firqt dive into mechs

[Thrasher]

No adaptor needed the mod comes with a standard 510 topcap

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

You don't need a kick to operate a mech safely , you need knowledge , a digital multimeter , an ohm meter and good batteries . A kick converts a mech into a VV/VW device , kinda defeats the purpose of going electronics free IMO .

That's what I was thinking. But I do want to pick up a mod disposable mod fuse on the off chance I get one littlething wrong along the way

 

[VictorViper]

You can get a great vape on a mech at 0.7. You can get a good vape at 1.8 and under, for Pete's sake. There are countless reasons to NOT get a mech, but wanting to vape above 0.3ohm is not one of them.

And let me nit-pick: Sub-ohm = <1.0ohm resistance. Pretty cut and dry.

To the OP, the best thing to remember is that all of your variables come from your choice of wire and how you make your coils. 26awg will be your best friend for a while.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

You can get a great vape on a mech at 0.7. You can get a good vape at 1.8 and under, for Pete's sake. There are countless reasons to NOT get a mech, but wanting to vape above 0.3ohm is not one of them.

And let me nit-pick: Sub-ohm = <1.0ohm resistance. Pretty cut and dry.

To the OP, the best thing to remember is that all of your variables come from your choice of wire and how you make your coils. 26awg will be your best friend for a while.

Thanks. Right now I just have 28 and 31 gauge so I'll put 26 on my list of needed supplies. My interest in mechs comes from their simplicity. No wires or chips needed just a thourough uqnderstanding of battery safety and ohms law. I'm the tinkering type so mechs are really appealing to me.

 

[VictorViper]

You're going to love it, then. I mention 26 only because it tends to be the most versatile gauge, at least in my experience, but 28 is just fine. I've built more coils with 28awg than any other wire.

[EDIT] For what it's worth, I usually vape with 0.3-0.8ohm coils. All depends on my atty and my intended results.

 

[edyle]

Thanks edyle for all that info.

I'll look into the elm rda. So if I buy the tree of life I will need a 510 adapter for my rda's? In the description it states that it has 510 threading.

Lastly is a kick chip necessary or can I safely operate a mech without one?

Thanks for all the help guys.

1:
If you buy the tree of life you will not need a 510 adapter for your rda's.
It is a regular mod.
If you get the elm rda, you can use it like a regular rda, or you could take the bottom 510 adapter off and take the topcap off the tree of life, and screw the rda directly to the mod to form what is called a true hybrid where there is no 510 thead connection to worry about.

2:
A kick module is not necessary, just as aircondition and windows are not necessary in your car.
But on the topic of considering a mod, one factor to look for is whether it comes with a kick tube; If it comes with a kick tube, then you can use a kick without having to buy an extra set of shorter batteries just to use a kick.

I like the astro myself.
The threading is m21x1 which is the same as my vamo, zmax, chiyou and king; and I can get spare m21x1 threaded kicktubes, topcaps and bottom caps for the chiyou from fasttech
The astro is telescopic, so there's no fiddling to get an exact fit.
The topcap that comes with the astro is floating pin; so no fiddling to get the rda/rta to fit flush

 

[KSS89]

hey xero! how you been. yeah I figured you would be wanting a mech soon after our last conversation lol. that mod should be awesome for you. from what you've said I would def do like a 0.6~ ohm dual coil in your freakshow to start. do a 9 wrap dual coil around a 2.5mm screw driver. remember in the freakshow to mount your coils somewhat away from the posts to avoid spit back. although with that resistance it shouldn't be too bad. 9 wraps is kind of a lot so if you find that they are not heating fast enough you can switch to 7 or 8 wraps with 28 gauge. as for mech safety just make sure to lock it when you set it down or pocket it and use an ohm reader after you build. you should get a steady reading that is close to what you were aiming for. and check your battery voltage regularly until you get a feel for how quickly it drains before you need a charge. with that set up you will probably notice pretty easily when the battery is getting low so that's good. should prob charge around 3.7 or so. so with that mech and the freakshow with the airflow somewhat closed off you will get a delicious vape that'll be a bit more compact than your old setup and will look really cool. good luck bud

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

I've been good and yourself?

