Woodvil customizing/modifications

[Quigsworth]

I waterproofed my woodvil and decided to test it out tonight I love the electronics but hate how susceptible they are to juice damage, not going to be a problem any more I think

What product did you end up going with? liquid electrical tape? Did you dip then install?...If there's no heat disipation issues this could be silver bullet...well done!

How did you treat your tact switches?...I've found moisture can be a delayed killer for them...not that swapping them out is a deal breaker (unless you built like I did on one mod...fire tact went bad, it was so integrated into the build I destroyed the mod trying to fix it)

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[super_X_drifter]

Turbo, that took ballz of steel bro. Looks like you may have invented an alternative way to boil water.

Great job on the vid and sealing the woodvil so well.

 

[Hiwatt Bob]

very cool--love the dna woodvils!!

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Wow, just crazy.

 

[turbocad6]

yeah man I went with the liquid electrical tape for the main chip body and epoxy on the switches and a clear acrylic coating for the display. as far as the tact switches, I find that they are fairly resilient to water damage but yeah they're not going to last forever submerging them all the time, on my metal grand I used a tact switch for the fire button and that's in the head right next to the atty, can't tell you how many times I've gotten juice all over it and even flushed it with water in the sink many times when it would get really gunked up with juice and start to get sticky when pressing it, it's still going fine but I do know there not really waterproof so for this test I just dabbed a little vaseline around the switches to keep water out. I did do this in a way that I can replace the tact switches alone so I'm not so concerned with the switches and I really don't intend on submerging this thing on a regular basis either so the switches should last a few years at least.

I've seen plenty of chips go bad and just about every one that I have seen go bad are from one thing and one thing only, juice damage... if the chip is kept nice and dry it should last years and years. it doesn't take a lot of juice to do damage too, even trace amounts can kill a chip, juice can even wick to the chip from the wires and it's extremely difficult to keep a chip in a bf dry at all times. this one now won't be damaged by juice so it should last a really long time, I expect years but if I ever need to swap out the chip I can do that too without ruining the mod so I think I'm good here

the mosfet on the dna doesn't really get hot, nothing on the board really gets hot and I have had no problems. I even torture tested this by repeatedly firing at 30 watts with a fresh battery, over and over until I killed the battery and I had to keep dunking the atty so I don't start to melt the insulator and it passed with flying colors, no hint of heat buildup at all. I didn't video that because it would have really been a long boring video there but I torture tested it at way more repeated loads than you could ever chain vape at max watts and no problems at all

 

[Gigdujour]

That's amazing! Awesome job sir


Master of Bassets...and not much else.

 

[want to quit]

Can't believe you did that. No fear on the first test you would fail? Quite the large set of balls buddy. I would trade you one of mine the the dna woody lol

I waterproofed my woodvil and decided to test it out tonight I love the electronics but hate how susceptible they are to juice damage, not going to be a problem any more I think

 

[Kentastic]

that was terrifying, tcad...

Ditto!!........

 

[want to quit]

So here is a question, could one actually convert every RDA to a BF one or does it depend on the rda? Would love my atomic to be BF as I like using it but only use my reo lol.

 

[Kentastic]

After that display I've got a rather mundane question.... How did you remove enough of the brass 510 catch cup to be able to fit a Cyclone AFC cap onto it? Did you have to remove the whole 510 assembly? I'd love a LP woodvil, but while I'm ok at tinkering and small modifications, my soldering skills are about equal to using superglue. (The superglue would probably hold better)

 

[Kentastic]

So here is a question, could one actually convert every RDA to a BF one or does it depend on the rda? Would love my atomic to be BF as I like using it but only use my reo lol.

Depends upon the RDA want to quit. Some are easy and some are near on impossible. You need to make a hole that goes from the bottom of the 510 connection up to the deck of the RDA. RDA's with a center post that can be pressed out, then either drilled up inside the post, then drilled into the side of the post once it's above the deck. Or you can take a dremel and carve a channel all the way up and down the side of the post. Going from the bottom to up high enough that it would clear the deck when the post is pressed back in. Thus creating a "hole" down the side of the center post.

RDAs that have center posts that do not come out easily or have dual holes like the Helios RDA would be very difficult to convert from sealed to bottom feeder RDA.

 

[pesky_human]

That looks incredible! Nice job.

