Your vivi nova experience

[Escapereality]

After ordering 2 vivi novas and trying everything I've read here on the forums aside from completely rebuilding the coil I've been unable to find any success. I've had some good capes here and there but for the most part its been terrible for me.

Why does everyone's experience differ so much? Some people swear by these things. I'm not sure what to think.

I boiled the heads, cleaned them, trimmed the silicon cap, tipped my PV for days. All of this with zero success in being able to find a decent vape out of these things.

Also it's worth noting I got my vivi novas from reliable vendors and I am positive they are both the 2.5 version.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[j4mmin42]

I have no idea why some people are able to have so much luck with them, especially right out of the box. I've tried just about everything, and I'm convinced that they are simply flawed in too many ways to work reliably for many people. My biggest issue is that they don't wick well with the stock wicks, and the atty wire is all R wire, which makes the legs of the coil heat up and melt/ burn the rubber gasket inside the center post. Every single one of the heads I've tried has a burnt taste to it. Trust me, I've wasted alot of my time and juice on mine and I feel your pain.

I'm going to try rebuilding one when i get my supplies in- but these things should have worked correctly out of the box...

 

[donnah]

I've had quite a bit of success... both with rebuilding the heads and out of the box. I had to get used to lower voltage and not hearing the snap, crackle and pop I get with boges...it's more of a hiss. I've been rewicking using cotton and I've found that they will burn a lot easier than silica. I do get shorts from time to time with my rebuilt heads but it's getting less often as I get better at coiling my coil and placing it in the head. I'm using this only on my provari and if I get a short, the provari just won't fire and I take it apart and rebuild it.

I too have wondered about the "hot legs" issue but lots of people are successfully rebuilding these using all resistance wire. I have thought about trying to build a coil using resistance and then using non resistance wire for the legs (like the oddy and penelope) and I've not read about anyone doing this and the benefits of it. I assume it can be done (I guess). Carto tanks are certainly easier and I'd keep using them if it weren't for the filler taste I'm now more sensitive to.

My only advice would be to lower the voltage, at least until the wick is well soaked and "broke in" (whatever that means) If you hear the snap, crackle and pop then the voltage is probably too high and your wick is burnt. These are like the boges in that once the wick is burnt, it's over.

 

[18SixFifty]

My was great right out of the box. But I did fill it and let it sit for an hour and drip on drop on the coil.

 

[LucentShadow]

I have the original version, with around 9 original heads and a few newer heads that came with the CC Stardust style and Mini Nova style that I got later. These things are my go-to setup. After getting these, I know I'll probably never use the dozens of various other cartos that I have...

I only tried two heads in their stock configuration. One was fine, but the other had the burnt rubber problem. Where these things really shine is when properly rebuilt, with a good wick.

My best results are from using around 8 strands of Aunt Lydia's #10 bamboo crochet thread (natural color) that I got at Micheal's for the wick, and a 2-2.2 ohm 34 gauge nichrome 80 coil with legs doubled-back and twisted to reduce the heat at the grommet. I make the wick short, so that it just touches the sides of the tank, which means I have to consciously wet it occasionally, but it performs quite well. I also trim about .5mm on the silicone cap.

At this point, I'm fairly sure I will have found something I like better than these within a few months, but I think I'll be using these sometimes even after that.

 

[Escapereality]

Thanks Lucent for the Wick recommendation. I am really wanting these to work because I am really touchy about my cartos. They have to be pretty moist on top and that usually has me sucking on a tank to get liquid to pull through....which isn't pleasant.


With my last order I purchased some silica wick and kanthal wire to rebuild, but I may also try the wicks you recommended since they're readily available. Are there any chemicals or anything to worry about in the thread you mentioned?

 

[LucentShadow]

Thanks Lucent for the Wick recommendation. I am really wanting these to work because I am really touchy about my cartos. They have to be pretty moist on top and that usually has me sucking on a tank to get liquid to pull through....which isn't pleasant.