Thanks for all the advice. Determining when to swap bats seems like it will be the trickiest part using a mech to me.

 

[doofy666]

Get a 510 to 510 inline voltmeter for measuring voltage and voltage drop

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

Thanks dooofy.

Is this a good ohm meter?
Round OHM Meter - RTD vapor

I'll be placing my battery order tomorrow. I am getting 2 vtc4's, aw 1490's, and 18350's to start. I already ordered the hcigar tree of life as my first mech. It had a lot of good reviews and I like the logo. It's coming in on Friday so I'm pretty happy about that.

I'll probably save up for a few months for an authentic mech for my next purchase. But for now I am happy picking up a clone. especially since I do not know if mechs are for me yet.

Also is cherrybomber a good vendor? I want to pick up some safety fuses and they were the only place I found with the vape safe v1 in stock.

Another big thanks to all you guys. You have been a great help getting me started.

 

[Kahina]

Thanks for all the advice. Determining when to swap bats seems like it will be the trickiest part using a mech to me.

I got used to knowing when quick enough. Use a volt meter like the one above to teach yourself how to gauge the battery voltage by how your vape feels.

And while we're at it, mechs aren't "just for low ohms". They are for those that want a power supply with no wires (other than the battery springs) and no electronics (other than whats in the battery), designed for minimal volt drop and power wastage, that can be stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt easily. In particular, those who understand ohms law and are happy to work within it's limits. What resistance they run is their business.

But given the way power and current draw can ramp up dramatically with small changes in resistance at ultra low ohms, it's the ultra low ohm users (especially the newer ones) who are better off with a regulated device, even if it's just for the sake of safety. The vets can do what they like.

Single 0.8 ohm coil in a KFL+ on a Poldiac. All genuine. Love it. Get a mech.

 

[Papillon61]

Sorry if this is totally off topic but I'm perhaps getting a little bit confused. Am I understanding correctly that, as seems to be suggested but some posts, that a low ohm build is better on a mech than a higher ohm build? Like someone said, 0.7 is ok but 0.5 is better. Does that mean I should not be using my 1.2 ohm on my mech? Please clarify this issue if you can. I probably got it all wrong.

 

[suprtrkr]

Sorry if this is totally off topic but I'm perhaps getting a little bit confused. Am I understanding correctly that, as seems to be suggested but some posts, that a low ohm build is better on a mech than a higher ohm build? Like someone said, 0.7 is ok but 0.5 is better. Does that mean I should not be using my 1.2 ohm on my mech? Please clarify this issue if you can. I probably got it all wrong.

You can run any ohms you like on a mech, provided you can safely draw the required current from whatever batteries you have in it. I can, and have, run >1.0 ohm coils on my mechs. "Better" is subjective. If you like the vape you're getting at 1.2, then vape at 1.2. I, personally, won't go below about .3 ohm on a mech, but this is because I don't like drawing on a pipe bomb. You can safely use .2 with 30 amp batteries (single battery), but I just don't do it. I like the thicker safety margin, and my fingers.

The thing about mechs is they're unregulated. You set the watts applied to the coil by building a coil of the right resistance to yield the watts you want at the battery voltage you have, and you live with the power declining as the battery discharges with use, because battery voltage drops. I personally would find 1.2 on a mech a bit anemic; that's not making a lot of watts. If you want clouds from a high ohm coil, you need a regulated VW box mod, or a two (or multi) battery series mech to increase the voltage. This may not apply to you. You might like low watt, high ohm vape just fine. For me, I usually build in the .3-.6 range, and change batteries at about 3.5V because the vape is getting thin.

I use mechs all the time, and I like them a lot. There is much to admire: simplicity, ease of use, less to go wrong, easy to clean, clean form factor and great beauty, you name it. That said, I also just ordered a Snow Wolf 200W box mod, so I can build higher ohms, and crank more watts through it.

