Wizard Labs is still down!! Any other suggestions?

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salemgold

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Hiya salemgold!

Whoops! I had said they "out again" but I should have said they were "closed again"; Either way, I only meant you couldn't get some right at the time. I like that he suspends wholesale orders to keep the retail going - works out well for DIYers anyway :p

Have you tried the nic since they changed their processing? I guess there's an additional step/purification that happens now and I was wondering if the flavor profile changed at all, or just got lighter. I did like the RTS I had (heck, I learned about it from my then-favorite juice vendor and I sure liked his eliquid), but the smell/taste was uncharacteristic to me. I haven't heard much at all in terms of taste comparisons since the change over which was about a month I go I think? Just seems odd that I haven't bumped into anyone commenting on that, though I haven't strayed much from my subscriptions lately.

ETA:

PS, Kurt likes lots of nics for various things:

True but I never mentioned "like" I am talking about purity.

Cyrus, the %s for all three of those manufacturers look good, from a purely %nic standpoint. However, MFS is the only one I found full lab analysis posted. Its the rest of the 100% that is key. At 99.92%, it is not likely RTS has contaminants that are exceeding what AEMSA would certify. If that is truly what he is getting, Randy is producing about the most pure nicotine around. It is probably beyond pharma-grade requirements in purity. MFS specs are also quite good, in terms of contaminants. Looks like everything would pass. ECX would probably pass too, but I would have to see the full analysis.

The MFS analysis is, however, from 2011. Chris no doubt has documentation for current lots, but they would each have to be checked. The posted documentation would be no where near enough for AEMSA certification, but I think all three of those vendors are very fastidious about the quality of their nic, so what the public sees is probably not at all the end of their stories.

This is from a purely AEMSA standpoint. If you are not able to tell the difference between MFS and WL, then Chris has probably changed his supplier in the last few years, but this is purely speculation. ECX is a very clean nic in my experience. Has a sharp taste, but it is pretty faint. Not as faint as WL regular, let alone Ice, but I do very much enjoy it. In terms of accuracy of nic levels, I have worked with two of these vendors, but they are all three spot on for nic levels.

Even with all the hullabaloo about Box Elder, I would recommend it. Too bad Brad is only taking orders for 2 L or more, and I believe only 100 mg. But I am savoring my stash...I think in terms of taste itself, I like it best, but some are not fond of it. Of all those discussed here, it would have the strongest taste (save for my 2010 MFS), but it just works for me. Sort of like a sharp "Hi there!!" I have only tested a couple samples from him since the whole debacle, but he seems to have gotten his house in order, and the specs I have seen look quite good. For this I am truly thankful. But then, the quality of his product was never in question with me, just the nic accuracy.
 

blackHelix

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A while back I was really into learning about the extraction process to make my own nicotine & flavor concentrates. I am fully confident that had I gone that route (and even if I had the proper equipment), I wouldn't be here typing this right now lol. The whole process is beyond my "add a+b+c and mix" skill-set.

Here's to not taking any chemistry electives in university :)
 

Orobas

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A while back I was really into learning about the extraction process to make my own nicotine & flavor concentrates. I am fully confident that had I gone that route (and even if I had the proper equipment), I wouldn't be here typing this right now lol. The whole process is beyond my "add a+b+c and mix" skill-set.

Here's to not taking any chemistry electives in university :)

I dunno, organic chemistry teaches you how to make spirits, too.

Jugs of mead and jugs of PG and VG in my house right now.
 

JUDGMENT AFFIRMED

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Thanks, I know, im good, not one drop lost.
Put the respirator and gloves in the picture so people would know. I do the liquids in my basement shop where i also have exhaust fan to the outside..........its a wood shop also.
I labeled the RTS and Wizard, but it will be months before i get to them....got much to use up first.[/QUOTE]"]
Thanks, I know, im good, not one drop lost.
Put the respirator and gloves in the picture so people would know. I do the liquids in my basement shop where i also have exhaust fan to the outside..........its a wood shop also.
I labeled the RTS and Wizard, but it will be months before i get to them....got much to use up first.


Thanks salemgold, Thanks Shilo
I think its going to work :D
 

JUDGMENT AFFIRMED

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tj99959




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Rocketman nailed it!
There are two possibles:
#1 the long center post of the Nova pushed the center post of the eGo down shorting out the switch.
#2 the coil in the Nova atomizer is pushed to the side causing a partial short. This will blow the mosfet ckt in the eGo.


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08-24-2012, 09:02 AM#15




Rocketman




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IT never goes over well when you pass the blame for a failure back to the user. Sorry about that.

Some things to watch out for is to NEVER over tighten a carto onto an eGo. NEVER. Once, and it's over. Expecially it the outer shell contact of the carto is a little long or the end is a little damaged. Cartos damage eGos more than any other cause.

I also hate hearing about the IGNORANT recommendation to pry up the center pin on an eGo.

The pin is designed to not rotate in the insulator, to keep from twisting the little wire going from the pin to the circuit board inside. It also has a flange on top to PRESS AGAINST the insulator. If you pry it up the carto will just push it down and turn it in the process. The raised pin will not put enough pressure against the carto center pin to make a good electrical connection. A lifted pin may actually SHORT OUT against the shell of the carto, killing your eGo in the process. Prying it up also sets you up for juice leakage into the eGo circuitry. It's not so much the juice, but the hygroscopic nature of PG/VG that absorbs water from the air causing internal connections to corrode. Play with the center pin of the carto if you must.

Troubleshooting eGO FAILURES via the internet makes for an interesting read. Some of the "5 click ON/OFF" suggestions are a waste of good bandwidth If it's flashing at you, it's ON. If it starts flashing with a carto on before you even press the button, it has a shorted Mosfet, and will not work. Oh, and the eGo will never know it has an OPEN carto on it.

If all the above was too complicated just remember,
don't eff with the eGo center pin,
don't over tighten a carto, not even once,
funny flashing means something is wrong.



EDIT:
Most eGo users don't seem to either have a voltmeter, or really care to troubleshoot electrical problems with one. Fine, it's complicated How about a cheap one dollar 3 ohm carto, or a 4 dollar 2.5 ohm atty? Don't like vaping those? Fine, keep it for troubleshooting. 2.5 to 3 ohms is a safe way to troubleshoot. Lightly screw it in until it makes connection and see it the eGo 'Likes' it. Now, if your eGo doesn't 'Like' your fancy dancy tank, it's probably not the eGo that is at fault.

People have learned not to get caught with only one battery or only one tank, but what about one $3 charger?


Last edited by Rocketman; 08-24-2012 at 09:29 AM.

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Originally Posted by awd1

I had a bit of a scare when my Joyetech 650mah battery with a vivinova tank started atomising by itself beside me
 
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