will this torch work for oxidizing mesh wicks for a rebuildable atomizer? & a couple other questions pertaining to using rebuildable atomizers

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dragonspirit1185

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I saw another thread where this guy was asking about using a candle and his thread was moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems for New Members area but I have been looking over and over and couldn't find it.
I'll just post it here >.>

I am wanting to get completely into a DIY PVs to where I can rebuild it all myself on the cheap and just pay a larger investment up front so I decided to go with a mesh wick atty tank, preferably this one: GotVapes MonsterMesh™ RBA by HCIGAR-2.4ohm Rebuildable Atomizer

I have been looking at some torches and I was wondering if these would work....
Bernzomatic Butane Micro Torch
Bernzomatic Fat Boy Propane Torch Kit 2-Piece
Turbo Torch
(before someone links me to the Harbor Freight torch for $9, I have already seen it. I might be moving to a place that doesn't have a Harbor Freight store)

Secondly I have seen numerous warnings on sites in the descriptions of these mesh wick atty tanks and it says to use a voltmeter to check the votage first.
If I get a battery with a short circuit protector am I safe?
If I use a variabale voltage battery such as the Ego twist or the Vision Spinner do I still need a voltmeter?
If I do where can I find an accurate one for low cost?
I know since the batteries I want to use have the pulse method so the common voltmeter won't work. I have seen the tankometer but it is too expensive.
I know the idea is to test the voltage under the load of the atomizer.
I know the voltmeter will work with mods with batteries but I don't really want to get into those just yet. Besides they are not very cost effective lol.

I appreciate your help and your time to answer these questions.
Thanks
-Brandon
 
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MrKV

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Stick with a butane fueled torch. The Bernzomatic would be fine.

If I get a battery with a short circuit protector am I safe? Yes.
If I use a variabale voltage battery such as the Ego twist or the Vision Spinner do I still need a voltmeter? I think if you're going to get into the world of RBA's then it would be a must to have a multimeter.
 
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vsummer1

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It is very convenient to have a meter built into your PV with a nice screen to read it. I have noticed that as my coils "break in" sometimes the ohms change a bit. Plus you never know when they are going to finally weaken enough to pop, they just wear out. I tend to keep my coil until it decided to give up rather than just recoil every week or so like I hear some people do. I don't want to mess with it if it is working for me. With the protection you don't have to worry about your battery blowing with the coil.

I use the VV Gripper and the ProVari. The VV Gripper is less expensive and is very easy to use. If you have the money I would always recommend the ProVari. If you get a PV with it built in, you can save the money you would have spent on the meter by just putting into the PV. I do not use my eGo Twists with a rebuildable at all, the thing you twist to change the voltage just isn't as nice as having the screen to read the ohms then set the volts to exactly where you want to be.

There may be other models out there, but those are the ones recommended to me so are what I use.

Good luck and remember that if at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Soon enough you will have it down well enough to just wrap a good coil in a few minutes. Trial and error are your teachers, along with all the videos people before us have been kind enough to make for us.
 

Kemosabe

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harbor freight has a $5 multimeter. i knw you said they might not be near you, but you can get it online.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
the multimeter is also used to test the wick. after oxidization, your wick should show no conductive properties. simply touch both leads to the oxidized wick to see if it conducts. test multiple spots on the wick to be sure theyre arent any conductive spots.
 

Darryll

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harbor freight has a $5 multimeter. i knw you said they might not be near you, but you can get it online.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
the multimeter is also used to test the wick. after oxidization, your wick should show no conductive properties. simply touch both leads to the oxidized wick to see if it conducts. test multiple spots on the wick to be sure theyre arent any conductive spots.

These go on sale for $1.99 occasionally. You can also easily add a 510 connector in place of the transistor port.

MM.jpg
 

TomCatt

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ALWAYS check the resistance of the complete coil/wick when using stainless steel mesh BEFORE applying a voltage to it. You want a 'multimeter' (like pictured in the previous post) set to the OHMS (Ω). The easiest way to measure the resistance of the coil/wick is to assemble it on the RBA and then place the probes on the positive screw/post and the negative screw/post.

For those new to RBAs, I would recommend a minimum of 2 ohm coils to start out with.


Check out the sticky in this forum for additional info and the PV Web Apps page linked in my signature has some calculators that may be of assistance.

Good Luck! :)
 

dragonspirit1185

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Thanks for all the replies guys but I do not want to use battery mods at all. ProVari takes batteries.

The idea for the volmeter I thought was to use it attached to the battery and the atty to see it under the load and everything. Not just to test the voltage of the battery. I don't see how you can test the voltage with the atomizer on there using a multimeter. Unless you are putting the multimeter on the positive and negative at the top of the atty under the cap.....