 

[Papillon61]

You can run any ohms you like on a mech, provided you can safely draw the required current from whatever batteries you have in it. I can, and have, run >1.0 ohm coils on my mechs. "Better" is subjective. If you like the vape you're getting at 1.2, then vape at 1.2. I, personally, won't go below about .3 ohm on a mech, but this is because I don't like drawing on a pipe bomb. You can safely use .2 with 30 amp batteries (single battery), but I just don't do it. I like the thicker safety margin, and my fingers.

The thing about mechs is they're unregulated. You set the watts applied to the coil by building a coil of the right resistance to yield the watts you want at the battery voltage you have, and you live with the power declining as the battery discharges with use, because battery voltage drops. I personally would find 1.2 on a mech a bit anemic; that's not making a lot of watts. If you want clouds from a high ohm coil, you need a regulated VW box mod, or a two (or multi) battery series mech to increase the voltage. This may not apply to you. You might like low watt, high ohm vape just fine. For me, I usually build in the .3-.6 range, and change batteries at about 3.5V because the vape is getting thin.

I use mechs all the time, and I like them a lot. There is much to admire: simplicity, ease of use, less to go wrong, easy to clean, clean form factor and great beauty, you name it. That said, I also just ordered a Snow Wolf 200W box mod, so I can build higher ohms, and crank more watts through it.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not a cloud chaser - more of a tootle puffer. I do have regulated mods but I have had to acquire a number of unregulated tubes and batteries because of their durability in case the market here in Europe becomes really restrictive as we envisage it will over the coming 12 months. I agree that a 1.2 -1.5 ohm build on a mech does taste a little anemic but as long as it is safe that need not be a very big issue for me. Thanks for setting my mind at rest.

 

[suprtrkr]

Thanks for the reply. I'm not a cloud chaser - more of a tootle puffer. I do have regulated mods but I have had to acquire a number of unregulated tubes and batteries because of their durability in case the market here in Europe becomes really restrictive as we envisage it will over the coming 12 months. I agree that a 1.2 -1.5 ohm build on a mech does taste a little anemic but as long as it is safe that need not be a very big issue for me. Thanks for setting my mind at rest.

Any time. Buy good batteries: I like Sonys, but Panasonic and AW and Orbtronic house brands are also well thought of. It's also worth the money to invest in a good Xtar charger with the screen readout so you can see how your batts get weaker over time and judge when to replace them. I always get 30A batts, but I vape lower ohms than you. If you're really going to vape 1.2s, you can live with 20 or even 10A batts. You can get those with greater capacity, so they last longer and spend more time in the mod and less on the charger. Stay safe and vape happy... and don't be surprised if you want slightly lower ohms on a mech to keep vapor production up. 20A batteries will handle .8 all day.

 

[Papillon61]

Thanks - yes, I have bought the best I could afford and all from reputable sources. I've looked at this as an investment in both my health (not going back to smoking) and my safety, so I did not skimp.

 

[madangus]

If you can't find any of the samsung these also have gotten good recommendations on here and tend to be less of a target for counterfeits
18650 LG 18650HE2 2500mAh High Discharge Flat Top

The he4s are updates to the he2 both 20amp continuous.

Just to give you another good option.

 

[doofy666]

I agree that a 1.2 -1.5 ohm build on a mech does taste a little anemic

My 1.3 Kayfun build is not anemic on a mech - it gives me exactly what I want.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

My tree of life came in today. Everything seems to be inworking order as far as I can tell. All the threads are easy to screw/unscrew. My rda's also sit flush and I really like how my mutation x3 looks on it. My batteries won't be until next week though so I want play around with it yet.

Do I need to clean it before using? I have seen folks say you do and others that you don't when I did a quick search. Is there anything else I need to do as well before using my new mod?

I'm really looking forward to trying out my new mod when my batteries come in.

 

[Thrasher]

You dont have to clean it but since you have time it doesnt hurt to check anyways, who knows what they may have missed at the factory and what residue may be left in the threads or button.