WIP Steampunk Mod

[asdaq]

Asdaq....that is the unfinished 510 end

The bottom is still undetermined both length of tube and button....the caravela approach is slick but requires reverse cut threads and that's more work than I'm looking to do. I have an idea using magnets to hold the button in the fire and lock position...headed into hobby lobby to see if I can find some small and strong enough

Does the caravela actually have reverse cut threads? Does the GG? It doesn't seem so necessary as you can vary the degree of tightening like with tools or by finger strength.

 

[bapgood]

I watched the English review several times and yes I believe the locking ring uses reverse cut threads (watch closely as he takes it apart and puts it back together) and between the spring and reverse cut threads it seems like a very nice tool-less design.

I was getting close on my design Sunday when my lathe went out with a bang and ruined the main piece at the same time....so no lathe and no mod

 

[asdaq]

Oh no, is it something fixable with the lathe? No bodily harm I hope.

 

[bapgood]

Oh no, is it something fixable with the lathe? No bodily harm I hope.

Yeah the new part is called Smithy Granite 1340 MAX ....They are having a pretty good sale and this would likely suit 99% of anything I would need/want. I love a lot of the time saving features on this machine.

I think a gear or something in the HF lathe let go....no bodily harm....the motor still works but chuck doesn't spin....I was very angry when it happened so I just walked away and have been giving it the silent treatment

 

[asdaq]

Ah, so is this a political failure planned by design? There is a Jim on UK vapers who was having similar troubles with a made in China lathe, critical parts made if plastic I believe. A smithy shouldn't give you that problem. Can I call dibs on some parts from the HF? Like the chuck?

 

[bapgood]

Ah, so is this a political failure planned by design? There is a Jim on UK vapers who was having similar troubles with a made in China lathe, critical parts made if plastic I believe. A smithy shouldn't give you that problem. Can I call dibs on some parts from the HF? Like the chuck?

I can't blame anybody but myself....I just started taking it apart but the problem is in the head (which I was afraid of)....I would kind of be surprised but not surprised at the same time if there is plastic parts in there....if that makes sense at all....it's been a while since I was inside the head.

Just curious what would you do with the chuck?

 

[bapgood]

Sure enough it is plastic....I think I will order two....it doesn't really bother me that it is plastic, just wish it was easier to get to

 

[asdaq]

Could you replace it with a metal one?

I would get the chuck to work with a drill or drill press.

Don't worry, I most likely wont.

 

[bapgood]

Could you replace it with a metal one?

I would get the chuck to work with a drill or drill press.

Don't worry, I most likely wont.

Yeah they make metal replacement gears....but then what brakes? I will probably just get two replacement plastic gears, because if I went metal I would want to replace the other two gear in the head with metal.

The wife bought off way too easy on the smithy and now I'm second guessing myself.....I think she is playing mind tricks on me

 

[Big Mac]

I know that you know this already Bap, but when something like this happens and we get angry, sometimes me forget the obvious.....while everything is apart, check those other plastic gears, get a good look at them. If one stressed during normal operation, you may have another taking the same route. Good luck bro.

...I think she is playing mind tricks on me

Of course she playing mind games! My wife and I have been married almost 20 yrs now. When I mentioned your post, she mumbled something about "wife manual, page 221, paragraph 24, subsection 12, good for her". Not sure what she meant....

 

[bapgood]

I know that you know this already Bap, but when something like this happens and we get angry, sometimes me forget the obvious.....while everything is apart, check those other plastic gears, get a good look at them. If one stressed during normal operation, you may have another taking the same route. Good luck bro.



Of course she playing mind games! My wife and I have been married almost 20 yrs now. When I mentioned your post, she mumbled something about "wife manual, page 221, paragraph 24, subsection 12, good for her". Not sure what she meant....

I did look at the other gears and they looked good, but I will examine closer as that is a good point. But I'm going to the order the replacement gear and then a spare parts kit that includes the other gear plus some other stuff (I could have sworn I bought the spare parts kit at one time...for $30 its a nobrainer).

If you get your hands on that manual, please send me a copy

 

[gravewolf]

I just took a few days off and you guys have been quite busy lol. I've been modifying my current mods before starting other projects and also been kept busy upgrading my friends mechanical mods with silver contact pins. This was a hectic week for me and I'm dying to start making some mods again. I just hope I don't have anymore interruptions.

@bapgood
I use clockwise threads on my bottomfire mod, the reason why they stay still even if I turn the switch into a locking position is because there is an o-ring under the threads to give it more traction to prevent it from loosening.

 

[bapgood]

I'm trying to come up with a simple and clean way to go from fire (gap) to locked (no gap) without a visible ring....like below

 

[gravewolf]

@bapgood
You can machine some space underneath the threads where you can slip an o-ring inside like the rba atomizer threads.

 

[bapgood]

@bapgood
You can machine some space underneath the threads where you can slip an o-ring inside like the rba atomizer threads.

I agree...and that is a simple and good idea....if I wasn't trying to not use threads.

The only solutions I can come up with are more complicated than threading....so I will probably go the threading route and possibly use your o-ring idea.

Magnets are great but they allow free rotation....which makes a turn lock kinda hard....flipping the bottom button over would be a simple solution but I think it would be cumbersome and way less than elegant....however I think it works great for the pipes.

Now hopefully the lathe parts show up today or tomorrow.

 

[gravewolf]

I agree...and that is a simple and good idea....if I wasn't trying to not use threads.

The only solutions I can come up with are more complicated than threading....so I will probably go the threading route and possibly use your o-ring idea.

Magnets are great but they allow free rotation....which makes a turn lock kinda hard....flipping the bottom button over would be a simple solution but I think it would be cumbersome and way less than elegant....however I think it works great for the pipes.

Now hopefully the lathe parts show up today or tomorrow.

Here's the disassemble firing pin of the bottomfire mod, I hope this helps

 

[bapgood]

Here's the disassemble firing pin of the bottomfire mod, I hope this helps

Thanks gravewolf.....after lots of wasted time and ideas (my Achilles heal)....I have given up on the idea to not have an external collar....the method you have used is simple and effective.

So here is how I intend to proceed....Thanks

 

[gravewolf]

@bapgood
Yep, keeping it simple makes things much easier to build. Don't forget there's a groove underneath the pin and also there's some teeth under that pin which stops it from rotating when you're turning the button to a locking position. Dang it dude I wish I could make computer models like you do

 

[bapgood]

@bapgood
Yep, keeping it simple makes things much easier to build. Don't forget there's a groove underneath the pin that pushes the battery and also there's some teeth under that pin which stops it from rotating when you're turning the button to a locking position. Dang it dude I wish I could make computer models like you do

Is the groove for battery venting? I haven't quite decided what I'm going to do for that....thinking maybe just holes around the inner perimeter...similar to the carevela

I was going to try a serrated washer under the pin (for ease).....if it doesn't work I will cut some teeth (or try at least )

If I had the Smithy I could mill a hex into the dividing plate and use some of the hex stock I have....then I could even go collar-less

 

[gravewolf]

Is the groove for battery venting? I haven't quite decided what I'm going to do for that....thinking maybe just holes around the inner perimeter...similar to the carevela

I was going to try a serrated washer under the pin (for ease).....if it doesn't work I will cut some teeth (or try at least )

Nope, there's actually 4 venting holes outside the perimeter of the grooves. The grooves sole purpose is to stop the negative pin from rotating. I used a rotary tool to cut the grooves since I was supposed to make them BEFORE I soldered it to the lower cap It's getting harder to work in the shop these days cause it's almost summer but it's already so hot, it's like I'm working inside a sauna bath!