ZMax V2 in a Box Mod
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thanks breaktru !
that helped a lot....ordered 3 ...also got a lot of other good info there.
I will make a carbon fiber box for it ...nice to hear from you agn.
rolf
that helped a lot....ordered 3 ...also got a lot of other good info there.
I will make a carbon fiber box for it ...nice to hear from you agn.
rolf
If you need something smaller (micro usb) the dna charger is an option. Costs a good bit more though.
jes you said it...the price is right ..4.99 including shipping ! and that's for 3 of them
laying out the case with cardboard pieces looks like all will fit in nice.
laying out the case with cardboard pieces looks like all will fit in nice.
nice size comparison !
one qwestion ...well two...after charging is there any current drain on the battery ? ( cable unplugged )
or do you recommend a switch ?
the atty ...is that modded ? I have two of those and don't like them ...should be easy modd to genesis !
one qwestion ...well two...after charging is there any current drain on the battery ? ( cable unplugged )
or do you recommend a switch ?
the atty ...is that modded ? I have two of those and don't like them ...should be easy modd to genesis !
There is a slight drain but haven't measured it.
On/Off switch: Removing battery power will reset the display settings to default (3.0v) if it was set to show Voltage or Resistance.
Remembers the display setting if display was set to Wattage or Stealth.
The RBA was modded to a Genesis type and performs excellent.
Do you guys think a 15270 battery could power a zmax board effectively? If you guys think so imma make my zmax a very stealthy altoids smalls mod. If not will probably go slightly bigger with an altoids gum and a bigger batt
hi breaktrue
laying out the pieces and making a form for the carbon fiber box. using a 18650 imr.
it is as small as I can get it. so ....not planning to put a switch on the output of the charger...hardwire that in .I will see if the battery will discharge and how fast. planning to leave the battery in the mod and maybe have to charge it more often .
just thinking out loud...will a diode help ?
on the rba ...I gues I have to go to the drillpress . looks nice. rolf
laying out the pieces and making a form for the carbon fiber box. using a 18650 imr.
it is as small as I can get it. so ....not planning to put a switch on the output of the charger...hardwire that in .I will see if the battery will discharge and how fast. planning to leave the battery in the mod and maybe have to charge it more often .
just thinking out loud...will a diode help ?
on the rba ...I gues I have to go to the drillpress . looks nice. rolf
A diode for ?
The only additional things I added besides the usb charger is two parrelled PTC fuses
hi breaktrue
what I mean is a diode to block any battery discharge through the charger board after unplugging usb power.
the fuses you are using....if you tell me they are important then I will try to find some ....and find a spot for them
did you put them in the out put of the charger ?one in each +and - ?? or at the input ? not sure what they protect ...rolf
what I mean is a diode to block any battery discharge through the charger board after unplugging usb power.
the fuses you are using....if you tell me they are important then I will try to find some ....and find a spot for them
did you put them in the out put of the charger ?one in each +and - ?? or at the input ? not sure what they protect ...rolf
The controller is the culprit for the drain (if any) the diode for the charger would not help.
The PTC's would go in series w/ the battery positive to the controller positive, or.... the battery negative to the controller negative.
The charger should go after the fuse, not the battery side.
The PTC's would go in series w/ the battery positive to the controller positive, or.... the battery negative to the controller negative.
The charger should go after the fuse, not the battery side.
The recommended battery for the ZMax is an AW IMR1860, high drain (Max. continuous discharge rate : 10A)
I use a Li-Po which is rated at 20A
Not sure about your 15270. I've seen them in 3.0v, 3.6v and 3.7v. Don't have the discharge rate for them. Sorry. Maybe someone can shed some light on them.
thanks the comeback !
it looks like you are saying one fuse in either pos or neg would do it and ok where to place it .
working on my mod and did not have time to research where to find them and amp ratings available.
I did something semi stupid ...I took the pos pin out of the 510 and thought it was a good idea before soldering the outer part to a circuit board and not to overheat the insulator !! it is silicone and could stand a lot of heat ....never again ...cant get it back in!!!!!
maybe have to use epoxy and wrap some fiberglas around pos pin and set it in before curing , are we having fun jet ? rolf
it looks like you are saying one fuse in either pos or neg would do it and ok where to place it .
working on my mod and did not have time to research where to find them and amp ratings available.
I did something semi stupid ...I took the pos pin out of the 510 and thought it was a good idea before soldering the outer part to a circuit board and not to overheat the insulator !! it is silicone and could stand a lot of heat ....never again ...cant get it back in!!!!!
maybe have to use epoxy and wrap some fiberglas around pos pin and set it in before curing , are we having fun jet ? rolf
Instead of one fuse, parallel two so that the PTC fuse resistance is half the value. See: PTC Fuses
Before removing the 510 insulator, lubricate it so not to rip it. Use a drop of VG or spit. Also lube when putting it back. Place the insulator over the hole through the top of the 510 and use the base end of a drill bit that is wider than the insulator and press into place. Then feed your wire thru the insulator w/ the pin attached. Also lube the pin so not to tear the insulator. Works every time, easily.
hi breaktru!thanks for all that info. so what I did is what I did to my did ..funny...was not making a solid contact so I tntand put a drop of epoxy and wrapped sewing thread around it to build it up ...lubed the inside and shoved it in to the right dept and let it cure...
worked out great.thats what I ended up doing on this ...in the pix the lower rail is for the atty connecter . the 510 end looks red because I used red thread w epoxy...I wanted the switch on top ..more ergonomic for my thumb.
back to the ptc thanks for the info ..well im pushing 80 and wondering why I am thinking so slow ...it looks you used two in parallel to lower the voltage drop across . what does it do to the amp rating ?double it ? ..if are a matched pair .
so many parameters...which one did you use ?
tnx rolf
Here's a PTC with low resistance. You can use one being it's low. RUEF300
The answer to your question is yes, double the amp rating, half the resistance with two of the same PTC's in parallel.
The answer to your question is yes, double the amp rating, half the resistance with two of the same PTC's in parallel.
hi breaktrue!
I think that I can fit that thing under or over the charger board if it is not thicker than about 5 mm or so.
I am stopped for now ..waiting for the charger boards to come in . and will order the ptc fuses to .
on my layout it would be easier to leave all the pos conections as they are wired now and interrupt the negative from the battery with the fuse. unles I am missing something...all should be protected ..current must flow in both pos and neg
have funn ....rolf
I think that I can fit that thing under or over the charger board if it is not thicker than about 5 mm or so.
I am stopped for now ..waiting for the charger boards to come in . and will order the ptc fuses to .
on my layout it would be easier to leave all the pos conections as they are wired now and interrupt the negative from the battery with the fuse. unles I am missing something...all should be protected ..current must flow in both pos and neg
have funn ....rolf
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