Ego batt safe to use after repair?

[nc527]

I bout a set of 2 ego ce4 1100mah ecigs a couple weeks ago. Yesterday I bought a t2 tank and vaped with it till bedtime. Then I charged it overnight. Then today, I took 3-4 hits before it stopped working. At first I thought the center pin just needed to be pulled up, but that didn't fix the prob either. So then figured I had nothing to lose, I pulled the whole center pin, and noticed the yellow wire goin to the pin had broken off. I was able to pull enough wire to work with, so I re soldered the yellow wire to the pin, put it back together, and am now vaping away as I type this.

My question is tho, should I keep using the repaired battery(is it safe to use?) or should I seek a replacement from the vendor I purchased it from? While I'm pretty certain my solder is better then the factory's, I sure don't want it to blow up in my face.

Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on the subject, and I would have posted this in the appropriate forum, but as a new member I didn't have access to post a new thread in the tech. Section.


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[Pinggolfer]

I would say you fixed the problem, but to be on the safe side buying another ego battery won't break the payroll. I sure would not leave it on the charger without being nearby.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Hi and welcome to ECF. Sounds like it was a cold solder which is a fairly common issues with PVs and APVs. Should be safe to use. For safety sake not a good idea to charge batts unattended in case the shutoff chip fails= thermal runaway/ fire/ explosion.

 

[bacc.vap]

If that's really all that was wrong with it then it should be safe to use, but it's impossible to say for sure from here. I'd say if you can return it for another, go for it, then again if they can tell you messed with it the warranty might be considered null and void, it's a tough decision.

 

[Mutescream]

What kind of solder did you use? I ask, as that is a point that can get heated up... I would use silver, rather than standard tin/lead.

 

[nc527]

Good point mutescream. Although I am going to say I'm pretty sure it was tin/lead from the factory, considering the way it melted easily with my soldering iron. From my understanding silver soldering requires a lot more heat then a standard soldering iron to melt. But I will atleast measure the temp of the point after a session of use.

As to the battery comments, I do normally charge it while I am awake, but it had died last night on me and I wanted to have it charged for today.


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[nc527]

Anyone else have input about the possibility of lead inhalation? I hardly even added any of my own solder, perhaps 1/8" max. Mostly just melted what was already there.


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[JacobDaniel]

If you are repairing/ making batt mods, its safe to use lead solder. If you are repairing/ making atty's, I would not use lead based solder.
Just clean the flux, if the liquid don't come i contact with the solder it should be fine.

 

[Requiem33]

heh lead inhalation... I smelt lead and make my own bullets

The solder should be fine but in my paranoia I would double check the leads with a meter just to make sure things are good and check contacts to ensure there's no area that could short. The battery itself sounds fine as it was just a lead that came off and needed to be re-attached.

If I was doing this I would say it was good to go but that's because I would have done the work and I'm the one using it. However if ever in doubt. Toss it and get a new one.

 

[Bunnykiller]

What kind of solder did you use? I ask, as that is a point that can get heated up... I would use silver, rather than standard tin/lead.

lead tin solder melts around 720F the silver bearing at about 780F if the pin gets hot enuf to melt the solder out of it.... the whole top end would be sizzling...

silver brazing is a whole other story... that requires a torch... 2000F

 

[nc527]

heh lead inhalation... I smelt lead and make my own bullets

The solder should be fine but in my paranoia I would double check the leads with a meter just to make sure things are good and check contacts to ensure there's no area that could short. The battery itself sounds fine as it was just a lead that came off and needed to be re-attached.

If I was doing this I would say it was good to go but that's because I would have done the work and I'm the one using it. However if ever in doubt. Toss it and get a new one.

I'm pretty confident in my soldering ability, I spent about a week practicing on old pcb boards in prep for my last small soldering job with similar wire, and was sure to leave as little as possible exposed wire outside the joint. I also was careful to repack the wire straight down into the tube, and the whole pin is surrounded by the white rubber insulation, making the chance of a short pretty low.

However, I have decided to start charging my batts inside a ceramic canister, that way in the event of some catastrophic short, the fire would be trapped inside the canister, and would hopefully be choked off from lack of oxygen way before the ceramic would heat enough to burn the wooden desk it sits on. This may be overkill, but there are reports of pv's burning/ exploding, and being a firefighter myself, I would rather be overprotective then risk burning my house down.


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[nc527]

lead tin solder melts around 720F the silver bearing at about 780F if the pin gets hot enuf to melt the solder out of it.... the whole top end would be sizzling...

silver brazing is a whole other story... that requires a torch... 2000F

Ahh it was silver brazing I was thinking about. Specifically the way in which shotgun barrels are silver brazed together.

When you mention a "silver bearing", are you referring to the center post as being made of silver?


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[Free6413]

Most of the soldering done today are done by robots or machinery designed to have a certain margin of error. If you soldered it in it still works, you probably did a better job than the factory it was made at. I would keep an eye on it by checking for heat while it is charging. If it doesn't get too hot to touch then it should be ok. I hope it works out for you. Take care and Happy Vaping!

 

[JacobDaniel]

lead tin solder melts around 720F the silver bearing at about 780F if the pin gets hot enuf to melt the solder out of it.... the whole top end would be sizzling...

silver brazing is a whole other story... that requires a torch... 2000F

I would double check your temp ratings.

source: Solder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia