DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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Dont you guys get major issue from the KF4 spring Ohm shift or did you get the upgraded spring? (does it work well?) I also thought the KF4 was not designed for Subohm builds what does this even mean? lol
I also thought Sub Ohm coils were primarly for straight lung hits not sure why I got this in my head how is MTL on ni200? sorry for so many questions just being and want to know it all
I also thought Sub Ohm coils were primarly for straight lung hits not sure why I got this in my head how is MTL on ni200? sorry for so many questions just being and want to know it all
I have the updated gold spring, peek insulator and 4S airhole screw on mine. Works well. Before geting them, I filed my original silver spring flat on each end. That seemed to work well also.Dont you guys get major issue from the KF4 spring Ohm shift or did you get the upgraded spring? (does it work well?) I also thought the KF4 was not designed for Subohm builds what does this even mean? lol
I also thought Sub Ohm coils were primarly for straight lung hits not sure why I got this in my head how is MTL on ni200? sorry for so many questions just being and want to know it all
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Ok did even realize that it was not a peek insulator and after a little research i looks like POM-C is only good to 165C thats pretty low seeing that the Coil should be 200c+ (400f)(I know physical contact should not occur still)...... Had a look around and really could not see any peek insulators at a reasonable price I guess I might just have to shell out the cash to get one shipped from the US or EU..... I saw the one on Fasttech but some people are saying its not peek so I doubt it is.... An recommended stores?
Also Just realized also that gold is a higher resistance metal the silver lol guess it still makes a better connection however and that's all it is about..... Presumably your Filing method should as effective!..... Might just give the gold spring a miss that said not sure how resistant oxidized silver is!
Also Just realized also that gold is a higher resistance metal the silver lol guess it still makes a better connection however and that's all it is about..... Presumably your Filing method should as effective!..... Might just give the gold spring a miss that said not sure how resistant oxidized silver is!
If you're talking about KF4, Ecigcity sells the Tobeco sub ohm kit (PEEK insulator) for $4 Kayfun v4 4S Kit for Tobeco - Eciggity I actually have one in a KF4 base that's going unused...
I tried to build my first TC build using tempered Ni200 (32 gauge) from Lightning Vapes and it was working intermittently... if my mod turned off I'd have to take the atty off and screw it back on and make it reread it or it'd just "temp protect" after firing for a half a second. But then I realized that I shouldn't have made a contact coil so that was probably at least part of my problem. When it was working though it was nice, I had the build on a Tobh and it would hit really nice until the wick started to dry up (just a bit nowhere near dry burn dry) it would produce smaller hits then eventually just not let me hit it at all.
Another problem is that 32 gauge is ridiculously flimsy to work with, even tempered... I was thinking about ordering some 28 gauge regular NI200 from temco just to see what it's like. But going down into the lower gauges will make dual coiling pretty much impossible to not build it too low...
How do you guys feel about Ni200 twisted with kanthal? Does it work consistently even on devices without nickel purity settings?
Also, what has everyone found to be the resistance sweet spot? .15 to .17 ish?
Sorry I'm sure some of this has been gone over but reading 130 pages seems daunting.
Another problem is that 32 gauge is ridiculously flimsy to work with, even tempered... I was thinking about ordering some 28 gauge regular NI200 from temco just to see what it's like. But going down into the lower gauges will make dual coiling pretty much impossible to not build it too low...
How do you guys feel about Ni200 twisted with kanthal? Does it work consistently even on devices without nickel purity settings?
Also, what has everyone found to be the resistance sweet spot? .15 to .17 ish?
Sorry I'm sure some of this has been gone over but reading 130 pages seems daunting.
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You want to check this page out regarding kanthal and Ni200 Twist all you have to do is change the temperature limit by the look of it they OP posted a nice little table!
Twisted Ni 200 and Kanthal, correcting the DNA 40 temperature setting | E-Cigarette Forum
Twisted Ni 200 and Kanthal, correcting the DNA 40 temperature setting | E-Cigarette Forum
As you figured out on your own, contact nickel coils are frustrating and unstable. At least they always were for me. I've never used 32ga, but 30ga is my go to and works great. I also really like 29ga but normally stay away from 28ga because my coils end up too large for my tanks.
I've not had much luck twisting nickel my self, and I'm sure that's just experience. But twisting 2 or 3 strands of 32ga might work great.
Just as an FYI to the lazy or unskilled among us...I purchased the premade nickel coils from FastTech fully expecting them to arrive smashed or in some other way unusable and they turned out to be just the opposite! They arrived in perfect shape & almost perfectly spaced. I slapped one on my Subtank mini RBA and it's vaping great so far! I purchased the .15 coils and it's reading .16 but I expect that to refine down a tad.
This post is worthless without a link so here you go:
$2.81 Authentic Ni200 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 0.15ohm / 15*15mm leads / 8 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
This post is worthless without a link so here you go:
$2.81 Authentic Ni200 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 0.15ohm / 15*15mm leads / 8 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
How do the coils hold up to wicking? Do the coils feel stiff or soft. I wonder if they're using tempered nickel for their builds?
They definitely are tempered. They seem stiffer even than the tempered nickel I use from Stealth Vapes. Held up great to the initial wicking. Haven't tried to rewick it yet.
Can you dry burn Ni200, if not what method do you use to clean coils.
Just started using TC with Ni200, haven't decided yet what I think of it. Did my first builds (4) on Lemo V2s, 28ga 7/8 wraps 3mm spaced 0.13-0.17ohm. Wicked with rayon. 450 degrees 24w. I'm going to re-wick today with KGD cotton. Found flavor to be a little off on my adv jucies, little muted. I just torn down to clean and I see some buildup on coil that would not come off with artist brush I use to clean coils. Usually not a problem with kanthal would just dry burn.
Just started using TC with Ni200, haven't decided yet what I think of it. Did my first builds (4) on Lemo V2s, 28ga 7/8 wraps 3mm spaced 0.13-0.17ohm. Wicked with rayon. 450 degrees 24w. I'm going to re-wick today with KGD cotton. Found flavor to be a little off on my adv jucies, little muted. I just torn down to clean and I see some buildup on coil that would not come off with artist brush I use to clean coils. Usually not a problem with kanthal would just dry burn.
There are claims that dry burning ni200 will cause carbon leeching, and there are people who choose not to dry burn because of that.
There are others (like myself) who don't really see an issue with it. After all, Ni200 is 99.7% Ni, and the actual % of carbon is (IMO) too low to cause significant physiological effects. So we are ok with dry burning it.
Of course these are all personal opinions and personal decisions/comfort levels. No one out there can actually give you a factual reply.
The other thing you might wanna consider is that Ni200 coils get kinda weird after dry burning. They become stiffer, yet more malleable. It doesn't make sense but you'll get it once you try it yourself. Several of us have talked about it. In any case, the coil becomes a lot more prone to deformation after dry burning.
For me, I alternate between rebuilding or cleaning depending on how lazy I am
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There are others (like myself) who don't really see an issue with it. After all, Ni200 is 99.7% Ni, and the actual % of carbon is (IMO) too low to cause significant physiological effects. So we are ok with dry burning it.
Of course these are all personal opinions and personal decisions/comfort levels. No one out there can actually give you a factual reply.
The other thing you might wanna consider is that Ni200 coils get kinda weird after dry burning. They become stiffer, yet more malleable. It doesn't make sense but you'll get it once you try it yourself. Several of us have talked about it. In any case, the coil becomes a lot more prone to deformation after dry burning.
For me, I alternate between rebuilding or cleaning depending on how lazy I am
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
28 AWG dual coils will fit (just barely) in several dual coil attys. 2.5mm, 13 wraps, comes out to around 0.1+ ohm. I wrap my coils using this method:
How to wrap PERFECT spaced coils and dual coils the Mad Scientist way | E-Cigarette Forum
On dual coil builds, I do oxidize the spaced coils with a torch (at your own risk, etc) and then pinch them just enough to fit within the chimney once mounted.
I'm not a fan of twisting with kanthal because it effects the TCR curve of the coil. I know this can be compensated for but I'm just not a fan. Plus it will reduce the resistance (a bit) and it's already hard enough to fit coils with enough resistance lol.
Resistance sweet spot is as much as you can get. For dual coils, keeping it above 0.1 as a minimum is hard enough lol. (And yes, the m-class will work lower but I just don't really like the look or the user interface of it. Sits in a drawer as a backup)
To fit more wire and bigger coils or more coils, we need bigger attys.
When will we see a new crop of RTAs bigger than 22mm? | E-Cigarette Forum
Nickel build in a GS Air M......very nice vape for a cheap atty. Works superbly....on the Vaporshark too.
I just double the wire and stretch it a few times with the wire loop around a small screwdriver on one end and hold the tail ends with a pair of pliers. A few gentle stretches straightens and hardens the wire. Also thins it a bit -- a little cheat to get the resistance up slightly lol.
just made a 30ga ni200 fused Clapton with 36ga nichrome as the Clapton....
vapes nice...better than simple twisted 30ni200...
put 12 wraps on 2.5mm dual coil....came out to .06 ohms
vaping it at 50j 500f
nice warm flavorful vape...good cloudage too
I was kinda ho hum on tc, but I really like this build
thanks to you guys that suggest using other wire with your ni
vapes nice...better than simple twisted 30ni200...
put 12 wraps on 2.5mm dual coil....came out to .06 ohms
vaping it at 50j 500f
nice warm flavorful vape...good cloudage too
I was kinda ho hum on tc, but I really like this build
thanks to you guys that suggest using other wire with your ni
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