Purchasing First Mech (Nemesis clone) Shopping List - Everything I Need?

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TheOnyxEgg

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Jun 13, 2014
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Coming up on my one year anniversary of being cigarette free and felt like I deserved a new mod.

First mod was an iTaste MVP V1, been thrilled with how it's held up over the last year and have been pretty satisfied with the performance. I've settled in to using it at 3.7v - 4.2v with LR Boge cartos and IbTanked tanks. I even find myself being satisfied with the vape I get from a fresh eGO battery and those cartos while the MVP is charging. I will likely continue using this cartotank setup with whatever mod I end up getting.

The fact that I'm satisfied with the performance I get as outlined above leads me to believe that I would be pretty happy with a mech. (If it ends up not being enough umph I could always grab a Evolv v2) I also love the idea of the simplicity of mechs and the ability to try out an RBA effectively if I decide to go that route down the road.

After much searching, I think I've settled on the hcigar Copper Nemesis clone. Here's what I have on my shopping list, am I missing anything?

hcigar Copper Nemesis
Fatdaddy Magnet and Contact upgrade
Xtar VP1 charger
2 X Sony VTC5s

Also, if you think I'm crazy for considering a mech to use with LR cartos, please let me know as I'd considered a Sigelei ZMax as well but am wary of reliability issues with regulated mods. Also not looking to spend more than around $100 or so total. :)

Thanks in advance!
 

rawr

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Nemesis OK
Fatdaddy Magnet and Contact upgrade NOT OK high price, and only 2 in package, they are extremely fragile! Dealextreme, 5 or 10-pack...
Xtar VP1 charger NOT OK Get efest luc or nitecore i4
2 X Sony VTC5s MORE than OK :)
+
Organic cotton
Kanthal a1 wire
Kayfun 3.1 clone for RBA; single coil + 15W kick module
Magma for RDA
Multimeter, ohm meter

:vapor:
 

Dhim

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If you are going to stick with LR carto's you probably want a regulated mod like a zmax or vamo on the cheap. You will love variable wattage on carto tanks. Plus you will get a ohm and voltage reader with either of those devices. Then if / when you decide to go rebuildable, you can pick up a mech.

Just my .02, but I'm a huge fan of regulated mods especially when you are dealing with standard atomizers.
 

TheOnyxEgg

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Jun 13, 2014
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Minneapolis, MN, USA
Nemesis OK
Fatdaddy Magnet and Contact upgrade NOT OK high price, and only 2 in package, they are extremely fragile! Dealextreme, 5 or 10-pack...
Xtar VP1 charger NOT OK Get efest luc or nitecore i4
2 X Sony VTC5s MORE than OK :)
+
Organic cotton
Kanthal a1 wire
Kayfun 3.1 clone for RBA; single coil + 15W kick module
Magma for RDA
Multimeter, ohm meter

:vapor:

Thanks for the recommendations! I'll keep the RBA/RDA stuff in mind for the future if I go that route.

Why do you recommend the Efest Luc or Nitecore i4 over the Xtar VP1?
 

TheOnyxEgg

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Jun 13, 2014
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If you are going to stick with LR carto's you probably want a regulated mod like a zmax or vamo on the cheap. You will love variable wattage on carto tanks. Plus you will get a ohm and voltage reader with either of those devices. Then if / when you decide to go rebuildable, you can pick up a mech.

Just my .02, but I'm a huge fan of regulated mods especially when you are dealing with standard atomizers.

I'm wondering what the benefits of the regulated mod would be if I don't enjoy running the LR Cartos at higher than 4.2v or so. (Have tried, not for me) I suppose you get the more consistent output over the charge-life of the battery, is there something else I'm missing? I tend to be a set it and forget it kind of guy with the MVP, other than bells and whistles like built in meter am I gaining anything by going with a Zmax etc vs getting an Evolv kick in a mech?
 

TheOnyxEgg

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They are better chargers. The Luc V4 is awesome, I love mine but it might be overkill to start. Nitecore I think has a 2 battery charger for under $20 at most places.

