Which regulated mod to buy

[DutchFlyer]

I'm pretty new, but here's what I went with:

1: pureblu. Little cartomizer cigarette looking thing. Did it several years ago. They were nice for a few minutes, but the batteries died so quickly, the cartomizers ran out of juice really fast, and the atomizers went bad quickly too. I had no idea of any of this, I just knew they sucked after 5 minutes of vaping. Abandoned vaping for about 3 and a half years.
2: eGo twist knock-off. About 3.5 weeks ago. Loved it. Decided to delve in further.
3: eVic. About two weeks ago. Awesome mod. Very techie-friendly (that's me). But also kind of finicky, and build quality is... kind of fragile. No issues with mine, but I'm not expecting much longevity. Also, limited to 11W. Now, that's a lot, but if building your own atomizers is in your future, sooner or later you're going to want to experiment past the eVic's limits.
4: Provari Mini. Ordered last week. Hasn't arrived yet. Cannot wait to play.

 

[AGTUNING]

+2 on Provari

 

[DaveP]

I am very happy with my eVic. Terrific information on the main screen, volts, watts, ohms, battery graph, drag timer (more than any other that I've seen). Variable voltage and wattage. Inexpensive, relatively small. No 'rattlesnake sound', it is a straight DC output, not a pulse width modulated type ('max'es, vamo, provari), very even heat on the coils. It is the only regulated mod that I've seen with upgradable firmware to give it new and improved features. Passthrough (you can vape while it charges). 2600mAh battery, lasts a full, heavy vaping day for me. Complete kit for $104, hard to beat.

Sure about the straight DC output? Variable voltage regulators rely on a pulse train using amplitude or pulse width modulation (almost all vv/vw mods) to create a variable waveform. It's usually about the duty cycle. The only way I know to create variable DC without an oscillator and triac type circuit is by using a wirewound rheostat or a large power tranisistor which would need a substantial box for the circuitry with a heat sink. Check the output on an O-scope.