I have recently gotten my hands on a fogger v1 to upgrade for a coworker. I love it actually.. mainly because I can remove and work on the Atty without removing the juice!! nice while getting these running right... Of course that comes at the expense of using glass. The tank provides the threads to secure it so it has to be plastic or metal. Not sure what it is exactly but the tank is thick and tough and does not worry me.
I also came up with a safe permanent solution to the 'shorting' possiblity in this mod. For use in the AFC (air flow chamber) JB Weld is perfect. Non toxic when dry, Insulator, and 500 degree sustained temperature tolerance.
FAQs » JB Weld
Also here are some pics on the upgraded parts on the V1 Fogger.
I drilled a direct 3/32nds hole into the AFC instead of the 510 connection directed air it had.
JB weld on the bottom of the deck after grinding a little spot to bond to and cleaning with laquer thinner.
bottom plastic insulator removed and replaced with air tube insulator on the bottom positive pin.
Air flow tube completely removed to allow full air flow.
This thing makes me jealous now and outperforms my fogger v2 plus... take apart when servicing without juice issues advantage....
oh well he gets it back still...
And finally for the last bit of Fogger updates... Ive tried to love the eko, I've build a few ok and good eko wicks as well as a braided ceramic. I even used wires in the core to enhance wicking, but dang it the cotton wins flavor and no leaks wise.... the pictured coil runs around 1.1 on this one wrapped around a 7/64ths bit and my fogger v2 is running cotton on a .6 ohm coil with an otherwise identical looking setup. Trick with cotton is to use as little as possible that still fluffs out to fill the needed diameter. I mean very little!!
With both foggers I am willing to give a quick air burst into the tank to increase saturation (prime the engine) every 3-5 hits as a trade off for no leaks, which is how I end up getting them to run best.