With my last order I purchased some silica wick and kanthal wire to rebuild, but I may also try the wicks you recommended since they're readily available. Are there any chemicals or anything to worry about in the thread you mentioned?

There is some speculation involved with using any of the wicks that we use. The bamboo thread is basically rayon that is sourced from bamboo, and it's creation does involve quite a few chemicals, though bamboo does not require insecticides during it's life. I have not detected any obvious chemicals while doing a burn test of the material, or while using it as a wick, for what it's worth.

While I have not done so with this particular product, many boil their cotton or bamboo wicking material 2-3 times to satisfy themselves that chemicals will largely be removed. They both introduce some of their particular taste (bamboo tastes woody) into the vapor, but that does fade. I find that the bamboo thread wicks very well, and is easy to get repeatable results. You just can't dry burn it.

There is more info in this runaway thread:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...erials-safe-vs-dangerous-319.html#post7251491

 

[MISTer E]

There is some speculation involved with using any of the wicks that we use.

I use 100% natural (according to the label lol) hemp twine for non mesh wicks. I do boil it & usually unbraid it first.

On my novas, I carefully removed the silica & inserted hemp wick on the stock coils from the get go. The taste of the rubber grommet burning on the stock heads almost made me give up. I then learned to drill the "positive pin" air restriction issue away & "twisted the legs" to remove "tiretracks across my lungs". This taming let me enjoy a bit more of the ViVi Nova's potential. A big Thank U to all whom have shared ViVi tips & tricks, so that others [such as me] can learn.

 

[Escapereality]

I use 100% natural (according to the label lol) hemp twine for non mesh wicks. I do boil it & usually unbraid it first.

On my novas, I carefully removed the silica & inserted hemp wick on the stock coils from the get go. The taste of the rubber grommet burning on the stock heads almost made me give up. I then learned to drill the "positive pin" air restriction issue away & "twisted the legs" to remove "tiretracks across my lungs". This taming let me enjoy a bit more of the ViVi Nova's potential. A big Thank U to all whom have shared ViVi tips & tricks, so that others [such as me] can learn.

I'm aware of resistance wire and the rubber grommet...but what do you mean here:
I then learned to drill the "positive pin" air restriction issue away & "twisted the legs" to remove "tiretracks across my lungs".

 

[GiMp LEg DoNKey]

I use 100% cotton yarn and 32g kanthal and have had great success. It does take cotton a couple hours to break in but after that it's great. FWIW I don't boil my cotton as I am just lazy...lol...but I don't get any funky tastes. I did try to double up my legs when building a new coil but could never get that to work so I just stayed with the single legs and haven't melted the o ring yet.


Sent from Mars using Tapatalk damn it!

 

[Black Strat]

I have used the Vivi Nova and the Mini Vivi Nova right out of the box with no issues. I have had a great experience thus far, with several refills of a mid-viscosity 50/50 mix and a very viscous BWB Malty Toffee (30/70).

I wonder if the more viscous juices perform better due to better wick adhesion.

 

[LucentShadow]

I'm aware of resistance wire and the rubber grommet...but what do you mean here:
I then learned to drill the "positive pin" air restriction issue away & "twisted the legs" to remove "tiretracks across my lungs".

Sounds like drilling out the airflow hole through the center pin of the connector, though I've no idea how much.

There's a couple of pics in the Vivi Nova Rebuild Thread that show some doubled-back-and-twisted legs in order to prevent burning the grommet. The legs end up being half the resistance of the wire that way, so they don't heat up as much.

 

[MISTer E]

Escapereality

I'm aware of resistance wire and the rubber grommet...but what do you mean here:
I then learned to drill the "positive pin" air restriction issue away

LucentShadow

Sounds like drilling out the airflow hole through the center pin of the connector, though I've no idea how much.

I used the largest size bit I had that would fit in the slotted side & went a little off center on that one . Airflow was way too restricted for me, since I use thick absorbent hemp wicks that block air flow more than stock.

 

[Escapereality]

So I gave the Vivi Nova another shot and ordered replacement heads from gotvapes (the vendor in purchased my novas from). I just decided to try one out after getting 3 bad boges in a row.

