My lemo and aromamizer work as they should, with goblin mini i get instant temp protect..so i'm guessing its somehow more sensitive as some other mods? The same goblin works fine on regular size evic..
eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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Well my Ti has arrived and it's no better on the VTC than Ni 200 is for TC operation. One bonus of the Ti is one can make normal sized coils that actually fit in to most RTA's.
So Ti in Ti mode doesn't work properly, still instant TP.
I put a 0.4 ohm coil in the Origen Dripper which works perfectly on the IPV D2. What is the sacred protocol of sequences to get that running under Ni mode on the VTC?
Clear all setting on the VTC and unlock the resistances.
Install the Ti atty, switch over to Ni mode, lock the resistance and set temp to 100F?
Is that correct?
Local B&M Update:
I was over to the B&M last night on the way home to discuss the problems again with the store manager, seems they will only exchange for a similar product, not a substitute or refund. Told him that they all have this issue and I am not interested in the same problems. I am not liking their policy on returns and might just have to reconsider purchasing there.
He said that he does not see this issue with his VTC. Then added that he only runs it with Kanthal... Told him Kanthal works perfectly, and if it was just a matter of the temperature on the VTC being low and one had to run it at 450F instead of 420F then that would not be a problem. It just totally bags out when the TP problem hits.
So he will check with his supplier to see if there are any reports of issues and also check with the owner about a possible exchange for an IPV D2. Told him I really liked the VTC aesthetics and if it was just a matter of a firmware fix, I could possibly wait, but how long? I don't want to exchange it because I don't like it, it just doesn't work properly. Also informed him about the mounting numbers of users in this thread with issues and that I'd check back next week with them.
So Ti in Ti mode doesn't work properly, still instant TP.
I put a 0.4 ohm coil in the Origen Dripper which works perfectly on the IPV D2. What is the sacred protocol of sequences to get that running under Ni mode on the VTC?
Clear all setting on the VTC and unlock the resistances.
Install the Ti atty, switch over to Ni mode, lock the resistance and set temp to 100F?
Is that correct?
Local B&M Update:
I was over to the B&M last night on the way home to discuss the problems again with the store manager, seems they will only exchange for a similar product, not a substitute or refund. Told him that they all have this issue and I am not interested in the same problems. I am not liking their policy on returns and might just have to reconsider purchasing there.
He said that he does not see this issue with his VTC. Then added that he only runs it with Kanthal... Told him Kanthal works perfectly, and if it was just a matter of the temperature on the VTC being low and one had to run it at 450F instead of 420F then that would not be a problem. It just totally bags out when the TP problem hits.
So he will check with his supplier to see if there are any reports of issues and also check with the owner about a possible exchange for an IPV D2. Told him I really liked the VTC aesthetics and if it was just a matter of a firmware fix, I could possibly wait, but how long? I don't want to exchange it because I don't like it, it just doesn't work properly. Also informed him about the mounting numbers of users in this thread with issues and that I'd check back next week with them.
Trolldragon,
The ipv d2 fires at lower max power in temp mode compared to the vtc. Where to do have the wattage set on the vtc when in temp mode?
I usually build .10-.12 nickel coils with 28awg ni200. If I leave the vtc set for 60w in temp mode it instantly goes into TP instantly which is normal.
What awg wire are you using?
The ipv d2 fires at lower max power in temp mode compared to the vtc. Where to do have the wattage set on the vtc when in temp mode?
I usually build .10-.12 nickel coils with 28awg ni200. If I leave the vtc set for 60w in temp mode it instantly goes into TP instantly which is normal.
What awg wire are you using?
Titanium on ni mode works better
Vs ti on ti mode
Give it a shot
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
I ran all my Ni 200 on the VTC around 430-450F/20-25W I have experienced it working absolutely perfect in this range and know that it will. I have built 00.9, 0.11 and 0.16 coils out of 28g, 28g Tempered and twisted 30g.
I would expect it to go into instant TP at 60W, but not at 25W till a dry coil.
I have tried and can repeat it every time. Clear the settings, put an room temp RTA on with a 0.16 ohm coil, lock in the showing resistance of 0.16. Settings at 430/25W and have an excellent vape with the TP never showing once till dry or if you just hold the button without vaping. I can watch the power level fluctuate with it dipping as low as 12W or so and coming back. In this mode after you let the RTA cool a few seconds, if you very quickly tap the Fire button, the temperature will flash 70F as the starting point. I know that everything will work perfectly when it does this. If I turn the power up to 40W or the temperature up to 480F the vape can actually get too warm.
Let the unit go to sleep...
Upon first tap of the Fire button to wake it, the resistance has dropped to something between 0.11 - 0.13 ohms and is still locked which it would be, It will also not ask the NCSC question since the VTC mini is supposed to adjust automatically on a lower resistance. Quickly hit the Fire button again and now the temperature starts not at 70F but anywhere between 130F to 160F, let the unit sit a few seconds and it is 220F with that quick tap. Take a vape and within 1/2 second the unit is in Full TP with the power hovering around 3-5W. Which leads to a very weak or anemic vape.
Unlock the unit take the RTA off play the reset resistance and reattach the RTA shuffle till it finally shows the NCSC question and detects the resistance at 0.16 again. Lock it in and try the quick hit of the Fire button, back to 70F as a starting point. Excellent vape again till it sleeps...
Then if you have the desire, Rinse and Repeat.
