Thats a 0.3Ω build and on the mech reo I'm using it at 53 - 43 watts, as the battery goes from 4.15 - 3.6 volts
My first build!
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Go buy one of those coiling tools , where you thread the wire through choose a rod size and twist one of the ends.
At the least you don't have to cut off as much wire as you do when wrapping by hand.
The wick is just a thing you develop an eye for as just want it to go through without having to yank it through or for it to fall through but still filling the inside of the coil. Then I just cut the ends usually a little past the edge of the deck and fold them down to the deck.
Yours may be a clone, but at least it's not battle scarred after 3 weeks like mine. I will say, clones are not a bad thing. They can be better or worse, the reviews are good before purchase to look at. If it's a good clone, don't be afraid.
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Wick doesn't burn because it has juice on it. The coils are vaporising liquid thats in the wick.
The coil is vaporising the liquid in the wick inside the coils and slightly at each end of the coil and when thats done other liquid from the rest of the wick takes its place.
It felt great! Thank you!First successful build feels so good. Congrats.
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When i first attempted building, I had issues, and I came to the conclusion that the coil heats what is there between wraps, and any wick outside the wraps is useless. Was I wrong?
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My first one lasted me a week, and I went through a 120ml of liquid on it. But it looked so ragged from the start, I don't know how it did so well.
Was at work going "look at what I made!" Lol...
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I'll throw in a few observations.
Larger wire is a bit of a double edged sword as it simultaneously has lower resistance and takes a higher voltage to heat as well as has a lower resistance, so generating the voltage off a limited device (50 watts or less) is going to be difficult without further adding to the mass.
So get lighter wire and wind with tension, your coils will come out much more evenly.
As for wicking, I rarely go under a 2.3 mm inner coil diameter anymore; the majority of my coils have a 3 mm inner diameter. This creates a larger instantly available reservoir of liquid to be vaporized as well as creates a nice fat supply pipe to freed the juice to the coil. I also find it is easier to get the right inner wick tension/compression inside the coil if there is more space to fill. The outer diameter of the wick should be about 50% larger than the coil inner diameter while the wick is rolled out, uncompressed, and fluffy.
Higher wattage vaper juice faster. If I stuck to my tanks I'd vape 8 ml of juice a day. I blew 15 ml in 12 hours with my 0.22 ohm dual parallel twisted on my mad hatter. The clapton pair I have in it now isn't much better.
Edit:
It is also good to know the voltage range your mod is capable of if you have a variable voltage/wattage mod.
You will get a good mix of controllability and power off the istick 50 if you build close to 1.2 ohm.
Larger wire is a bit of a double edged sword as it simultaneously has lower resistance and takes a higher voltage to heat as well as has a lower resistance, so generating the voltage off a limited device (50 watts or less) is going to be difficult without further adding to the mass.
So get lighter wire and wind with tension, your coils will come out much more evenly.
As for wicking, I rarely go under a 2.3 mm inner coil diameter anymore; the majority of my coils have a 3 mm inner diameter. This creates a larger instantly available reservoir of liquid to be vaporized as well as creates a nice fat supply pipe to freed the juice to the coil. I also find it is easier to get the right inner wick tension/compression inside the coil if there is more space to fill. The outer diameter of the wick should be about 50% larger than the coil inner diameter while the wick is rolled out, uncompressed, and fluffy.
Higher wattage vaper juice faster. If I stuck to my tanks I'd vape 8 ml of juice a day. I blew 15 ml in 12 hours with my 0.22 ohm dual parallel twisted on my mad hatter. The clapton pair I have in it now isn't much better.
Edit:
It is also good to know the voltage range your mod is capable of if you have a variable voltage/wattage mod.
You will get a good mix of controllability and power off the istick 50 if you build close to 1.2 ohm.
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Well it depends on how you've wicked the build. Ever done a build put some liquid on the wicks and then fired it without the top cap on so you can see it ?
I understand gauge to ohm, 32 is higher ohm, 22 is lower ohm, but when you say "larger" are you referring to the lower or the higher gauge?
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All the time, that's usually how I saturate, take the barrel off, paint. Occasionally I'll hit with the barrel off and watch, but it's an amusement thing, I don't know what to watch for to understand if something's wrong and if it's visible.
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The higher the gauge of wire the thinner it will be and the less wraps needed for the same resistance then a lower gauge wire.
Thank you. So, if I were to wrap them closer and make my wicks longer that should produce a better result than spaced with less length?
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I can't stop talking about it with my friends, they vape but know nothing about it and only use tanks, which is still good but they don't really know how to build so they treat me like the vape God
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I only have one that vapes and they're starting out, ce4 and 650mah. Kills me to see them not going for a 20w off the bat. I wasted so much on multiple colored egos.
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Wire that is physically larger. Lower AWG #. The mass has a larger ∆T
Well using less wire which you would do by not having the wire spaced will lower your ohms. Using the coiling tool and having contact coils I'm able to get more wraps.
Length doesn't matter that much , if its touching the bottom of the deck for the juice to get to it your fine.
Although You don't want the wick to be flimsy inside the coils and the ends to be too long where the ends of the wick can get full of juice and pull the wick away from touching the inside of the coils. Then the wick can singe.
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