Sorry if I'm being dense or difficult... but WHY are they better chargers? I would like to learn as much as I can while I'm at this, and a reason of "It's just better" doesn't satisfy that itch. :)
 

Dhim

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Remember 4.2v is only for a short time on a 3.7v battery, and of course atomizer dependent as well with varying resistance. A kicked mech mod will give you similar output, for sure. However as a first mod, its not bad to have the "bells and whistles" like the voltage and ohm readouts. Of course you can get that with a stand alone device as well. It's all personal preference really, but I think most would agree having those readouts in one way or another is very close to a mandate. It lets you make sure you know what you're vaping and the condition of your batteries. *Safety first* sort of thing there.

Either way, you will be quite happy with your choice. I'd would just say if you are going to go mech, pick up one of those readers for under $20. Def worth the investment.
 

Dhim

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Sorry if I'm being dense or difficult... but WHY are they better chargers? I would like to learn as much as I can while I'm at this, and a reason of "It's just better" doesn't satisfy that itch. :)

I actually mistyped and meant better for the money. For $40 you can get the luc v4 which is a 4 bay charger which holds up to 26650 batteries and can be toggled for 0.5, 1.0, and 2 amps (2amp for 26650). Nitecore has a slightly more basic informational panel, but can be had in the sub 20-20 dollar range. No need to drop $40+ on a 2 bay charger. Not that the charger is crap, just overkill.
 

NealBJr

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Sorry if I'm being dense or difficult... but WHY are they better chargers? I would like to learn as much as I can while I'm at this, and a reason of "It's just better" doesn't satisfy that itch. :)

Without knowing the full specs of the Xtar, let me point out some differences between chargers.

For one, some have trickle charges. Smart chargers detect the voltage of the battery as it charges. When it reaches a particular level, it stops the full charge, and goes into trickle charge. I know the Nitecore I4 does that. Some other chargers will just display a green light and continue charging, others just shut off charging and don't do a trickle charge.

Also, the shape of the charger has to do with a lot. The Nitecore can charge a wide variety of batteries.

There is also two channels on the I4 charger. Let's say you have 1000Mah charging on the charger itself... for the nitecore, two batteries share one 1000Mah channel, and two others at another 1000MaH. some chargers put all four batteries on that one 1000Mah channel, so you'd charge four batteries @ 250MaH each. The MaH is just made up by me, since I don't know the actual MaH of the Nitecore offhand, so I chose 1000 as an arbitrary number.

There is the capability of charging NIMH with the nitecore chargers. I dunno if the Xtar can, or if it's even important to you.

Build quality has to come into play as well. how well made is the Xtar.

Also, with the Nitecore, the power cable is seperate than the charger unit. It may not seem important, but if the cable comes off, or is crimped or damaged, it's easy to find a replacement.

The nitecore also has a unit that you can put on a flat surface or stand it up. IF you wish to have added safety precautions while charging, you could put the whole charger into a fireproof box/container.
 

TheColdHandedVG

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Well, I have a nitcore 2 bay charger and it's great. It has a little etched in battery symbol above each bay and each battery symbol has 3 little LED's that let you know what the battery level is at while charging. It also determines the correct output volatage for charging your battery by first determining what type of battery you inserted into the charger. It sends a current through the battery and somehow knows exactly what type of battery you inserted and charges it based on that. It's just all around a great charger. It can fit any battery you want to put in it (that I can think of at least). It stops charging when charging is complete, so not overcharging. Reverse battery protection, etc.... You name it, Nitecore probably thought of it...
 

NealBJr

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Now, going back to your first recommendation, I am kind of displeased with the Nemesis. for one, the button is crunchy. if you push the button from the edge of the button, it will stick, and not fire. I'd say my nemesis has a %50 chance of firing each time I push the button. That can be very frustrating. Second, you will need four magnets for the upgrade. With two magnets, it will fire under it's own weight. I'd get spares, since I've already broken three magnets.. two broke while in the mod itself, and one while assembling. These magnets are VERY fragile and four are needed. If you can get a 5 or 10 pack, then definately get them.

Lastly, I don't like the locking ring. It fits flush to the mod, and will get stuck in either the open or the closed position. The locking ring is smooth on mine, and the brushed stainless is easier to "grab" when I screw and unscrew it. So, when I go to unlock it, I will inadvertantly unscrew the bottom cap. It also has fine threads, so to unlock or lock it, I have to go through 10 rotations before it is locked or unlocked.. which is very time consuming.

