Intermittent fire button on your tube mod > this is the fix for mine (with photos)

[Flt Simulation]

Your mech tube mod fire button may [not] be designed like mine is, so obviously this thread will be of no help to you ... but, if you have a contact screw on your fire button that looks like mine, you [may] be getting intermittent firing like I did.

In the photo below, you can see that the head of this copper plated contact screw has points on it that are shaped for use with a standard wrench. The biggest problem is that the head is very wide causing the points to sometimes contact the outer vinyl wrapping on the end of the battery.

And when this happens, it don't always make a good metal to metal contact .. fiddling with the fire button by putting a sideways load on it with your finger when pushing the fire button in, will then usually get the mod to fire.

Here is a photo of the large copper plated fire button contact, and a photo showing the Efest battery's red vinyl covering:

This fix for this problem is to remove the fire button contact screw and grind off those points on it ... This obviously made the contact a round shape and smaller in diameter. Here is the photo after modification (I polished the contact screw after grinding it with the Dremel)

Now the vinyl on the battery don't interfere with the fire button brass contact when the fire button is pressed .... Problem FIXED!

Hey ... if this helps just one member here, I'm happy

 

[Flt Simulation]

Be advised ... intermittent firing can also be caused by the contact pin in the tubes top cap not making good contact with the 510 pin connector on your atomizer ... or a battery that is loose in the tube between the top cap and the bottom cap (battery rattle).

Obviously, that would need to be addressed first.

 

[Flt Simulation]

While were talking about mods that don't fire properly, here is another problem I have run into:

The little center firing pin in the bottom of your atomizer's 510 connection needs to protrude slightly from the outer threaded part.

If it don't, and both these pieces are of equal length, you won't get a good electrical connection. In fact, it could result in a dead short.

This was the problem I had with a Kanger Aerotank Mega I sometimes use ... What I had to do was remove the atomizer's center pin and then grind down the outer threaded part slightly.

Once the center pin was re-installed, it then protruded out past the threaded part (which was now ground down shorter) ... FIXED

Here is a photo showing how the pin now sticks out further that the threaded part:

 

[jpcwon]

Yep, I've had several attys where the center pin didn't stick out far enough to make a good connection. Now I appreciate attys that have adjustable 510 connections a lot more!

 

[anumber1]

While were talking about mods that don't fire properly, here is another problem I have run into:

The little center firing pin in the bottom of your atomizer's 510 connection needs to protrude slightly from the outer threaded part.

If it don't, and both these pieces are of equal length, you won't get a good electrical connection. In fact, it could result in a dead short.

This was the problem I had with a Kanger Aerotank Mega I sometimes use ... What I had to do was remove the atomizer's center pin and then grind down the outer threaded part slightly.

Once the center pin was re-installed, it then protruded out past the threaded part (which was not ground down shorter) ... FIXED

Here is a photo showing how the pin now sticks out further that the threaded part:

This problem is worse on a mod with a hybrid 510 connection like a 4nine where you can easily end up with a dead short using an atomizer with a too short center pin.

 

[Flt Simulation]

Good info .... A great many of us know all this already, but there's always the new person that is just learning about this stuff. These folks can certainly benefit.

 

[sando7]

just to add a small tidbit to the already great info....a pencil eraser works wonders for cleaning the contact area's on your mod and battery.