move easier on it's own and you might have to adjust it more often. Also it is very important to keep the connection clean so keep q-tips handy. If you're like me I overfill sometimes. If you see nic juice in the adapter it probably is on the connector too.

Kevin
 
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