A kicked Nemesis is what I use, and that even complciates things more when it comes to alignment. But it seems I'm always fiddling with the adjustments when I just want a vape.

Now, of course, I have a clone, and from what I hear, it's a good verison of the clone. But in the reviews, everyone who compared it to the original stated it was as good as the original. IF it is, then it's one I'd end up returning if I spent more on it.

The one mod I've had few problems with is the Caravela clone. It's worked flawlessly for me. Only downside to that is 1) not kickable (which is why I got the Nemesis), 2) No magnet upgrades, and 3) firing button is the entire bottom of the mod... like the Nemesis... so I have to be carefull when I stand it up.


Here's links to exactly what I bought so you can use it for reference:

Nemesis
Nemesis Magnets
Variable Wattage Kick
Mixed Caravella
 

TheOnyxEgg

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Jun 13, 2014
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Thanks for all the advice so far!

I do like the looks of the Caravela clones as well, however the inability to add a kick if I want to has made me shy away from them for my first go. Given the G.A.S. that I've had with other hobbies I've gotten in to (guitars/amps, hifi, etc) I'm guessing that this will simply be my first of many.

I'll also take a closer look at the nitecore and LUC chargers. NIMH compatibility doesn't matter to me, though the build quality of the charger does. Had heard some thought the nitecore was a bit flimsy, though now that I'm think about it I have no idea what model charger that was or how long ago... much can change in a short time in this world. :)
 

Forkeh

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Good call!

I have a fairly standard multimeter from home depot that I've used for car audio and guitar/amplifier repairs, guessing that this would do the trick?

Yes it will do the trick. However, trust me, just get a screw on ohm meter. It's SO MUCH easier when trying to test the resistance. The difference in frustration level is night and day. And they're only like $10, and you can get them anywhere mech mods are sold.

You also may want to look into getting a vape safe fuse. They're really cheap, and offer you some protection against a short. And I know from personal experience that they will, in fact, work in a Nemesis clone, even with an 18650 battery. The kit includes a very small extension ring for that (some of the retailers call it a "beauty ring" and some call it a "kick ring" but it's not really either). Honestly unless you're subohming with a setup that pulls over 7 amp (that's the cut off), there's really no reason not to use one with as cheap and easy to instal as they are. A safety back up is never a bad thing, even if you test your equipment like you're supposed to ;)

Oh, also, my suggestion is that if you go with the Nemesis clone, find a genuine HCigar clone and not some random clone you don't know the make of. HCigar makes a darn good clone. The threading is very nice, and the firing button isn't half bad (mine only gets annoyingly crunchy if the bottom contact screw screws out too much. You have to tighten it sometimes).
 
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Blackboar

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I completely understand your desire to move into mechanical mods. While I love my VV mod, there is something about the feel of a mech mod that just screams class. With that in mind, the Nemesis clones are a very popular choice. I don't own one, but from what I've read, they do what is expected out of a mech mod, and with the right upgrades, you'll get a very respectable voltage drop. However, the problems that people have talked about are going to present a learning curve for you. I know with my first mech mod, a Chi You clone, it took me a while to get the adjustable contacts right before there was no battery rattle. Then I unscrewed it to change my batteries a few times, and my fire button loosened up. The Neme has a similar set up and you'll just need to be aware of those things.

If you wanted to get into mech mods, I'd actually recommend a Stingray clone. It already comes with magnets. It uses a floating adjustable 510 connection pin and the adjustment for battery rattle seems easier to use than the Nemesis. It also comes in sexy copper :) The price is usually a bit more expensive than the Nemesis, but you'll save on not having to get the extra magnets for an upgrade.

Also, just my personal opinion, but for my all day attys that are above 1.1 ohms, I prefer to vape them on a VV mod. I only use my mechs for RDA's that are built sub-ohm and then only when I'm at home or going to a vape store. The reason is I usually use the VV mod for is because I like a consistent vape. While the mech mod's 4.2 to 3.7 is in your range of preferred voltage, the shift from 4.2 to a 3.7 vape is a very noticeable shift. I'd rather have the constant voltage and just change batteries when it starts to flash red, rather than taste the diminishing vape on my all day vape. On my mechs, I change the battery after no more than an hours' worth of vape to keep it as fresh as possible. If I throw that battery on a multimeter, it still reads about 3.9v, but I can taste the drop.
 
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