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yes I removed the diffuser also
Phew...after a lot of peering and fiddling and plenty of 
I couldn`t get a grommet section over the airtube.
So, after I had calmed down, instead I used two small orings as a new test.
I`d already had my patience tried quite severely with the Merlin Mini (that was the other package).
I`m sure between us we`ll get some answers
~~~~~
Siren: Full on biblical flood while it was sat on the table - will have to check it out tomorrow.
likely 2 rings are too much, it was packed with rayon so not that.
I couldn`t get a grommet section over the airtube.So, after I had calmed down, instead I used two small orings as a new test.
I`d already had my patience tried quite severely with the Merlin Mini (that was the other package).
I`m sure between us we`ll get some answers
~~~~~
Siren: Full on biblical flood while it was sat on the table - will have to check it out tomorrow.
likely 2 rings are too much, it was packed with rayon so not that.
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You don't put it over, you put it inside the air tube.Phew...after a lot of peering and fiddling and plenty of
So, after I had calmed down, instead I used two small orings as a new test.
I`d already had my patience tried quite severely with the Merlin Mini (that was the other package).
I`m sure between us we`ll get some answers
Sorry Ian, I was referring to Ogies test of using a grommet instead of an o-ring for the leaking rather than restricting airflow - I should have specified.
Guess I misunderstood. I took the 510 and grommet out of one of my black 22's and just tightened everything without putting an oring in. Things were quite loose in there. Have that in one of my SBS boxes. Had given up on putting a siren in there as I get juice all over my hands. Will let you know. Still have a dry 25. You may have figured this thing out Fad. Good work!!!
yes it is hard you need to cut in half and use the thinner piece lube it with vg and put it on top of pos pin and push straight down it will stay with a little help of of a small screw driver,then put the screw driver up like you where going to tighten the pin.then use a screwdriver to finish pushing it down and in the hole. hope i said that right. I will try to post pic later
You may not even need the extra oring. The black 22 that I tightened up has not leaked at all over the last couple of hours. Looks like I may be able to go back to using the siren in my side by sides. I filled up my 25 as well. No seeping at all. Fad, you have made my day!!
I had a SS 25 and a SS 22 that were in use. Both half full and both seeping. I cleaned them off, removed the 510, tightened them up and put them back together. Neither of them have leaked either. So 4 sirens tightened up and 0 leaks. Will alternate the 4 of them thru tomorrow. Probably won't be on tomorrow as I have 8 yards of mulch to spread.
That was some pretty interesting reading as I got caught back up from this morning. Please though, put some pic's up for me ogie and Fad as I'm having a difficult time envisioning the process. I already know about using the tubing in the air tube to reduce the air flow, so it's the other process that I'm foggy about. Are ya'll putting the o-ring under the positive block, then just tightening up the positive pin as usual ?
Guys but am I the only lucky one not to experience leaking ?!
I haven't had leaking. When I don't have enough cotton in the wick, I will get some seeping through the airflow holes. That's easily fixed by adding cotton to the wick. I've only got the 22 ml. version, however. I think the 25s are a bit more prone to leading.
Guys but am I the only lucky one not to experience leaking ?!
It's entirely possible that you could have a none leaker/seeper, as Chinese manufacturing is, at best, hit and miss, meaning not consistent. If you have a none leaker/seeper I would recommend that you fit it with a digital I.D. band of some sort and register it with you're local Police department for the unlucky event that it gets stolen, as they are few and far between.
Edit: Since they are no longer being made, the Siren falls under "The Endangered Species Act" and is therefore protected under the "International Agreement between Nations". Keep that in mind, Please.
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That is a very wise course of action, I applaud you.
You got me inspired to do something, so I did the add-the-wick trick. And I can say with all assurance that here, 3 minutes later, not a drop in site.
22 hours later...... appropriate, no? Not a driblette in sight. The Atta-Boy (Atta-wick) trick seems to have worked for me. For now.
The Random Tank.
Exquisitely, even. Add the Egg Rolls to that short list.
Oh me too me too me too me too! Enuf already.
I think your comment about machining tolerances/factory errors might be coming into play here...possibly, certainly not out of the question for a hardware error.
I must ask: Have you checked how tight the positive post is ? (+ insulator that sits below it) on the deck ?
It just occurred to me that they might not be all equal when it comes to QC on the assembly line
(I know it sounds a weird concept coming from a Chinese factory - but I`m quite serious)
Wondering if your positive post on one wasn`t quite as tightly screwed in place at the time of assembly.
If it`s in any way loose it`s quite feasible that juice could be getting inside there quicker on one unit than the other.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I`ll give these 4 test tanks until Friday evening
(3 days, my usual time allotted for a coil to live, that`s a guideline not a law
if all is going well, within reason, I will change out the "extra" o-rings for some slightly larger ones if I have any and do another test run, maybe with just two this time and see what happens.
