Here is my build in the Velocity, 26g 12 wrap 2.5 ID .12Ω......vapes great. The design of the Velocity's posts and way it traps the leads is ideal for nickel.
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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Awesome setup Randy! I know you have been searching for a good 2 posts rda for a while now. I been searching for one as well, and the Velocity had my attention, I just wish it had 'regular' screws instead of thru post holes. (excuse my poor grammar) 
Did you have any issues with connections or snapping wires when tightening? I guess what I am trying to ask is simply, how solid is the connection? Any comments you could share?
cheers!
Did you have any issues with connections or snapping wires when tightening? I guess what I am trying to ask is simply, how solid is the connection? Any comments you could share?
cheers!
I've been curious about the velocity rda glad to hear it works well with nickel. My all time favorite still for nickel builds is the xpro classic by smok. It's a two post design with unique thumbscrews that trap the wire in the post slots. Plenty of room for a good sized coil. Deep well with shutter style cyclops eye airflow controlled by screwing down the top cap. I love these attys so much I have two of them and they are my only drippers now.
After a week of reading I finally made it through this topic
New to temperature control, picked up a vapor shark DNA40 last week and have a Royal Hunter rda on it. Works great with ni200.
My first build was with 26g and like 14 wraps on. 3mm wasn't to bad. Just got my hands on 30g and 32g and wow feel like I'm a neweb again at coil making. Totally springy and after reading up I do not want to torch or dry burn hit red.
I might have to try some tempered wire it really is night and day from kenthol
I did a few builds with 30&32 but ended up going basic 28 need more experience for the higher Gage's
New to temperature control, picked up a vapor shark DNA40 last week and have a Royal Hunter rda on it. Works great with ni200.
My first build was with 26g and like 14 wraps on. 3mm wasn't to bad. Just got my hands on 30g and 32g and wow feel like I'm a neweb again at coil making. Totally springy and after reading up I do not want to torch or dry burn hit red.
I might have to try some tempered wire it really is night and day from kenthol
I did a few builds with 30&32 but ended up going basic 28 need more experience for the higher Gage's
I've stuck with 28g for Ni200 and kanthal. I'm vaping on a 2 month old ni200 coil. I rewick every 5-10 days and clean the coil with a toothbrush. You can get most of the crud off and it doesn't get any worse with time.
I tried 28g nickel but prefer 30g. It takes some getting used to but once you master it you can build coil in no time. .15 consistently in all my sub tanks with the 30g heats up fast and gives a great vape at 20 watts. Coils don't gunk up as bad as kanthal. Rinse, brush, re wick every couple of weeks. I usually get about 2 months out of a coil.
I've been using the nail method and 28 gauge. Hit .09 every time. Quick and easy. However, I change out the coils every week as I'm vaping a sweet coffee concoction that gunks a coil like nobody's business...
I've tried 30g and 28g and coils from .10 - .22Ω. I found .10-.12Ω works best for me. 3mm ID, 7 wraps of 28g.
I have a sweet coffee juice and it does gunk my coil. I wick that one every 2-4 tanks and clean the wick with a toothbrush. The coil is about 6 weeks old and no plans on rebuilding a new coil for it any time soon.
I have a sweet coffee juice and it does gunk my coil. I wick that one every 2-4 tanks and clean the wick with a toothbrush. The coil is about 6 weeks old and no plans on rebuilding a new coil for it any time soon.
Me too, Love the sub tank mini. first coil I ever made was on this. Great and easy.
Awesome setup Randy! I know you have been searching for a good 2 posts rda for a while now. I been searching for one as well, and the Velocity had my attention, I just wish it had 'regular' screws instead of thru post holes. (excuse my poor grammar)
Did you have any issues with connections or snapping wires when tightening? I guess what I am trying to ask is simply, how solid is the connection? Any comments you could share?
cheers!
Trapping the leads is where the Velocity shines the most. In nearly all RDA's the screw is on top and as you tighten it, because the post is hollow, you are pushing through the wire, making it easy to clip. In the Velocity you are pinning the wire against the post wall, not pushing through it. It would be perfect if it had a single coil airflow option, but with the ability to fine tune the airflow to whatever you want, it is not really a drawback.
I have always hated the way the posts in most RDAs are hollow, it would solve so many issues if they just drilled the screw hole above the post hole and not below. When you trap your leads you don't want to thread below the wire anyway.
This is by far the best Ni atty (RDA or RTA) I have used, though I still have yet to try the Hobo V3, which also looks promising.
I'm starting to get the hang of ni200, twisted coils are just not working for me for some reason. I also have been running into the dna40 not updating it's coil.
But found a trick to force it to restart this started to make things easier -
Take you atty off, then unlock the DNA40 this will prompt check your atty and reset it.. At least this is what I've been doing.
Lock it again, put your atty on with new coil and unlock should take your new coil now.
