Fogger v2 performance upgrades

[Gummy Bare]

bookmarked... got one of these and still ain't had time to set it up yet. I'm thinking i wont have a chance without this thread i was kindly directed to by a buddy.

gotta give it a read once i get home and have some time.

thanks for all the hard work to everyone that contributed.

 

[jubiare]

One thing, that happens with the R91% too, when I put a fresh battery in it's dry hits time!!

 

[adrkaushal]

Latest news, Fogger V2 (or maybe V3) will now be available with a ss tank. you can either use the glass tank or the ss tank on your new fogger

Source: https://www.facebook.com/situ.suki

The only thing I'm missing in the new ss tank is a "view of the eLiquid level". There is no way to know how much eLiquid is left in the tank. I did give a suggestion to the manufacturer to do something about that. There has to be some way of knowing how much juice is left in the tank ..

 

[DrMA]

I wrap all my vertical coils on a 1.5mm drill bit. I can't measure how close it is at the bottom but it is pretty close. This stays so wet I don't think it will be a problem. I have put 40 ml thru it with one cleaning and dry burn at 30ml.

Next time I clean it and dry burn I will take a pic from the top without the filler. I am now using hemp fiber for filler.

Thanks for the inspiration, BJ. Here's my take on the conversion of the Fogger into a carto-tank

That's an Aluminum oxide ceramic core with a 2.5mm hole thru it. Coil goes vertically inside the hole (good contact with the walls is essential). I used carto poly material to fill the gaps (oh, the irony ).



This is still temperamental, and making the ceramic core is a messy and painstaking task. I'm not sure I've found the most viable setup for this tank yet...

 

[BJ43]

Thanks for the inspiration, BJ. Here's my take on the conversion of the Fogger into a carto-tank

That's an Aluminum oxide ceramic core with a 2.5mm hole thru it. Coil goes vertically inside the hole (good contact with the walls is essential). I used carto poly material to fill the gaps (oh, the irony ).

This is still temperamental, and making the ceramic core is a messy and painstaking task. I'm not sure I've found the most viable setup for this tank yet...

I had been looking at my 6 Ao stone thinking I would do something similar, but the hemp fiber is so good I decided it wasn't worth all that dremeling. Great job though...

 

[bapgood]

Below are a couple of my posts from the Fogger V2....WOW thread


Below is how I get it apart. My second one was really stuck together and both had some kind of thread locking goo.

- first start by running hot water over the base for a few minutes, probably better is boiling the base for a few minutes.
- while it's still warm but cool enough to handle find something to grab around the base and something that fits good in the slots. I use some pliers that I put heat shrink over the jaws and a pair of tweezers in the slot.
- if the chimney cap doesn't thread on or is a little tight, this can happen if you are using something in the slots and have to torque really hard to separate the pieces. (Second pic) I use the heat shrunk pliers and work around the chimney cap threads, slightly squeezing until the chimney cap threads on good.

Air flow and easy short preventing trick

The ID of the center tube is the most restrictive in the air flow path, followed by the four holes in the center tube, then the three holes in the base with the adjuster ring.

Couple things to check if air seems restricted.

- that the notch in the bottom silicone piece is lined up with the three holes in the base. Instead of worrying about trying to keep it lined up, I trimmed it to the diameter of the disk on the center tube.

- make sure the insulator on the center tube isn't covering the four holes in the center tube.


Here is what the parts look like originally

Here are the mods I did to eliminate possible shorting and open air flow up to what the adjustment ring allows.

- trimmed bottom silicone piece to diameter of center tube disk.
- glued a piece of plastic opposite of the insulated coil post that is approximately the same height of the insulated coil post.
- cut off the top of the center tube....warning this piece is brass with coating.

The 510 threads on the fogger are a little long and can cause it not to set down flush on some mods and possibly cause shorting issues. I used a dremel with cutoff wheel and shortened the 510 a little.



And here is what a Fogger should look like

 

[BobC]

You missed mentioning the new tank glass & top cap, looks fantastic!
I've done your other adjustments already, with exception to cutting off the center tube, instead I just bored the air holes to 1/16th holes
I'd love to buy a tank & cap from you though

 

[bapgood]

You missed mentioning the new tank glass & top cap, looks fantastic!
I've done your other adjustments already, with exception to cutting off the center tube, instead I just bored the air holes to 1/16th holes
I'd love to buy a tank & cap from you though

Here is the area of the air passages, based on my measurements

Area of the 3 external ~1mm holes = 2.356

Area of the 4 internal ~0.8mm holes in center tube = 2.010

Area of the ~1.6mm ID of the center tube = 2

I need to double check the center tube ID but it looks to be the most restrictive by quite a bit. So likely opening up the three outside holes didn't gain anything.

I have a Taifun GT and it uses a 1.2mm air hole and I don't mind it.


Edit - I lied the center hole is ~1.6mm

 

[BobC]

Here is the area of the air passages, based on my measurements

Area of the 3 external ~1mm holes = 2.356

Area of the 4 internal ~0.8mm holes in center tube = 2.010

Area of the ~1.2mm ID of the center tube = 1.113

I need to double check the center tube ID but it looks to be the most restrictive by quite a bit. So likely opening up the three outside holes didn't gain anything.
I have a Taifun GT and it uses a 1.2mm air hole and I don't mind it.