I want to be able to use a passthrough really and the only passthrough variable voltage one I found was this one: SLB eGo-V True VV Pass Through eGo 3.0-6.0v LCD Screen
Kinda curious if this one does the whole pulse thing...
It's not the 1000-1300mah I was going for it is almost half of that yet it is a passthrough so I can use it at the comp but i might not always be around the computer.
I with they made the ego Twist and the Vision Spinner batteries a passtrough. Maybe put a port on the side to plug the usb into.
I'm not really looking to spend over $40 for a battery.
ProVari's are expensive then I got to buy the batteries then the charger then I have to buy my RBA....no thanks. That will be like $150 for a variable voltage battery mod, the batteries, and the charger, then my atty. I'm looking at more around $70 for my total budget.
 

springfieldarms

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Sorry but you get what you pay for. Every battery has a life span and will fail to hold a charge eventually. The ego batts might die If you short your RBA coil and you try to fire it anyway. The provari won't even let you fire the device if there is a dangerous short. To be honest I sold my provari off a long time ago but it is an excellent device. Spend $200 now with a nice provari or spend it over the course of a few months buying ego stuff. Your call. Passthroughs are nice but with a good 18650 in that provari you'll get a whole days Vape. Some people get a couple of days on em.
 

dragonspirit1185

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I can get 2 Ego variabale voltage 1000mah batts with 2 CE5 clearomizers and the charger for $50-$60. I found one double Ego 1000mah VV kit with Vivi Nova tanks with charger for $45. My friend has a few Ego batteries and has had them for over a year. I really don't think they will go out in a few months. I just can't afford $200 now or anytime in the near future. I'm currently using a KR808D-1 kit and each battery is only 280mah. I somtimes have charge one and switch to a full one. Mostly when I'm just tasting juice mixes I'm messing with.
I really don't see the point in paying all that money for something when I can get 2 PVs for ¼-½ of the price of a $200 ProVari.
I was however looking into the Lava Tube but I've seen to many case of the caps getting lost or broke. If I was to spend a good deal I would go with the ZMax for just over $100.
I don't think I will get a nice mod for a long time :p
 

dragonspirit1185

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Well I'm being told 2 different things :eek:
I've been told the Ego and Vision VV batts have short protection. I'm pretty sure I've even read it in descriptions >.>
I plan on getting a multimeter so I can see the ohms before I use it fire it up.
I have chnaged my mind on the RBA and will just use a mesh wick in the Vivi Nova or CE5 for now.
I don't really see how I could short it out since all you have to do is make sure you oxidize the wick thoroughly, do some liquid burns make sure the coils are spaced well, make sure the negative and positive are insulated from each other. I don't see how I could short anything as long as it is done right...right? o_O
 

Skipper2101

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ok i have 5 posts so far so take it fwiw. i use use a RBA and oxidize the heck out of the ss mesh wicks, yet in my experience(all of 2 weeks with my RBA) shorts can and will occur from knocking the unit around or adjusting the wick although i vaping away right now with no probs whatsoever. and yes i test with a meter and i use a provari. i personally took the information from other members with far more knowledge than me and have not been steered in the wrong direction. again your choice. best of luck.
 

Monoxxide

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Yes they have a short protection, its a little diode thingy wich will burst open after a short, Ego wont work anymore after or you need to replace that little thing. I have no experience with rebuilding a nova but after 5-6 months with my genies i still have the occasional short while setting up. A cheap 3.7 mod might be smart to build/test your setup on before pop them on egos.
 

dragonspirit1185

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Monoxxide:7838329 said:
Yes they have a short protection, its a little diode thingy wich will burst open after a short, Ego wont work anymore after or you need to replace that little thing. I have no experience with rebuilding a nova but after 5-6 months with my genies i still have the occasional short while setting up. A cheap 3.7 mod might be smart to build/test your setup on before pop them on egos.

I just looked it up again on the Ego C Twist 1000mah and it says it has short circuit protection and if there is a short it shuts the battery down until the short is gone. Once the short is fixed it will operate again.
 

WillyB

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ALWAYS check the resistance of the complete coil/wick when using stainless steel mesh BEFORE applying a voltage to it. You want a 'multimeter' (like pictured in the previous post) set to the OHMS (Ω). The easiest way to measure the resistance of the coil/wick is to assemble it on the RBA and then place the probes on the positive screw/post and the negative screw/post.
Naw, check your ohms at the atty connector where it will attach to the PV. You ALWAYS want to check the resistance of the complete assembly/path/circuit, not just the coil/wick.
 

Rule62

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I've been using Provaris long before rebuildables became popular. I had 2 of them even before the Lavatubes, and other such tube mods came out. But VV devices, such as the Provari, are, to me a valuable tool when working with rebuildables. In fact, I can't imagine working on them without one. They are multi purpose. Not only am I able to determine resistance; but I can vary the voltage, not only for finding the sweet spot when vaping; but for checking and fine tuning my coils as well. If I were to fire a new coil at whatever voltage I'll probably eventually be vaping it at, the coil would probably pop; especially if there's a hot leg between the top coil wrap and the center post. I'll start out at a very low voltage setting, and gradually bump the voltage up, as I'm fine tuning the coil. If I get a short along the way, the Provari will simply display an error, and I'm doing no damage to the device. Any protected variable voltage device, but especially the Provari, is money well spent, IMO.
 
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