This may be a basic thing, but I was unaware of it and the DNA40 kept thinking my coils were the same even with a .5 differences.
Currently running .12 Ohms with 9 wraps of 30g ni200 (compressed) with KGD cotton (Royal Hunter - Vaporshark DNA40/)
Question: Has anyone had any luck with twisted 30g compressed without heating it up? They just don't seem to read right on my VaporShark.
But found a trick to force it to restart this started to make things easier -
Take you atty off, then unlock the DNA40 this will prompt check your atty and reset it.. At least this is what I've been doing.
Lock it again, put your atty on with new coil and unlock should take your new coil now.
This may be a basic thing, but I was unaware of it and the DNA40 kept thinking my coils were the same even with a .5 differences.
Currently running .12 Ohms with 9 wraps of 30g ni200 (compressed) with KGD cotton (Royal Hunter - Vaporshark DNA40/)
Question: Has anyone had any luck with twisted 30g compressed without heating it up? They just don't seem to read right on my VaporShark.
Example. My meter will show my coil at .14 Ohms, but then when I put it on the VaporShark I get .9 Ohms and doesn't fire right at that Ohm.
Thanks
Thanks
Compressed coils are difficult to get to work correctly. Nickel doesn't build up a non-conductive layer like kanthal so the coils will short. Much better to just build spaced coils.
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Ok guys, I've spent like 3-4hr today in total trying build. Figuring this all out. My first 2 builds from the other day went great, but every build I run today seem to be off.
Specs: VaporShark DNA40 - Roaly Hunter -Wires I have 28g 30g 32g atomizer wick ni200
I've gone back to basics after doing twisted and others.
Currently I have 12 wraps spaced 28g reading at.15
Basically at lower temperatures I get hardly any Vape if any at 40w (this wasn't the case with my first two builds, however they were compressed)
If I run fresh, dry KGD cotton and run the temp up I can see light brown spots on at 480f and a touch at 460f.
If I wet the KGD and run the temp at say 500f it starts spitting and hitting like my first two builds..
I know ni200 and the DNA40 have been saying its a bit finicky and I can see it now.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
I was getting a lot of hot legs in my other builds as well this one looks solid but again only at higher temps.
I've been shooting for 1.4ohms should i be shooting lower 1.1 - 1.2 would this fig the need for higher temps, being temp controled it would of been less work.
I'll post a pick of the build here in a sec
Specs: VaporShark DNA40 - Roaly Hunter -Wires I have 28g 30g 32g atomizer wick ni200
I've gone back to basics after doing twisted and others.
Currently I have 12 wraps spaced 28g reading at.15
Basically at lower temperatures I get hardly any Vape if any at 40w (this wasn't the case with my first two builds, however they were compressed)
If I run fresh, dry KGD cotton and run the temp up I can see light brown spots on at 480f and a touch at 460f.
If I wet the KGD and run the temp at say 500f it starts spitting and hitting like my first two builds..
I know ni200 and the DNA40 have been saying its a bit finicky and I can see it now.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
I was getting a lot of hot legs in my other builds as well this one looks solid but again only at higher temps.
I've been shooting for 1.4ohms should i be shooting lower 1.1 - 1.2 would this fig the need for higher temps, being temp controled it would of been less work.
I'll post a pick of the build here in a sec
That is definitely more a contact coil than not. (With respect) Learn to build spaced, then you can walk on the wild side:
I think his coil looks great! I see no contact what so ever!....but damn, that's a lot of coil!
This coil makes contact in no less than two locationsThat is definitely more a contact coil than not. (With respect) Learn to build spaced, then you can walk on the wild side:
For nice even contact coils I use a screw.. THis example is Kanthal, but NI200 works just the same if not a touch better. Kanthal is more springy so when you unscrew the form the coils actually open up a bit more.
Simply wrap the wire fairly tight in the grooves for whatever wrap count you want and then GENTLY unscrew it while holding both sides of the coil. when the screw is out you are left with a nice evenly spaced coil.
On the jig:
Jig Removed:
If your like me and have to shift the coils once mounted leave the coil on the screw and use it to shift the position. just be gentle. if the wire is cinched down overly tight on the screw you will not be able to remove the screw without damaging or destroying the coil.
And here is a dual coil build this way using that screw as a jig with 28G NI200:
Simply wrap the wire fairly tight in the grooves for whatever wrap count you want and then GENTLY unscrew it while holding both sides of the coil. when the screw is out you are left with a nice evenly spaced coil.
On the jig:
Jig Removed:
If your like me and have to shift the coils once mounted leave the coil on the screw and use it to shift the position. just be gentle. if the wire is cinched down overly tight on the screw you will not be able to remove the screw without damaging or destroying the coil.
And here is a dual coil build this way using that screw as a jig with 28G NI200:
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