Will A Multimeter Do The Job?
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If there's nothing else available, but I wouldn't trust a device that didn't have a 510 interface.
Thanks Sonicbomb. So you're saying no then? As I doubt I can find a multimeter that has a 510 interface either?
I was thinking to put the v4 on the multimeter before attaching it to my iStick, then if the iStick also shows the same resistance (once i've minused the resistance of the multimeter itself), I'd be fairly sure the resistance is correct.
No?
I was thinking to put the v4 on the multimeter before attaching it to my iStick, then if the iStick also shows the same resistance (once i've minused the resistance of the multimeter itself), I'd be fairly sure the resistance is correct.
No?
A DVM will work fine. Just take a resistance reading with the leads shorted together if not zero subtract that value from the reading you get when you read the resistance of the installed coil in it's base.
Note this is not real good to use for very low resistance values if coil target value is less than .5 ohms I would not recommend a regular dmm.
Note this is not real good to use for very low resistance values if coil target value is less than .5 ohms I would not recommend a regular dmm.
It will work fine 
. Now 2 of my isticks read resistance 0.1 ohm high, so bear that in mind. Its not the most accurate mod.
. Now 2 of my isticks read resistance 0.1 ohm high, so bear that in mind. Its not the most accurate mod.
Thanks Robert. For now I'm going to be using a Kayfun v4 on my iStick 20w, so there will be no sub ohming. Just want to build some single and dual coils in the 1.3 to 2 ohms range.
I'll probably end up getting a high power VV mod next, at least 50w+. If I ever go less than 0.5 ohms I'll not trust the DMM.
I'll probably end up getting a high power VV mod next, at least 50w+. If I ever go less than 0.5 ohms I'll not trust the DMM.
It will work fine
Thanks Roxynoodle, I figured as much as both my iStick 20w's read Nautilus Mini BVC's up 0.1 ohms.
I'm new to vaping and RTA's, but I've tried to read as much as I can. From my understanding building single and dual coils with total resistance between 1.3 and 2 ohms, even if I'm out by 0.3 ohms I can't get myself into too much trouble.
But didn't want to rely solely on the iStick's inbuilt ohms reader.
Really, the accuracy isn't that much of a concern until you get down to 0.3 ohm or less
With the 20W isticks, you need to be at 1.0 ohm or above, but if it isn't, it won't fire it. It will say "low atomizer".
With the 20W isticks, you need to be at 1.0 ohm or above, but if it isn't, it won't fire it. It will say "low atomizer".
A multimeter will work just fine, and be more accurate then a 510 resistance checker. I do find a 510 resistance tester to be a suitable check for reasonable builds.
Personally, I would wrap a coil and let the iStick test it for you....but that's me.
Personally, I would wrap a coil and let the iStick test it for you....but that's me.
I have a super cheap multi-meter and have checked it against my 510 "box" meter. Once I subtract the resistance of the leads by touching them together for a few seconds, I get the same reading. Just touch the leads on the positive and negative posts of the atty, subtract the lead resistance, and you're there. The 510 meter is much easier to use and makes a nice stand for building, but you can get by fine with a multi-meter.
^^^^ Thank you for all the advice.
I'll use the multimeter for now, and keep looking out for a 510 RTA Meter here in Malaysia.
Most standard multi-meters are OK for high ohm builds. Something above 1ohm.. The multimeter tends to not be accurate enough for anything below .5ohm.
Everyone should have a DMM for troubleshooting mods/atties, etc. Checking for continuity between a 510 pin to a coil leg, continuity through a mechmod/topcap/switch... the list goes on. Why write a 2 page essay on why you "think" your atty is a problem and get 8 different recommendations a week later, when you can spend $15 on a DMM and instantly figure it out yourself? Do yourself a favor and don't be that guy.
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I can't think of anything that would ever be more accurate that a high quality fluke. I am a electronics tech and that's what I have always used.
A $15 510 ohmmeter is exactly one order of magnitude better at reading coil resistance than any DMM.
Even Fluke DMM's only have 0.1 ohm resolution. Add 6 feet of test leads and forget about a reliable reading of a 0.5 ohm coil. Good enough for continuity troubleshooting like I said, but you're better off with a 510 ohmmeter with .01 ohm resolution and a mechanically rigid interface for reading coil resistance.
A $15 510 ohmmeter is exactly one order of magnitude better at reading coil resistance than any DMM.
Even Fluke DMM's only have 0.1 ohm resolution. Add 6 feet of test leads and forget about a reliable reading of a 0.5 ohm coil. Good enough for continuity troubleshooting like I said, but you're better off with a 510 ohmmeter with .01 ohm resolution and a mechanically rigid interface for reading coil resistance.
With all respect to @scottwess, I agree. I own four Flukes, including their top model (I'm an electronics engineer). While they are incredible DMMs which I use every day, I wouldn't use them for coil resistance reading. A milliohm meter or a dedicated meter like the 510 meters will give much better results. For everything else, the Flukes rule.
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20 year Master Tech at a major semiconductor company.
It's all about the operating range... the right tool for the job.
You don't use a 100 psi pressure gauge on a low pressure vapor like C4F6 or BCl3 that condenses above 8 psi and scraps $5k wafers. You get a 0-10 psi gauge.
And you don't use a megohm meter to read resistance on a 0.5 ohm coil.
Your builds can't be dialed if your dial is too dang big.
I have plenty of meters at my disposal too, all calibrated annually per ISO standards... none of which are appropriate for measuring an ecig coil resistance.
It's all about the operating range... the right tool for the job.
You don't use a 100 psi pressure gauge on a low pressure vapor like C4F6 or BCl3 that condenses above 8 psi and scraps $5k wafers. You get a 0-10 psi gauge.
And you don't use a megohm meter to read resistance on a 0.5 ohm coil.
Your builds can't be dialed if your dial is too dang big.
I have plenty of meters at my disposal too, all calibrated annually per ISO standards... none of which are appropriate for measuring an ecig coil resistance.
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I typically see .5 ohm variation from contact resistance even on a Fluke. In fact, probably a $8 meter fresh out of the box would be as good as an old Fluke.
Another anomaly that enters into the coil reading fiasco is rounding. Most Ecig digital meters that have a 510 connection read hundredths to the right of the decimal. Ecig mods generally read in tenths of an ohm. That means a .66 ohm coil will hopefully read .66 on your 510 meter, but your mod will report it to the closest tenth ... .7 ohm.
My Provari and my iSticks read close, but they round the hundredths place up or down to the nearest tenth. That can be the reason that you see .1 variance from actual in mods as opposed to 510 meters with 2 digits to the right of the decimal.
My Provari and my iSticks read close, but they round the hundredths place up or down to the nearest tenth. That can be the reason that you see .1 variance from actual in mods as opposed to 510 meters with 2 digits to the right of the decimal.
And there you have it. that's why I love this forum, it's the collective knowledge of the people here that I learn from. I have always used my meter because I thought it would be more accurate and the way I was taught in school. I Purchased a build station this morning complete with 510 ohm meter and love it. Lot more convenient also. Thanks guys, you have educated me and helped me in my vaping endeavors.
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