Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

[absoluttalent]

Will have another update tomorrow. Waiting on the jbweld to cure so I can attempt to screw the 510 pin in. Today I soldered the positive pin to the existing wire on the board.
I put some Noalox on the threads (some people swear by it, i figured it couldnt hurt) and some JB weld around the underside of the 510 and first few threads to hold it in.

I need to find my small needle nose pliers that have the teeth. It looks to be a very small area to get the positive pin cap on, cant do it with fingers.

As long as the JB weld holds, I can then solder the negative lead to the top heatsink and remember how to put it all back together

 

[absoluttalent]

This is going to be in 2 posts Im assuming (10 picture cap on posts).

Tonite, i finished. huzzzah. It can be done. Slightly pain in the .... to accomplish, but doable.


I re-attached the negative to the heatsink block on the existing post that was used. No way I can use the washer and nut the varitube 510 comes with.


Bought some K5 Pro thermal paste from amazon. Says it is good up to 3mm, we are only filling like 1mm, so its ok. Spread it on the 3 contact points. Was a little generous with it, and not too tidy I didnt even bother taking off the old stuff.


Now the trick is, you kinda have to re-mount the board to the heatsink before actually connecting stuff. Otherwise you dont have much room to really work. So give the positive pin a little bend.


And mount the board into the heatsink. I did this by placing the end in first at a slight angle, then tipping the heatsink over. Give it a good press to seat the heatsink on the goop. Also secure it with the 2 gold screws on the other side. Keeps everything together so you can screw in the pin


I used a small set of tweezers to slowly tighten the pin cap on. Took awhile, but gripped it there and kept giving small turns until it was completely seated.


Now you have to route the negative wire through the area by the pin (like when it was first taken apart). I didnt snap a picture of it, but I had to hold the top section of the battery terminal (the one with the plastic post that goes through the board) at a slight 45*, then using tweezers, place the terminal ends in, then their springs, then the backer plate. Screw the backer plate back on, then squeeze and fit it to the heatsink. Insert and tighten the 3 gold screws, reapply the positive/negative stickers if you want


*continuted in next post

 

[absoluttalent]

insert the board and heatsink back into the body. It appears I lost a screw


Side by side of the old look and the newly painted/modded one


The stock cuboid on the right read the current crown .5 coil as .57. The cuboid on the left reads it as .54, for what its worth.


The new 510 sits higher up than stock. If I had used the 10mm instead of 14mm, im sure I could get it more flush. Difference between the 10 and 14 was the addition of that collar on the top. The 10mm is just a threaded insert. So the atty would end up sitting, theoretically, on top of the cuboid. That would lead to scratches.


heres a shot showing the gap now from the increased height


and final shot, with plexi put back in. Side note, I put a piece of blue painters tape sticky side up on my table. I put the large plexi on that, gel tape side up. Then I put the + - button in place on the tape. the tape held everything together until I could reapply it to the cuboid. Otherwise you are fighting to get the button in place. Tape it all as one piece, reapply, peel tape to leave the screen and button in place where it goes.



So i finished. It can be done. This was the first time ive done anything to any of my mods. If you have not had soldering experience, or arent technically able, i would say dont give this your first shot. Tight working areas at times makes it to a frustrating experience.

All in all, while im not too happy about the slightly added gap between the tank and mod, I am pleased with how it turned out. Nexttime I have some freetime, will give it a rundown with all my atty's (subtank mini and TF4V specifically, those are the ones that gave me atty short) to make sure it works well. I may even do this to my other cuboid with the 22mm 510.

But if you are going to give it a shot, i guess disclaimer. I am not responsible for anything you do and/or dont do with your Cuboid.

 

[TrollDragon]

Excellent Job!

 

[KenD]

Updated, and added a logo. The fonts are edited with NFirmwareEditor.

Some features edited as well. Here's my stealth mode (or Ninja mode, as I call it):

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[absoluttalent]

so an update after one day...

The whole reason I did this was to try to eliminate the atty short errors I was getting on this Cuboid. After one day, they have returned while using the crown with .5 coil.

This is leading me to believe the error lies somewhere other than what I touched. The 510 itself is not the culprit. I am sort of thinking its an issue with the board, but am not able to confirm. Joyetech is tight-lipped about what changes specifically between its hardware revisions. The one I worked on was v1, the other one I have which has been fine was v2 or v3, i forgot which offhand. But if I remember, someone else had a v2 with the same issues.

