xtar 2100mAh 30A wrapper removal

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SpanishSunday

Full Member
Jan 9, 2015
54
59
Spain
I got it. So for variable wattage, when the battery's voltage drops, it has to output more amps to keep up with the wattage required.

So, I have one more question ( sorry for being such a pain in the ..., :) ). What's the formula for the voltage drop vs amp draw increase in a series box, especially for a vw box.

Also, I guess it's the same for vv box too. To keep it consistent in the desired voltage, it will draw more n more amps as well. So what's the formula?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

The formula that rules the input and the output of all power converters (and the DC/DC converters in a VV or in a VW box are power converters), in the ideal case (100% efficiency), is that Pinput = Poutput. So all the power that comes out of the battery (input of the converter) goes out to the atomizer (ouput of the converter), or Vbatt * Ibatt = Vatty * Iatty

If one sets the Watts in a VW mod, and Vbatt goes down as it discharges, the converter will draw more current, increasing Ibatt, to give the required Watts at the atty, as you wrote above.

If one sets the Volts in a VV mod, the converter will adapt its inner workings to keep Vatty at its setpoint.
 

tFOrRESTee

Senior Member
Nov 3, 2014
263
183
USA
The formula that rules the input and the output of all power converters (and the DC/DC converters in a VV or in a VW box are power converters), in the ideal case (100% efficiency), is that Pinput = Poutput. So all the power that comes out of the battery (input of the converter) goes out to the atomizer (ouput of the converter), or Vbatt * Ibatt = Vatty * Iatty

If one sets the Watts in a VW mod, and Vbatt goes down as it discharges, the converter will draw more current, increasing Ibatt, to give the required Watts at the atty, as you wrote above.

If one sets the Volts in a VV mod, the converter will adapt its inner workings to keep Vatty at its setpoint.

Ding ding ding, I would double like this post. :) It's just simple as that, lol. Thanks!
 

Mikenekro

Full Member
Dec 19, 2014
25
32
Kenosha, WI, USA
Update:
Received a new Xtar to test on in case the one I unwrapped was bad.
I should have the results of the Xtar by this Thursday. When they're done I'll edit the main post and put them there.
I'm testing them on a mech mod and regulated mod to get a more real world type results. There will be a graph of the voltage results for every 30 seconds (done in 5 second intervals) for positive on/positive off with mech/regulated. Might shorten the time between volt measurements to 5 seconds if the graphs don't turn out as accurate. I'll be using the same battery for more accurate results.

It won't be perfect as I'm doing it with mods but I think it will show a more accurate representation of how it will perform in the real world.

I'll have all of the details up when they are done.
 

Mikenekro

Full Member
Dec 19, 2014
25
32
Kenosha, WI, USA
Sorry if the graph is hard to see. Turned out smaller then expected and tried to size it up but didn't work. You can save it and zoom in or zoom in when you have it open if you can't read it.

I completed the graph from the Mech Mod tests. This was done on the same mod with the same coils. I don't have fancy battery testing equipment so I used a stopwatch on my phone to time it as close as I could, a multimeter to measure the volts and waited before measuring volts for the battery sag to catch up which took forever. Battery sag was about the same before and after taking the positive cap off. It was around 0.02V in the high volts range and during the 3.4 and below volts it got around 0.3V sag.

Mech Mod at 0.27 Ohms:
I fired the mod for 5 seconds then stopped for 5 seconds until I reached a total of 30 seconds firing the mod, which was 60 seconds total with the rest periods, then I would measure the battery volts after waiting for battery sag to catch up which took around 5-10 mins in the beginning and waited around 1 hour for the last measurement.


Positive off:
By the graph you can see they are pretty similar but with the positive cap off it lasted an extra 30 seconds, which could be an extra 5-6 hits, before the Voltage got too close to the 2.8V I was trying to stop at.
Ending Volts were 2.95V and took 11 Minutes to reach this.

Positive on:
At the beginning there is more of a noticeable drop off with the positive on but in the middle it seems to catch up a bit and then drop back off first towards the end.
Ending Volts were 2.96V and took 10:30 Minutes to reach this.

graph3.jpg

Mech Mod Conclusion:
In the end there wasn't too much of a difference for the Mech Mod between the 2 but you can get a little bit more power and time from the battery if you take the positive cap off. Not much more but there is some. This could also just be a fluke and I am going to try testing this a few more times with other Xtar Batteries. Maybe an average between 4-5 different batteries will give us a better conclusion.

If you like the way the Xtar batteries look and you want to take the positive cap off you can try what I did. I got black re-wrap and saved the sticker from the original wrapping. Now it looks almost exactly the same except for the positive.

I still have the Regulated Mod test results coming up soon. I have the results for the Positive On with the Regulated but will be testing the Positive Off with the Regulated tomorrow after it recharges and rests.

The first battery I had ended up being bad and this one turned out good.
 

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