That is what I was asking.Titanium on ni mode works better
Vs ti on ti mode
Give it a shot
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
How do you set it up that way?
OK really easy
Set it up as you would on ti mode
But make sure you are on ni mode
Same procedure just a different mode...
As far as temp,
Well start with 300 going up of needed
Ni mode hits harder on ti coils
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
Checking in with my experiences. I was using a triton coil in power mode after getting sick of having go through a process everytime I wanted to vape. After reading more replies here I figured I would play with it some more and try some things others have. For my device it seems to work how it should except for the resistance drop issue. I wouldn't even have a problem with that behavior if I could still get a decent vape but when my .15 Ni200 coil reads .13 the Evic can't deliver an acceptable vape even maxed out. So I've been basically getting by by waking g the device @.13, firing for a second, unscrewing atty, hitting fire and reattach reattaching which gets the coil read at .15 most of the time and I can 'new coil' recalibrate and be good until the Evic sleeps a while and recalibrates itself to .13. By luck I locked it in at .16 and it slept and went down to .14 instead of the .13 is usually does, well at .14 the TC isn't quite right either but I can actually get flavor and a little warmth at 285C 570F so this is acceptable. Even better it's never dropped to .12 so even when it goes from .14 to .13 it's not the .02+ drop that forces a recalibration so for now I'm good with .15 nickel coils lol.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
FWIW i think the evic auto recalibrates when it reads a resistance drop of .02 or more without the NCSC prompt as a safety feature. Alot of people are thinking hitting protection is a problem on the Evic which others have pointed out it by design. The issue is when it's miscalibrated (what I call it when the resistance drops after sleep) it hits TP and cuts back to like 10-12 watts while you are drawing instead of say 25-35w on the exact same build. If 25-35w to the coil mid draw gives you a semi warm vape with some flavor of course 12w is going to be anemic. So you need to be watching how much power is going to the coil while pulling, just hitting TP doesn't indicate anything.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Setup the Ti 0.35 ohm atty under Ni on the VTC mini, 380F/30W and it seems to be working Ok. It's gone to sleep twice now and has come back still vaping.
Maraming salamat po.
And if you know Monty Python...
Puno ng palos ang aking hoberkrap
So I am not experiencing the going to sleep dropping resistance crap vape. But I have noticed that sometimes when you put on a cold atty and tap the fire button it's reads 70ish deg which seems right and other times it reads 170ish which is obviously incorrect. I can say that it vapes completely different under those scenarios. When it's reading 170ish it seems to run hot and require temp in the 300's to give great flavor and vapor and it plows through juice. When it reads 70ish I run it in the low 400's for the same vape.
I am not smart enough to have a theory on it. But something I have noticed.
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I am not smart enough to have a theory on it. But something I have noticed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is what we all experience who have the weak vape problem but I think you have your numbers reversed in the last bit... 70F/300F good hot vape, 170F needs 400F+ for similar vape or am i wrong?
Setup the Ti 0.35 ohm atty under Ni on the VTC mini, 380F/30W and it seems to be working Ok. It's gone to sleep twice now and has come back still vaping.
Maraming salamat po.
And if you know Monty Python...
Puno ng palos ang aking hoberkrap
Hahahaha hahahhaha
Sorry had laugh on that hovercraft line
Well I think this might be our work around for now
Temps may not be accurate but at least it still works and are usable
Hopefully joytech fixes this
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
No. When it's got that 170 reading and I set it anywhere near 400 the coil pops like crazy and pumps out serious vapor.
Just tested it. 170 ish and set it at 370 and 20w on a .13 ohm build. Good vape and it hits temp quickly and sits at about 13 w to maintain it.
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My fix is to only use it in power mode. Unfortunate because I like the box and screen. I'll use it for kanthal builds.
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Why don't you try a replacement that was offered? I'm sure they don't all have those problems. I've had them, but in my case it was because of bad connections in the topper, so i guess it could be a bad 510 on your device? If they were all faulty, this thread would probably have 1000 pages by now..
don't forget,that mostly people with issues come searching for answers to such forums. I know it looks like everyone has those issues, but i guess its not more that 5-10 of us, complaining here
I'll see what they say next week and go from there... If they will not sub or refund then there will be a black one going home with me after checking the batch number on the magnet to make sure it is different.Why don't you try a replacement that was offered? I'm sure they don't all have those problems. I've had them, but in my case it was because of bad connections in the topper, so i guess it could be a bad 510 on your device? If they were all faulty, this thread would probably have 1000 pages by now..
Well my response from VapeNW was my device was working fine. I sent them a video with multiple tanks and then using the same tank on another mod to show the coil was fine. But to them a board that is malfunctioning is working properly. I explained a lot to them and that this is not user error they just kept saying that is how the board is supposed to operate. I spent 250$ there in the past month but they won't replace a broken device. I will NEVER BUY FROM VapeNW again. I would say just use caution and if it's something you may have to return remember this story. It was just very frustrating listening to the CS guy saying that I was wrong and this is how the joytech VT and VTC mini chips work and he could do nothing for me accept deny me my right to a warranty.
Anyone have issue with the floating 510 pin not floating much! Mine is very stiff to the point where Im not sure it is moving at all..
Mine was stiff then I grabbed a small screwdriver and pushed it in then it seemed fine. not sure if that will work for you but it's worth a try. I wouldn't push too hard on it though.Anyone have issue with the floating 510 pin not floating much! Mine is very stiff to the point where Im not sure it is moving at all..
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