Wire gauge differences

[Soignee]

Hello all, I am getting ready to re up on Kanthal. Can I get some ideas about differences/benefits of different wire gauges please. I have worked with Kanthal A1 in 30, 28 and 27 gauges on a TOBH and kayfun Lite+ V2. I'm wondering about the benefits of smaller gauge vs higher gauge and what I should really be putting in my toolbox. I'm not interested in super sub ohm just flavor, so down to maybe .6 ohm's. I also power from a Mech and Vamo V5, using VTC5's. I'm not rich so my devices can't change, but wire is inexpensive. What say you?
TIA

 

[bholcomb22]

IF you enjoy going down to only about .6 ohms or higher 26 gauge would probably be the lowest gauge wire I would put in the tool box. Anything lower in gauge will just be unnecessary.

I have experimented with all sorts of gauges in my kayfun, and IMO 28 gauge is hands down the best for the kayfun. (that's just my opinion).

With your target resistance, I think 26 gauge is probably the only thing I would add to the arsenal.

 

[State O' Flux]

Hello all, I am getting ready to re up on Kanthal. Can I get some ideas about differences/benefits of different wire gauges please.
I'm wondering about the benefits of smaller gauge vs higher gauge and what I should really be putting in my toolbox. I'm not interested in super sub ohm just flavor, so down to maybe .6 ohm's.

If you follow the logic that there is an optimal wire gauge (or two) for any range of resistance and coil(s) layout - based on wire surface area - then it's much easier to determine wire size.

With any atomizer, we want an optimized surface area / heat dwell or lag time and an adequate wire temperature.
Some calculators refer to these variables as "heat flux" (peak wire temperature) and "heat capacity"... the dwell or lag time of the wire to reach operating temperature. We also have the physical and electrical limitations of our atomizer and our power supply.

Dampmaskin, the creator of Steam Engine ("Dampmaskin" is Norwegian for "steam engine" ;-) ) recently added an interesting feature to the program... a simple color code that tells you at a glance if you have an optimized wire gauge for a build.
"Green" is an optimum balance.
Too thick a wire and we move towards "blue", or too high a heat capacity value (slow to heat).
Too thin a wire and our build moves into the "red" zone, indicating too high a heat flux value (rapid heating but low surface area).

So... let's use your 0.6Ω reference. Using fairly common mandrel and leg values of 2mm and 3mm respectively... 28 gauge is considered optimal for a 0.6Ω, dual coil build... in the green zone, with 8+/- wraps.
Go with thicker wire and the wrap count increases, heat capacity goes up, heat flux goes down.
Go with thinner wire and the wrap count decreases... heat capacity goes down, heat flux goes up.

Now... we may have reasons for wanting a lower or higher wire temperature - a faster or slower heat lag time... so this color code system, although quite useful... should not be considered a chiseled in stone reference.

For my needs, from parallel quads to singles, with resistances between 0.3Ω and 1.5Ω... I find 24 through 29 gauge will provide coils with a nice balance of surface area / heat dwell time.

 

[Soignee]

Dampmaskin, the creator of Steam Engine ("Dampmaskin" is Norwegian for "steam engine" ;-) ) recently added an interesting feature to the program... a simple color code that tells you at a glance if you have an optimized wire gauge for a build.
"Green" is an optimum balance.
Too thick a wire and we move towards "blue", or too high a heat capacity value (slow to heat).
Too thin a wire and our build moves into the "red" zone, indicating too high a heat flux value (rapid heating but low surface area).


Now... we may have reasons for wanting a lower or higher wire temperature - a faster or slower heat lag time... so this color code system, although quite useful... should not be considered a chiseled in stone reference.

I just began playing with this feature, changing watts and gauge size. I wasn't really sure where "optimum" was and you've given me a good starting point to figure it out. Thanks!

 

[State O' Flux]

I just began playing with this feature, changing watts and gauge size. I wasn't really sure where "optimum" was and you've given me a good starting point to figure it out. Thanks!

Sure thing... but thank Dampmaskin as well, for being such a clever and helpful boy. ;-)

Watts? You must be running a wattage adjustable APV. As I don't use regulated mods, watts aren't much of a concern for my needs. My only concern is the parity between sufficient battery available current and desired resistance.

Before the advent of modeling programs, my goal has been 7~11 wraps on a 2-3mm mandrel... that range being my personal "optimum" for surface area. When calculating possible builds, if a desired resistance goal were to go above or below that wrap/surface area range, I'd adjust wire size until I'm in my preferred coil count.

With the SE system, although my higher wrap counts may often indicate as slightly colder than SE optimal, it's interesting that the color code frequently coincides with a more simple, practicality based, surface area system.

Just more "rules"... all meant to be broken down and played with.

 

[DaveP]

Sure thing... but thank Dampmaskin as well, for being such a clever and helpful boy. ;-)

Watts? You must be running a wattage adjustable APV. As I don't use regulated mods, watts aren't much of a concern for my needs. My only concern is the parity between sufficient battery available current and desired resistance.

Before the advent of modeling programs, my goal has been 7~11 wraps on a 2-3mm mandrel... that range being my personal "optimum" for surface area. When calculating possible builds, if a desired resistance goal were to go above or below that wrap/surface area range, I'd adjust wire size until I'm in my preferred coil count.

With the SE system, although my higher wrap counts may often indicate as slightly colder than SE optimal, it's interesting that the color code frequently coincides with a more simple, practicality based, surface area system.

Just more "rules"... all meant to be broken down and played with.

If you're a mech vaper, watt calculations are only good for comparing notes with VW vapers. Watts are always in play if you generate heat. We voltage guys just judge the heat by the vapor we get and the warmth of the draw.

 

[Soignee]

Sure thing... but thank Dampmaskin as well, for being such a clever and helpful boy. ;-)

Watts? You must be running a wattage adjustable APV. As I don't use regulated mods, watts aren't much of a concern for my needs. My only concern is the parity between sufficient battery available current and desired resistance.

Before the advent of modeling programs, my goal has been 7~11 wraps on a 2-3mm mandrel... that range being my personal "optimum" for surface area. When calculating possible builds, if a desired resistance goal were to go above or below that wrap/surface area range, I'd adjust wire size until I'm in my preferred coil count.

With the SE system, although my higher wrap counts may often indicate as slightly colder than SE optimal, it's interesting that the color code frequently coincides with a more simple, practicality based, surface area system.

Just more "rules"... all meant to be broken down and played with.

I'm using both regulated and unregulated, so watts come into play with the Kayfun/Vamo. Unregulated at .6 I'm starting at around 29 watts but by the time a VTC5 gets to 3.5v it's down by 9 watts or so...not really so important as it's still pretty high for some juices.

I've said it before in other posts, if he would link a donation page, I'd give him money! His hard work has helped me immeasurably! +1 for the Steam Engine!