Do body material affect voltage drop?

[unloaded]

I agree with AP, the surface area is large enough that it shouldn't matter. However where dissimilar metals come in contact they are more prone to oxidation. Be sure to use an inhibitor on the threads where brass topcap and SS body meet. I've been using DeoxIT Gold and having good results with it.

 

[AttyPops]

Look, it's not metal conductivity alone that you'd need to be worried about, it's surface area*, and there's plenty. Focus on the contacts and connections between things.

You shouldn't need so many amps that you're worried about body material unless you're messing with SLR. Then, you need:
1) reviews of devices - because there's lots of variables like button type, vents, contacts, contact materials and/or plating
2) A multi-meter to check things
3) Additional catastrophic insurance policy

And if the mech-mod doesn't work or works poorly when you press the button....don't keep pressing it. Find the problem using the meter so you don't heat the battery.

Good point about materials and contact cleaner unloaded.

* surface area is why stranded wire conducts better than solid wire. There's more surface area. Thus, the electricity travels on the OUTSIDE surface of a wire. lol. However, there's plenty of surface area on a mech mod for ground. We're not talking about 5 or 10 hair-sized wires. We're talking about having a whole mod enclosure to conduct/be ground state. Plenty of surface area.

 

[minimalsaint]

I found this interesting... Much more to VD than just the mod itself

Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware

 

[jasl90]

* surface area is why stranded wire conducts better than solid wire. There's more surface area. Thus, the electricity travels on the OUTSIDE surface of a wire. lol. However, there's plenty of surface area on a mech mod for ground. We're not talking about 5 or 10 hair-sized wires. We're talking about having a whole mod enclosure to conduct/be ground state. Plenty of surface area.

This only applies to AC and high frequency DC signals. A mech mod uses uses an unpulsed DC signal so there is no "skin effect". The current flows equally throughout the conductor.

 

[Heavyrocker]

So i'm gonna upgrade my mech mod. And the mod i'm looking into have 2 version. 1 is full brass and another is full ss.

Both have the same connectors made using brass +ve, -ve and brass firing button but different body. 1 is brass body and another is stainless steel body.

Problem for me is, should i get the full brass or the SS version? I prefer the ss body but will ss body cause an increase in voltage drop compared to the brass version? As we know brass have better conductivity than stainless steel. but what i'm concerned is the material of the body does it play a big part in determining the voltage drop of the device? Of course we're talking about dv under load.

Here's the photo.

OFF TOPIC:but how do you post your pics so big,when i post they are smaller.

 

[Jimi D.]

I shot these pics while standing in a bucket of water J/K http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ow-get-better-continuity-your-mechanical.html

 

[Heavyrocker]

How bout that plastic made out there,the Lava Tube L-rider,it seems too work just the same as a metal mod.

 

[AttyPops]

This only applies to AC and high frequency DC signals. A mech mod uses uses an unpulsed DC signal so there is no "skin effect". The current flows equally throughout the conductor.

I stand corrected. My bad.

Even so, cross section is even MORE area. So, OP, it's still OK.

 

[AttyPops]

How bout that plastic made out there,the Lava Tube L-rider,it seems too work just the same as a metal mod.

View attachment 230465

1) That's not an all-mech mod
2) Even if a mech mod is plastic for some reason, it would have to have a conductor inside...so it would depend on how they designed that part of it.
3) The LT's and any non-mech e-cig has a conductor "band" or wire or tube somehow. So do plastic flashlights, etc.

 

[jasl90]

1) That's not an all-mech mod
2) Even if a mech mod is plastic for some reason, it would have to have a conductor inside...so it would depend on how they designed that part of it.
3) The LT's and any non-mech e-cig has a conductor "band" or wire or tube somehow. So do plastic flashlights, etc.

Yup... That was my very first VV mod...
The tube body is attached to the PCB's ground. the 510 is attached to the pcb outputs with two wires. One soldered to the threaded connector piece (neg) and another soldered to the center pin (pos).

 

[jasl90]

I stand corrected. My bad.

Even so, cross section is even MORE area. So, OP, it's still OK.

No worries... Your answers are usually dead on the money, including the ones in this thread. The only reason I commented was because you made me 2nd guess myself and I had to do a quick search to verify.