I bored the 4 internal holes to 1/16 (1.5875mm) each

 

[bapgood]

I bored the 4 internal holes to 1/16 (1.5875mm) each

Did you notice more air flow?

I'm pretty sure the center tube ID is the most restrictive (unless the others are blocked )

 

[BobC]

Yes, quite a bit, but imitations in the tube are still a factor, but the 'turbo effect' of the tube stem help, I think
Edit 'helps'

 

[BJ43]

Did you notice more air flow?

I'm pretty sure the center tube ID is the most restrictive (unless the others are blocked )

The only one that counts is the smallest one... No matter how much you open the others...

 

[bapgood]

I lied the center hole is ~1.6mm

Here is the area of the air passages, based on my measurements

Area of the 3 external ~1mm holes = 2.356

Area of the 4 internal ~0.8mm holes in center tube = 2.010

Area of the ~1.6mm ID of the center tube = 2

I need to double check the center tube ID but it looks to be the most restrictive by quite a bit. So likely opening up the three outside holes didn't gain anything.

I have a Taifun GT and it uses a 1.2mm air hole and I don't mind it.


Edit - I lied the center hole is ~1.6mm

 

[DrMA]

I bored the 4 internal holes to 1/16 (1.5875mm) each

Did you notice more air flow?

I'm pretty sure the center tube ID is the most restrictive (unless the others are blocked )

I did the same and the increase in airflow is noticeable. I think you should regard "flow restriction" as the sum of all components, not just look at the most restrictive one.

In fluid dynamic speak, flow resistance (caused by friction) results in a pressure drop between the incoming and outgoing points. The pressure drop across all components of the system is additive, quite apart from the fact that each component might have a smaller, or larger value. Reducing flow resistance in any one component will therefore affect the total pressure drop of the system, even if you do reduce it for the component that is least restrictive.

In any case, I actually think the vertical air tube leading to the coil is essential in creating good vapor by functioning as a venturi device; so I'm reluctant to alter that part of the air system.

 

[BobC]

I did the same and the increase in airflow is noticeable. I think you should regard "flow restriction" as the sum of all components, not just look at the most restrictive one.

In fluid dynamic speak, flow resistance (caused by friction) results in a pressure drop between the incoming and outgoing points. The pressure drop across all components of the system is additive, quite apart from the fact that each component might have a smaller, or larger value. Reducing flow resistance in any one component will therefore affect the total pressure drop of the system, even if you do reduce it for the component that is least restrictive.

In any case, I actually think the vertical air tube leading to the coil is essential in creating good vapor by functioning as a venturi device; so I'm reluctant to alter that part of the air system.

That's what I meant by 'Turbo Effect' (layman's term), the placement of the stem holes creates a circular motion of air to the coil

 

[bapgood]

That's what I meant by 'Turbo Effect' (layman's term), the placement of the stem holes creates a circular motion of air to the coil

Actually I think DrMA meant that even though the 4 holes in the stem are about the same area as the single center hole, that the 4 smaller holes creates more restriction than a single hole of the same area. So making the 4 holes larger reduces the restriction. Unfortunately I don't think there is any turbo spooling circular motion going on in the fogger, but if it did I would want a loud blow off valve

 

[BobC]

Actually I think DrMA meant that even though the 4 holes in the stem are about the same area as the single center hole, that the 4 smaller holes creates more restriction than a single hole of the same area. So making the 4 holes larger reduces the restriction. Unfortunately I don't think there is any turbo spooling circular motion going on in the fogger, but if it did I would want a loud blow off valve

Never mind, re-read your post

 

[BJ43]

I have reamed out the outside air holes on mine because two were poorly drilled all way thru after that the draw was so light I keep the ring almost all the way down. My normal air hole preference is 1.2mm. Just before my third cleaning and vertical coil dry burn, about 110ml of juice thru it, I notice it wasn't drawing as freely and took it apart. The inside holes had some juice gel in them. Cleaned and back to normal. Curious to see how long this Fogger vertical 28g will last. I have a hard time deciding between it and the Russian, as to vaping they are even, the Russian a little easier to set up.

 

[Innocuous]

hahaha! From the sound of it, even a Rocket is easier to setup and maintain!

 

[Arvidx]

So I can't help but want more air, and I can confirm that once you remove the center post and insulator, the resulting center hole is large enough that the side holes become the restricting point. First I bored them each out to 1/16, and... more air!! good good... but not good enough, week later I broke out the dremel, and NOW we are getting close to what I want. I have no issues from the lack of post as far as I am concerned and now here's how the slot looks:



and during tonight's rewicking, I enjoyed a few minutes of a Mecha-Dripper!! Pinned the drip tip on by putting a piece of 28g along side the threads and it screwed on.




and last shot for the night, here's the coil I've been running for a while, gonna have to wait for it to give out before I try these verticals as it's working too well for now. Last two cotton wicks I stopped using the bits on the side, no need, a loose but full cotton wick does not leak does not dry till the last drop is out of the tank... I have not had a single gurgle or dry hit since pushing cotton through. huh who'da thunk. I don't even close the air flow to refill with the lid off any more.