30 gauge nichrome IMO is the best wire gauge.. The ohms are a hair higher than 28ga kanthal. 28ga kanthal 5.27Ohms/ft ,,,, 30ga Nichrome 6.68Ohms/ft
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WIP - 3x 18650 battery box from china -> DNA20 mod....hopefully
- Thread starter shortyjacobs
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Welp, nearing the end of day one, status update.
This thing is pretty nice. Spent most of the day on my kayfun 3.1 ES clone, with a 0.9 ohm 10 wrap 28 ga contact coil, pushing around 18 watts. It performed nicely, but the kayfun was driving me nuts with either dry hits or gurgling, (I go a lot from 73 degree inside to -10 outside, and kayfuns hate huge temp swings).
So I started tinkering when I got home. Made an autodripper out of an AGA-T2 using XC-116, around 1.4 ohm with, er, 8 or 9 wraps of 28ga. Nice flavor, but the wicking of the XC-116 just couldn't keep up.
Switched to an AGA-T2 with 7x7 SS rope sleeved in XC-116 and, um, I think 7 wraps of 30 awg, coming in around 2.1 ohms. Now this works pretty damn nice.....think I'll stick with it for a little while. Would like to try out dual coils on it sooner or later on my Kraken clone, but I don't know what kind of performance I'll get out of them....right now it's set up at ~0.6 ohm on my Nemy clone, and that works fine....but the DNA20 won't even fire it.
One thing's for sure - this isn't a Weekender mod for me, at least. I'm down to only a few percent battery power, (granted, I'm firing the 2 ohm coil at 6.6 volts, 20 watts, and I think the DNA uses the current atty to determine battery remaining). But that's what I expected. I easily go through 2+ NCR18650PDs in a mech mod any given day, so burning through 2 in the DNA is reasonable. I think I'd need one of those 10,000+ mAh battery packs to pull off a weekend.
This thing is pretty nice. Spent most of the day on my kayfun 3.1 ES clone, with a 0.9 ohm 10 wrap 28 ga contact coil, pushing around 18 watts. It performed nicely, but the kayfun was driving me nuts with either dry hits or gurgling, (I go a lot from 73 degree inside to -10 outside, and kayfuns hate huge temp swings).
So I started tinkering when I got home. Made an autodripper out of an AGA-T2 using XC-116, around 1.4 ohm with, er, 8 or 9 wraps of 28ga. Nice flavor, but the wicking of the XC-116 just couldn't keep up.
Switched to an AGA-T2 with 7x7 SS rope sleeved in XC-116 and, um, I think 7 wraps of 30 awg, coming in around 2.1 ohms. Now this works pretty damn nice.....think I'll stick with it for a little while. Would like to try out dual coils on it sooner or later on my Kraken clone, but I don't know what kind of performance I'll get out of them....right now it's set up at ~0.6 ohm on my Nemy clone, and that works fine....but the DNA20 won't even fire it.
One thing's for sure - this isn't a Weekender mod for me, at least. I'm down to only a few percent battery power, (granted, I'm firing the 2 ohm coil at 6.6 volts, 20 watts, and I think the DNA uses the current atty to determine battery remaining). But that's what I expected. I easily go through 2+ NCR18650PDs in a mech mod any given day, so burning through 2 in the DNA is reasonable. I think I'd need one of those 10,000+ mAh battery packs to pull off a weekend.
You should try lower mah and higher amp rated 18650's....I'm not sure what the specs are on the batteries you are using but in general the higher mah 18650's don't perform well in higher current vaping.
I had 6000mah 65c lipo DNA mod and it would last around 4 days vaping a lot at lower wattage and probably a day and a half at higher wattage.
If you checked vdrop on those batteries under load on a mech mod I think you would be surprised.
I had 6000mah 65c lipo DNA mod and it would last around 4 days vaping a lot at lower wattage and probably a day and a half at higher wattage.
If you checked vdrop on those batteries under load on a mech mod I think you would be surprised.
Cool mod, shorty!! Great job!