This one is vaping pretty good. I put a different juice in this one because I didn't want to waste my all day vape if it didn't work out.

The juice I'm vaping now is a bit thinner and also has a bit of menthol in it. I'm going to vape on this for an hour or two and if keeps going well ill try it with some malty toffee which is a bit thicker.

Strange how all 6 heads from the 2 kits I ordered all tasted like crap, and the first replacement head I tried seems to be working 1000x better.

 

[TBinAZ]

Just a reminder for all 'rebuildable' atty/clearo coil/wick types of devices and tanks, and yes, I learned the hard way, always drip a drip of liquid on the coil before firing it up, and start at the lowest voltage/wattage you can and work your way up to taste. Too many people with VVs start high, burn the crap out of head, and then go lower. Well, too late then, damage done.

 

[Escapereality]

Another update:

The first vivi nova with the replacement head I filled has been performing great. I decided to fill another one with one of my thicker liquids. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and gave a puff....and it's pretty good. I can tell it needs a little breaking in but no terrible burnt or rubber taste.

I did the exact same thing with the replacement heads as I did with the original heads that came with the device. I really don't understand why there is such a difference in performance.

 

[KevNewEngland]

Just a reminder for all 'rebuildable' atty/clearo coil/wick types of devices and tanks, and yes, I learned the hard way, always drip a drip of liquid on the coil before firing it up, and start at the lowest voltage/wattage you can and work your way up to taste. Too many people with VVs start high, burn the crap out of head, and then go lower. Well, too late then, damage done.

I was unaware of this. Luckily, I just started rewicking/coiling, so I'm glad I read this. Sounds like great advice. Thanks!

 

[Rickajho]

I have used the Vivi Nova and the Mini Vivi Nova right out of the box with no issues. I have had a great experience thus far, with several refills of a mid-viscosity 50/50 mix and a very viscous BWB Malty Toffee (30/70).

I wonder if the more viscous juices perform better due to better wick adhesion.

As a 100 VG user I would have to give that one a "no". The stock head just doesn't seem to be able to wick fast enough and the problem only gets worse with thick liquids. I kept dropping the voltage and dropping the voltage to try and compensate but for me it came down to: coil heats too fast, wick sucks up too slow. I got five days of sorta underwhelming vaping followed by two days of harsher and harsher hits and discoloring liquid before I quit each head. No amount of tipping helped once the wick started getting gunked up. I'll revisit them - some day - and rebuild the heads when I don't have a pile of other projects. But I don't see much joy here with thick VG liquids and the stock heads.

 

[MISTer E]

Strange how all 6 heads from the 2 kits I ordered all tasted like crap, and the first replacement head I tried seems to be working 1000x better.

I can not answer your question, but I do question the wire in the original heads(@ least the ones I got).
WARNING: do not inhale the first few hits.

The image above of a never installed stock ViVi coil/wick, does not do justice to the 80% gold hued mystery substance that coats the wire, of which MISTer E has deduced is not favorable to ones health. (As I drearily imagine it anyways, it actually might make you grow bigger & stuff)

No amount of boiling IMO, would remove what I can see much better with my naked eye & a hand held magnifier. If they were soldered legs, I would say its flux. For now I say "What the flux"

 

[Samyaza]

As a 100 VG user I would have to give that one a "no". The stock head just doesn't seem to be able to wick fast enough and the problem only gets worse with thick liquids.

I vape 100% VG using a vivi and stock wick with no problems. I have the short wick and have been using the same 2.8ohm head that I bought it with for about 3 weeks straight now.

The 3 things that made it work for me were:

1) Lower voltage. I use the 2.8ohm head at 4.4v (I'd use a 3ohm Boge at 5.1v).

2) Refill when it gets to about half full

3) Rinse and dry burn, rinse and dry burn every 2 days. It takes about 5min to do and it really has kept me going well.

At first I thought that the Vivi was a bust, but really lowering the voltage did the trick wonderfully.