Hope I didn't offend. Was not my intention.

 

[AttyPops]

You didn't offend. lol.

I am a bit surprised you didn't bring up the heat-in-a-conductor issue though. And how conductivity changes with heat. And conducting electricity generates heat....... (just pulling your chain)

I was just wrong I guess. Happens.

 

[jasl90]

You didn't offend. lol.

I am a bit surprised you didn't bring up the heat-in-a-conductor issue though. And how conductivity changes with heat. And conducting electricity generates heat....... (just pulling your chain)

I was just wrong I guess. Happens.

Lol... You give me too much credit. My guess is that if your PV is getting hot enough to change its conductivity, you need to put it down and move away...

 

[MattyB1503]

I shot these pics while standing in a bucket of water J/K http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ow-get-better-continuity-your-mechanical.html

Mean while the debate rages on when the OP was answered in post #1...

Man, that's fricken genius Jimi. I used the same pen to fix a hot spring problem way back when I had a working VAMO; then just forgot about it. Awesome, def gonna try it out on my battery contacts.

 

[AttyPops]

The OP has been answered 5 times by 5 people....so no debate.

The other thing to discuss is on-going maintenance. Your sanding of the contacts removed a layer of oxides. Same with using the pen...the new surface isn't oxidized and the underside bonded chemically.

So the other thing to point out is that oxides build up over time naturally and they reduce conductivity. Cleaning the contacts/sanding them or coating them with a pen helps increase conductivity. But I'll be curious to see if it doesn't build back up over time even on the sanded contacts without further sanding.

That's why gold is use to plate/tin the contacts on pcb's and such. It doesn't tarnish easily.

IDK if I was using a mech...if I'd sand the contacts, or just clean them...assuming they were already silver or gold (maybe brass too).

The oxidation layer can be an atom thick...and invisible.

Do you gently sand the battery contacts too?

 

[MattyB1503]

The OP has been answered 5 times by 5 people....so no debate.

The other thing to discuss is on-going maintenance. Your sanding of the contacts removed a layer of oxides. Same with using the pen...the new surface isn't oxidized and the underside bonded chemically.

So the other thing to point out is that oxides build up over time naturally and they reduce conductivity. Cleaning the contacts/sanding them or coating them with a pen helps increase conductivity. But I'll be curious to see if it doesn't build back up over time even on the sanded contacts without further sanding.

That's why gold is use to plate/tin the contacts on pcb's and such. It doesn't tarnish easily.

IDK if I was using a mech...if I'd sand the contacts, or just clean them...assuming they were already silver or gold (maybe brass too).

The oxidation layer can be an atom thick...and invisible.

Do you gently sand the battery contacts too?

No, the first time I have even considered improving conductivity of my battery contacts was after seeing Jimi's post.

Couple mods w/ Rhodium, Silver on the Poldiac, couple w/ Brass contacts. Pro-Grade for brass, soft cloth for precious metals, Noalox'ed threads, ect. ect. I take care of my mods I don't think sanding contacts on a mod would be anything I would want to do unless it's MIC (made in China).

But I think what I was really impressed with was the fact that I had never considered my battery contacts... Just kinda figured it was what it was.

Yeah the pen does contain polymers.. But I wish I could find mine, dying to try it.

Anything that will push more V'z to my Coils'z is

 

[newconvert]

The tube is just a container for the switch and battery, and should have no effect on conductivity. As long as they both have the brass springs and switch, get the one that looks better to your eyes

especially in the mech modz, the body is part of the negative connection, although the contact points are the main connection the body is in the circuit of the mod, so it will have an effect on resistance.

 

[AttyPops]

especially in the mech modz, the body is part of the negative connection, although the contact points are the main connection the body is in the circuit of the mod, so it will have an effect on resistance.

The point of all the other posts is....no not really. lol. Not one material type more than any other. (for the OP's purposes).

Look. The cross sectional area of the metal mod's body is sufficient to conduct plenty of current regardless of differing types of metal (within reason).

Although you can probably find minute differences or weird materials, it's mostly valid to say "focus in the contacts and threads, not the type of metal for the tube".