I have this case but with dual 18650 slots, not 3 18650 slots. Haven't done anything with it yet, but thanks for the tips for working with the case.
I had breadboarded this a while back when I was tinkering with reverse polarity, and yes plan #1 works (I also used a fuse just prior to each FET).
One common fuse/FET when using dual parallel batts does not protect the batts when one is inserted backwards, but does protect the DNA.
With a fuse/FET combo wired to each batt, when one batt is inserted backwards and the other inserted correctly, the fuse of the batt that is inserted backwards trips and gets hot hot hot to the touch, but the entire circuit, including the batts, the FETs, and the DNA are protected.
Voltage drop difference with and without the fuse/FET combo on each batt was minimal - ranged from 0.03v (higher input voltage) to 0.06v (lower input voltage).
Both batts inserted correctly...
Both batts inserted backwards... both red LEDs are lit indicating both batts are inserted backwards...
One batt inserted backwards, the other batt inserted correctly...red LED is lit indicating which batt is inserted backwards... I had left it this way for about 3' (lol no I didn't press the fire button for 3' - only a couple of times - and to take this pic - to see how the DNA would handle firing when one batt is reversed), then pulled the batts. Then inserted both correctly and no damage done.
Using a hot spring is a great idea. I wish it came with a base though.
Did you use this hot spring in your mod? Did you test it to see how fast it collapses? Does the DNA still work or did it get fried?
I have this case but with dual 18650 slots, not 3 18650 slots. Haven't done anything with it yet, but thanks for the tips for working with the case.
plan #1 won't work as drawn, will it? Here's what it looks like with one reversed batt:
What will happen here? I have a wire going from the neg of one batt to FET1 Gate, and from the positive of the other battery to FET2 Gate, but those wires are also connected to each other.....Do both FETs fire, does neither fire? does the whole thing melt down? I really don't know much about how FETs work.
I had breadboarded this a while back when I was tinkering with reverse polarity, and yes plan #1 works (I also used a fuse just prior to each FET).
One common fuse/FET when using dual parallel batts does not protect the batts when one is inserted backwards, but does protect the DNA.
With a fuse/FET combo wired to each batt, when one batt is inserted backwards and the other inserted correctly, the fuse of the batt that is inserted backwards trips and gets hot hot hot to the touch, but the entire circuit, including the batts, the FETs, and the DNA are protected.
Voltage drop difference with and without the fuse/FET combo on each batt was minimal - ranged from 0.03v (higher input voltage) to 0.06v (lower input voltage).
Both batts inserted correctly...
Both batts inserted backwards... both red LEDs are lit indicating both batts are inserted backwards...
One batt inserted backwards, the other batt inserted correctly...red LED is lit indicating which batt is inserted backwards... I had left it this way for about 3' (lol no I didn't press the fire button for 3' - only a couple of times - and to take this pic - to see how the DNA would handle firing when one batt is reversed), then pulled the batts. Then inserted both correctly and no damage done.
Using a hot spring is a great idea. I wish it came with a base though.
Did you use this hot spring in your mod? Did you test it to see how fast it collapses? Does the DNA still work or did it get fried?
Great info Mamu!!!
Luckily I have been fortunate enough not reverse a battery on a DNA, but if memory serves from talking to Brandon....A brief hit usually takes out a component used for the battery display, so I believe the screen still works but the battery level does not. I believe extended RP takes out the whole board.
Luckily I have been fortunate enough not reverse a battery on a DNA, but if memory serves from talking to Brandon....A brief hit usually takes out a component used for the battery display, so I believe the screen still works but the battery level does not. I believe extended RP takes out the whole board.
Wow, awesome info mamu. I didn't have the patience, time, or guts to breadboard it, (only have one dna20, didn't want to risk frying it I'm an experiment). I ended up not using a protection circuit, which I'm still a bit iffy on. No hot springs either, but with the helix hot springs it'd be an easy modification to this mod. The hot springs wouldn't prevent DNA damage, but would stop a battery meltdown if only one batt was reversed.
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