Lol. Same here, no comprende. Since I'm not affected, I'll bow out 
I am running 26 gauge too. It stays in TC mode fine as long like I said with the testing I was doing. If the coil is low the power in TC mode needs to be higher ,and if your coil is higher the power in TC mode needs to be lower to stay in TC mode. Other than that this testing for the past three days now is driving me crazy trying to figure out why others àre having this problem.
I was just using 2 new RDA's I bought for the testing I was doing. I normally run my TFV4's and usually drip on my mech's but changed it up a bit.When I had issues with it jumping to power mode from tc, i found cleaning the threads on my atty and on the cuboid helped. just used a paper towel and cleaned it up a bit, worked fine afterwards. Its real finicky, little ddust throws it all out of wack. Otherwise, its slightly loose connection in the atty. This was with a crown, griffin, and aromamizer)
are all 3 black?No not all three just the one I was doing the testing on,the black cuboid. I was not using the other two devices to test although I probably should have to see what would have happened.
Possible that they powder coated the top heatsink then put the 510 in so the ground connection could be slightly insulated and throwing resistance off?are all 3 black?
From what ive read so far, seems the black ones have 90% of the issues thats being reported.
both of mine are black. One had the atty short problem (the one Im tearing apart), but both read resistances .03-.05 higher, and both did have fluctuating resistances
I do like the cuboids when they do work. Nice and small for a dual battery. But Im torn. I wouldnt mind getting another one in grey since they can be had for under $40, but at the same time, I dont want to slip Joyetech more money for these types of issues if it persists on another color.
The dark gray is the one that performs flawlessly and I love the color it goes with most of my tanks which are satin or black to gun metal in color.No I have one of each color and the original dark gray .
What batteries are you using?I think I have figured out why TC jumps into power mode after trying quite a few builds over the past couple days ranging from .22-.25(keep in mind this is with 316L SS wire). It seems like the higher you go in the resistance even if it is only .03 difference,you have to go lower on the power setting. I have a coil at .26 and kept my same power setting at 50 with 430 TC and it kept jumping back to power mode .So I started lowering the power setting and got it to 45 and it stays in TC mode.So maybe Joyeetech does have a glitch or two in Their board for this unit,or the power and TC is their back design of the DNA 200 board???
I cannot find the correlation with resistance and when it happens besides the fact the temp will read out much lower than it should. I fire it up when drawing and temp will read <200 for 2-3 seconds, then switch to power mode. I will have to keep better track.
I know ive used .22 up to .54 in TC. it was hit or miss with kicking me out to power mode.
Its happened with my 25r's and 30q's. Only thing thats been consistant with when its happened was when I used 316L 28ga wire, dual spaced coils. This was also when I used the default grubs on the aromimizer and griffin. I have switched out to the slotted replacements from Vaping Walrus and started using 26ga more. No issues since. So I am still thinking maybe its just acting funky from a bad connection at the posts with the wire.
T8, you said it was 2 new RDAs, which ones? And which wire?
Since we already know the cuboid occasionally has issues with longer threaded attys, getting a list of a wider range of compatible equipment would help.