WIP Copper and Silver bottomfire mod

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gravewolf

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I have to admit that I love the GG and the Caravela, but since they are a bit beyond my budget I try my best to at least make my own versions of them. I've started work on this mod last night and since I have a few extra parts from my last 2 mods I'm actually almost finished. The mechanism is actually a lot simpler than I thought and I'm actually kicking myself for not making this type of mod sooner. I'm still thinking if I should make this a steampunk or something else. I'm surprised at how smaller it will be compared to my other 18350 mods.

The body is made of copper and the bottom cap and thread are silver. The bottom firing button locks by screwing it up onto the bottom cap.
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gravewolf

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I'm still deciding if I should leave it like that. The top cap with the 510 threads haven't been totally secured yet since it would be a pain to remove if I start adding designs.

@asdaq
hahahaha.....Oh dude if I ever did that my ship would sink to the bottom of the ocean from the storm of angry fans. I just want my own version of it to help me from wanting the real one badly.
 

gravewolf

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Yeah, I know, just kidding. From the promo video you could take away that it will stay shinier if you only handle it in white gloves:



I was abstaining from seeing that mod! How could you further the hunger in my soul to possess something that is beyond my reach! Enough of your torture please, no more..... I beg of you. Do not tempt me any further! :p

I didn't know that the brass in that mod was unprotected, my sweaty hands will surely desecrate that immaculate polish. Then again I can live with white gloves as long as I can get one! :)
 

gravewolf

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The main tube is at 22mm wide and 55mm high without the bottom cap with the button. Some allowance is needed for some play for the battery since it is not suspended by a spring inside. The negative terminal pushes the battery to the positive terminal to complete the circuit. To get rid of some scratches and make it shine you have to use different grades of sandpaper starting from 220 grit all the way to 600 grit, you don't need to go to a 1000 grit sandpaper with metal. After sanding I use a buffing motor to polish it starting with an emery bar compound , wash it with soap and water to remove compound build up and then finally use a jeweller's rouge compound for the final shine. If you don't have a buffing motor, you can use a raw leather hide similar to what barbers use with their shaving blade and some metal polish cream. You just rub the metal onto the leather back and forth and you'll notice that it will start to get shiny. I actually use this method more for sterling silver since this is a bit more gentler than a buffing motor.
 

bapgood

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Thanks, I finally got it....operator error...I noticed copper is more sensitive than stainless....with my stainless connectors I have been going 200-500-800 and some flitz polish and they look pretty darn good.

It's all a loss right now....I had one of the parts I was making catch and come out of the lathe chuck....ruining the part just as I was finishing....frustration and a hammer made sure it was properly ruined.

I really like the look of the mods like you are building, but I also like the tech that a DNA20 provides. Today's failed mod was an attempt to blend the two. It won't be the size of this mod of yours but it will share a similar look. That is if I can pull it off.

I have a buffing motor and a use the lathe also.
 

gravewolf

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I'm sorry to hear about that mod, we are similar in the way we vent out our frustration. I usually go hammer crazy too when I get too frustrated with my work but I do keep something beside me to destroy so I won't vent it on what I'm working on. Yeah you can go into a motor buffing frenzy with stainless steel. Copper and the other softer metals require a lot more care when using a buffing motor. You have to be very particular in what kind of wheels you are using. With softer metals only a little bit of pressure is needed to push them onto the wheels of the motor as too much pressure will actually damage the surface. I am sure you can pull off this work since I can tell that you have a lot of love for this hobby. I'm also interested in using a DNA20 for one of my projects but sadly it isn't available in my country and it seems a bit pricey for my current budget.

Also be careful in using softer metals in laithe's or other machines, they are not good candidates for machining. Brass is a better metal for such machines since it is a bit harder.
 
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bapgood

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Today was at least half way successful....got the top and bottom copper pieces made...but the stainless tube I was using was too thin, so I need to get some decent tube.

Sorry for the inch dims....I want something for around the house/office that isn't so top heavy and wount tip over so easy. So my mod will be about 1.5" OD and 3" tall with some good weight in the bottom....2400mah lipo and DNA20...and some trickery

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bapgood

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Nice clean work, that must have been a real pain to make with a laithe considering how soft it is. Are those the top and bottom caps? Are you gonna put threads in them because I would actually not recommend it.

Thanks! They weren't to bad after I figured out the speed they wanted and that they like a lot of cutting fluid.

Yes, top and bottom caps

The design I have in mine wont need them to be threaded, but I did thread the part where the 510 connector will go and it was very soft. I had planned on using a nut anyways like below, but I just wanted to see how it felt.

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gravewolf

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Thanks! They weren't to bad after I figured out the speed they wanted and that they like a lot of cutting fluid.

Yes, top and bottom caps

The design I have in mine wont need them to be threaded, but I did thread the part where the 510 connector will go and it was very soft. I had planned on using a nut anyways like below, but I just wanted to see how it felt.

F7A32579-0810-4B99-AB86-07EB47338274-228-0000048DFA9E7B2C_zps38920a8c.jpg

Are you planning on using magnets to fasten the caps? You can still use threads by inserting threaded brass in the copper and then soldering it together. That way you can get threads on it and also reinforce the caps. Due to my clumsy hands I've noticed that copper does not like being dropped and will dent easily with little force. I'm actually rather ...... tonight since the mod that I am working on was a failure. I'm just gonna cool off a bit and try again tomorrow since I've been wanting to do this kind of tube design. Hopefully I'll figure it out or I'll just move on to another project.
 

bapgood

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Are you planning on using magnets to fasten the caps? You can still use threads by inserting threaded brass in the copper and then soldering it together. That way you can get threads on it and also reinforce the caps. Due to my clumsy hands I've noticed that copper does not like being dropped and will dent easily with little force. I'm actually rather ...... tonight since the mod that I am working on was a failure. I'm just gonna cool off a bit and try again tomorrow since I've been wanting to do this kind of tube design. Hopefully I'll figure it out or I'll just move on to another project.

Your asking for all my secrets :D....secrets mainly because I'm not sure if they will work...yeah magnets....I will model it up and show you...that will be easier than trying to explain.

I might have accidentally be planning on a doing something that may help with dents....at least deep ones...the others are just character :)
 
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