Since you stripped off the gloss, you might consider some of this stuff call Renaissance Wax (we call it ren wax). It is the absolute bomb and will give you a nice protective coating that will serve you well. It's used in museums as a wood protective, and I came across it when I was working with a knife maker who used it on super-high-end custom knives. A tin of it will probably last a lifetime as you don't need that much.

 

[want to quit]

Thank you. All rda's should be BF lol.

Depends upon the RDA want to quit. Some are easy and some are near on impossible. You need to make a hole that goes from the bottom of the 510 connection up to the deck of the RDA. RDA's with a center post that can be pressed out, then either drilled up inside the post, then drilled into the side of the post once it's above the deck. Or you can take a dremel and carve a channel all the way up and down the side of the post. Going from the bottom to up high enough that it would clear the deck when the post is pressed back in. Thus creating a "hole" down the side of the center post.

RDAs that have center posts that do not come out easily or have dual holes like the Helios RDA would be very difficult to convert from sealed to bottom feeder RDA.

 

[turbocad6]

think you're talking about Renaissance wax? funny coincidence, I bought a trans am from the guy who invented that wax years ago, never thought to use it on a mod, now to see if I can find the jar of that stuff he gave me back then

 

[pesky_human]

think you're talking about Renaissance wax? funny coincidence, I bought a trans am from the guy who invented that wax years ago, never thought to use it on a mod, now to see if I can find the jar of that stuff he gave me back then

That's the stuff. Wow! Shake the guy's hand for me if you ever see him again. That stuff is the sh**! It's a great preservative.

 

[Ian444]

After that display I've got a rather mundane question.... How did you remove enough of the brass 510 catch cup to be able to fit a Cyclone AFC cap onto it? Did you have to remove the whole 510 assembly? I'd love a LP woodvil, but while I'm ok at tinkering and small modifications, my soldering skills are about equal to using superglue. (The superglue would probably hold better)

Ken, I don't have a Cyclone AFC fitted in those pics but it would fit. A few people do their own LP conversions on the metal Reos, and its no different with the Woodvils, except the cup is thin and made of brass. I did "almost" LP conversions on my 18490's, I say almost because I would need to take off just another hair of material to make them LP, another 0.020" or so, here's a pic.



To modify those 18490's I borrowed a hand held belt sander/linisher from the sheet metal guys at work, its a miniature belt sander with a 10mm wide belt powered by shop air. Then finished it with a fine file, and 400 wet and dry sandpaper to smooth and radius the edges. You can leave the whole brass 510 connector in place to do that. If you had a little time and few tools, a junior hacksaw could remove most of the cup and then finish off with a file, or even just use a small grinder, but try to keep the mechanical stresses on the brass 510 connector to a minimum, you want to try to avoid heavy stress or heavy vibration.

On the Oak Woodvil, I removed the brass 510 connector and put it in a lathe, its a more time-consuming job.

 

[canoeist]

I used an orbital sander to lower the height of a catch cup on an older woodvil so an rm2 would fit. Turned the sander upside down & sanded the cup down to same height as the new ones. Only took a few minutes to do it. Polished the edges with some very fine sandpaper.

 

[Kentastic]

Thanks Ian444 & canoeist. I may give it a try. Like I mentioned I have a cyclone AFC cap that I would like to use on my 490 woodvil, but the more I look at it, the more I don't think it would work. Even sanding down the brass cup even with the 510 connector would still leave a 1/4 inch sticking up. When the AFC top cap is seated all the way down on the cyclone it still would hover over the top of the wood that 1/4 inch. It would work, but would probably look a little weird. I may do it anyway just to get the catch cup lower on the deck for atheistic purposes. Even if the cyclone AFC won't work it would be nice to have the RM2 sit a little lower.

 

[turbocad6]

just got this woodvil today, next up for some surgery... this one really needs an overhaul, gotta rescue this thing and bring her back to some kind of semblance of her former woodvil glory


already tore it down, can't wait to give it a cleaning and strip the whole surface

 

[Treebeard]

just got this woodvil today, next up for some surgery... this one really needs an overhaul, gotta rescue this thing and bring her back to some kind of semblance of her former woodvil glory


already tore it down, can't wait to give it a cleaning and strip the whole surface

turbo, you never cease to capture my attention.