Your testing is awe inspiring and amazing. Regardless, for the last two pages, I have zero idea what you guys are even talking about. I hear O-rings, insulators, grommets, and my brain translates "Blah blah blah BLAH blah". Sorry. If I can't fix it with a toothpick or a nail file? I'm OUT.
I've got to give all y'all credit. That's all I can say.
Right??? Can you even imagine, sweets?
Fix my siren completely on Fad's Idea. I got to thinking he was right so I tore one apart like he did,but I used an old atomizer bottom pin gasket cut it in half using the bottom part . then popped that around positive air post,then used a screwdriver to holed the pin up then finished pushing the gasket down in the hole . tightened the positive pin down. assembled and filled ,vaped half a tank laid it on it's side for 4 hours ,vaped perfect no leaks. second refill today perfectly dry.It also tightens up the air flow at the same time, and yes my positive post was not all the way tight from the get go.did my second one also same results.Thanks Fad
these are 22"s
Grommet guy! I like it!
Geeze 5-2. At least you have some comprehension of the surgeries! I'd love to see pics, too, but I'm not sure even that would be helpful to me.
ATTA-WICK, bay'bee!
That`s exactly it....
Ogie has tried using a grommet section instead - which acts as a band...
This part only~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Which fits here~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*****When easily accessed from here~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Don`t take the whole thing apart !
^^^ This is where I put the o-ring initially.
I got frustrated when trying to slip the "grommet collar" over last night - I will try again today in the daylight.
It seems some people have had results from just tightening up the whole airpin assembly without adding any physical liquid barriers such as an o-ring etc
So that`s definitely worth testing first.
OK then. I just tore apart my Siren 22 (because it was seeping worse than my 25mm Siren), took my build off (all in one piece, cause I'm running another test with it too), took off the diffuser, took off the screw to the positive post, took out the 510 screw that contacts the 510 pin of my mod, put a small flat head screw driver up into the 510 slot and seated it into the bottom of the positive post, turned the screw driver and found the positive post less than ¼ turn loose (so the factory did not tighten the positive post properly after all) so I then unscrewed it all the way, I completely took off the positive block (where 1 leg of the coil gets screwed down).
I then pushed a 4x1mm o-ring down over the positive post threading and worked it down to the grey colored peek insulator, then put the positive block back onto the positive post (with the added o-ring underneath the positive block and around the positive post), then inserted my flat headed screw driver up into the 510 slot and while holding the positive block in place I screwed the positive post tight up into the positive block, installed the positive post screw and diffuser, and then re-installed my build (wick and all), then installed the 510 screw (the gold plated one that contacts the 510 pin of the mod).
I then put the base back onto the mod and did a test fire, my ohms changed to 0.97Ω from 1.05Ω before I started this whole experiment (so the loose positive post did have an effect on the resistance), but seems to be stable, I have it in XxX TC mode running NiCr (like before) on my G2. I took off the base from my mod and re-installed the glass, top, and drip tip to complete the re-assembly procedure. I then filled my Siren with juice and re-checked my resistance, still 0.97Ω. So far no leaks, drips, or seeping. I'll keep ya'll informed as to how this is working. BTW, even though I added that 4x1mm o-ring underneath the positive block, both the positive and negative posts are straight up and down (no leaning posts).
I then pushed a 4x1mm o-ring down over the positive post threading and worked it down to the grey colored peek insulator, then put the positive block back onto the positive post (with the added o-ring underneath the positive block and around the positive post), then inserted my flat headed screw driver up into the 510 slot and while holding the positive block in place I screwed the positive post tight up into the positive block, installed the positive post screw and diffuser, and then re-installed my build (wick and all), then installed the 510 screw (the gold plated one that contacts the 510 pin of the mod).
I then put the base back onto the mod and did a test fire, my ohms changed to 0.97Ω from 1.05Ω before I started this whole experiment (so the loose positive post did have an effect on the resistance), but seems to be stable, I have it in XxX TC mode running NiCr (like before) on my G2. I took off the base from my mod and re-installed the glass, top, and drip tip to complete the re-assembly procedure. I then filled my Siren with juice and re-checked my resistance, still 0.97Ω. So far no leaks, drips, or seeping. I'll keep ya'll informed as to how this is working. BTW, even though I added that 4x1mm o-ring underneath the positive block, both the positive and negative posts are straight up and down (no leaning posts).
I don't know how you got the deck apart from the base, I couldn't budge it, so I put my o-ring on top of the deck under the positive block instead.
That`s about it - one difference I should point out
We have been putting the o-ring below the "grey insulator" - so it will fill in that gap between the air-post and the metal of the deck hole.
So, another variation is in the testing works....fingers crossed.
We have been putting the o-ring below the "grey insulator" - so it will fill in that gap between the air-post and the metal of the deck hole.
So, another variation is in the testing works....fingers crossed.
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