I am still going to give some other attys a shot though.
im disappointed Im going to go drink now

 

[Major911]

Maybe the problem isn't the cuboid at all. Did you consider it might be the crown?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[absoluttalent]

Maybe the problem isn't the cuboid at all. Did you consider it might be the crown?

I am well aware the crown has a slightly longer connection than the griffin and aromamizer. Same thing with the subtank mini and TFV4, they are also longer. But I have never had this issue with my other mods and those attys. Only the Cuboid.

Coincidentally, those are the same atty's the majority of atty short problems exist with with this unit.

The same issue occurs on some rx200's, which a response was, the TFV4 will damage the rx200/dont use it. The rx200 also uses the joyetech chip that we know of, who knows what else they are using.

Taking all this into consideration, using the Crown on 2 different hardware versions of the same mod (one has the issue, other doesnt), and eliminating the 510 as the culprit, I am inclined to believe the problem exists from the unit itself and not the Crown

 

[Lorenzo Morchio]

New official firmware is out

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[TrollDragon]

New official firmware is out

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

I went to see and it is still version 3.12 from 2 weeks ago...

 

[Major911]

I went to see and it is still version 3.12 from 2 weeks ago...

And what changes were made in that version over 3.11?

 

[TrollDragon]

And what changes were made in that version over 3.11?

Cut and paste from the firmware site.
Software download - Joyetech

With the new Firmware V3.02/3.12, users can upload custom logos onto the Cuboid as you like. The logo should be single color bmp. picture with limited 64*40 pixel.


Modes Shift Adjustment
On the new firmware V3.02 and V3.12, we made a slight change to the modes shifting. In the main menu, we’re now having TEMP, TCR, POWER and SMART modes.
We integrate normal VT modes (Temp Ni, Temp Ti, Temp SS316) into the TEMP sub-menu. When you at the sub-menu, just press the Up button to switch among Temp NI, Temp TI, and Temp SS316 modes.
We also changed the display of TCR mode, that is to say, we added the actual TCR value onto the mode display (e.g. TCR 120 M1).

Combining all the regular TC modes into one menu and the display of the TCR values are excellent UI changes IMHO.

 

[big4570]

I really try to like this device. But the simple fact that only 1 of my 10 atomizers sits flush on it drives me really up the wall. Especially because I could have bought something else.

 

[TrollDragon]

I really try to like this device. But the simple fact that only 1 of my 10 atomizers sits flush on it drives me really up the wall. Especially because I could have bought something else.

Cheap, Janky, Joytech 510 foolishness.

Pick up some of these...
KP Mod Guard - 5 Pack

 

[TrollDragon]

Well they have updated the Firmware again...
Now it includes a game to play.
Software download - Joyetech

 

[jesseseetai]

hey can someone tell me if the Cuboid powers up and can function if only one battery is inserted? i'm interested in modding one into a squonker if that's possible

 

[absoluttalent]

hey can someone tell me if the Cuboid powers up and can function if only one battery is inserted? i'm interested in modding one into a squonker if that's possible

as it currently stands, no. It will not work with one battery as is.
The battery door on the bottom bridges the + from one battery and the - from the other to complete the circuit in series. Maybe if you were to run a lead from the door to the other terminal, close the circuit. Then im pretty sure it will work.

I have no way of testing this as of now to confirm.


also, gonna add /facepalm
WHY why why why why???? why would they choose to release a firmware update with a game?

 

[IDJoel]

hey can someone tell me if the Cuboid powers up and can function if only one battery is inserted? i'm interested in modding one into a squonker if that's possible

No, it will not power up with a single battery (I just tried with a single battery in each position).

 

[MikeyConti]

Nevermind, I'm not going to touch the Battery Modifications as my references usually end up with people actually trying them..

 

[KenD]

as it currently stands, no. It will not work with one battery as is.
The battery door on the bottom bridges the + from one battery and the - from the other to complete the circuit in series. Maybe if you were to run a lead from the door to the other terminal, close the circuit. Then im pretty sure it will work.

I have no way of testing this as of now to confirm.


also, gonna add /facepalm
WHY why why why why???? why would they choose to release a firmware update with a game?

It still wouldn't as the voltage would be too low. The Cuboid is a two-battery series mod, so it'll need at least 6.4v in order to function.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk