? for ProVape, is it possible to adapt the tapered ProVari to P3 threading?

[jwbnyc]

Still glued, not redesigning the whole PV, just changing the connector.

Okay. Just curious as to how the P3 top went together.

 

[Ca Ike]

Ok. First of all, thank you all for your replies and opinions. I seriously consider these things when making expensive and potentially life changing decisions.

I trust what you are saying, believe me. For the sake of argument and so maybe I can know, if AW's are at least as good as the Samsung's, why does ProVape recommend, and in fact make such a big deal about it on their website, the Samsung's over the Aw's?

I ask because I want to know before proceeding and perhaps changing my strategy. At the time of ordering our P3's and deciding just what 18650's to go with, I asked ProVape this question. They told me it was because the Samsung's had a better internal resistance. Not knowing what the Hell that exactly meant, I trusted what they said and decided to try a Samsung. The Samsung does seem to last two daze whereas the Aw's last one.

I am now in a bit of a quandary as what batteries to go with in the future.

Here's what I have reasoned based on crude testing. The p3 senses the voltage under load and prefers that over the resting voltage. Now under like usage i found the aw to have a slightly higher voltage drop under load than both my 25rs and vtc4s. That stands to reason being a higher internal resistance. Now the harder you drive the batt the faster that voltage drop comes on due to the heat factor increasing resistance and this is where the premature empty batt error comes from. I'm working on getting a better testing rig than my old box mod modded with a DMM probe set soldered to the batt contacts and a 510 thread output volt meter inline with the atty but so far it's worked well enough to show that my AWs tend to hit the low voltage limit under load at a higher resting voltage than 25r or vtc4. However, the AWs are more consistent over discharges.

This is just spare time tinkering for my own curiosity so I've not charted my tests.

 

[coldgin96]

Here's what I have reasoned based on crude testing. The p3 senses the voltage under load and prefers that over the resting voltage. Now under like usage i found the aw to have a slightly higher voltage drop under load than both my 25rs and vtc4s. That stands to reason being a higher internal resistance. Now the harder you drive the batt the faster that voltage drop comes on due to the heat factor increasing resistance and this is where the premature empty batt error comes from. I'm working on getting a better testing rig than my old box mod modded with a DMM probe set soldered to the batt contacts and a 510 thread output volt meter inline with the atty but so far it's worked well enough to show that my AWs tend to hit the low voltage limit under load at a higher resting voltage than 25r or vtc4. However, the AWs are more consistent over discharges.

This is just spare time tinkering for my own curiosity so I've not charted my tests.

Thanks for the info and taking the time to type it. This is the kind of info I look for when browsing and asking questions here @ ECF. Zen's commentary was invaluable to me also (as was Baditude's).

My own observations regarding the five, three year old 18650 AW's I have been using on my P3 while at home are as follows:
Starting 16June I began using said five, three year old AW's with my new P3 at home to use them up. They all read, "POOR" or "Bad" on the P3 but still last as long as a full Kabuki and read 4.2 on my Craftsman multi-meter (when I check) coming off the Pila. Most of the time, at the end of a tank full, the yellow light is flashing. At the end of the last tank, the battery gauge read 19%. Last month, I ditched one as the P3 read empty and wouldn't fire it. Both the V2 and multi-meter read 4.3 volts. I figured it being 3 years old, it was taking a overcharge and wasn't worth anymore effort. I was a chemical operator and lab-tech, not a battery engineer, damn it! Two of them are kept in the Jeep in a battery box as spare's for a month. On the first Wednesday of every month, I bring them in and exchange for fresh ones. Being outside (in Michigan in all climates) and unused for a month, they still retain a 4.2 volt reading on multi-meter. Keep in mind, they are 3 years old...

I have two Samsung 25R's which I use when going mobile. So far, they read, "GREAT" on the P3.

 

[magman007]

So, since I hamfisted my 2.5 and it needs to go into provape for a board replacement, provape did agree to adapt the tube to p3 510 connector. They will not offer it as a cosmetic upgrade currently, but given the state of my 2.5 is completely disassembled they agreed they would do it. as soon as I get it back I will post pics. Expect it to look like a beat to hell black 2.5 with a flat top connector. No more holding my hand out to catch the provape beauty ring when unscrewing the kayfun.

 

[Zen~]

The P3 connector retrofit program will start next week, stay tuned for details.

 

[kates]

Also if you want a new one - satin and polished minis now have the option of a P3 top (+$10).

 

[Zen~]

Also if you want a new one - satin and polished minis now have the option of a P3 top (+$10).

YES... if you don't have one to covert, start out with a fresh one from the mother ship!

 

[Ipster]

They did make a 2.75 ... the limited titanium

my favourite Provari
View attachment 487272

hear hear

 

[Ipster]

I hate to break it to you Enaud, its an interesting thought- but it sure looks like Sept-Oct is clearout the P2.5 stock.
Im seriously wondering if they're going to quit supporting them past years end with how many new designs of late??

 

[jwbnyc]

It's a shame. The P 2.5 is still a great chip. Probably not cost effective to keep both going. Still, shame to see it go.

 

[DPLongo22]

Thanks @Katdarling for putting me onto this. We'll "tawk", you and me.

THIS (change just the top-cap) is what I was hoping ProVape would do next. Instead, they jumped straight to the Classic (changed menu too).

I'm very interested to see where this goes, and am highly inclined to have it done to two, possibly three, of my tapered Provis.

What's up, Bad? Nice to see you.

 

[DPLongo22]

And reading on, I'm more confused. I will research further.

 

[DPLongo22]

Also if you want a new one - satin and polished minis now have the option of a P3 top (+$10).

If they extended this to all the old 2.5's, I might opt for that that (instead of upgrading 3+ year old ones).

 

[jwbnyc]

I hate to break it to you Enaud, its an interesting thought- but it sure looks like Sept-Oct is clearout the P2.5 stock.
Im seriously wondering if they're going to quit supporting them past years end with how many new designs of late??

And just to add, I really hope they find a way to keep it in the line up.

There are things about that chip that I prefer to the P3 chip.

 

[WorksForMe]

I hate to break it to you Enaud, its an interesting thought- but it sure looks like Sept-Oct is clearout the P2.5 stock.
Im seriously wondering if they're going to quit supporting them past years end with how many new designs of late??

I don't think they'll stop supporting the 2.5 anytime soon. I just ordered a new one, so they have to support it for at least a year. Will they stop making them? That's very possible. They may decide(or have already decided) that they've made the 2.5 for several years, and now it's time to move on. I really wish they'd tell us.

The thought of there not being any tapered top 2.5s on Provape's website makes me sad.

 

[MsLoud]

Yeah, I hope they dont do like the did with the Provape-1. One day it was there - the next - gone!

 

[Katdarling]

I love my 2 1/2s. I love the tapered top, but I also love the Ti top.

Having said that, there are some Provis I would not change. The one I WOULD like retrofitted is my GMZ Mini.

Pick your Provis, DPL, and we'll pack up boxes to send to Zen(d).


(stop it..... it rhymed)

 

[WillyZee]

Maybe get a Dragon done ... or a V1


Sent via iPhone

 

[ENAUD]

I have believed for a while, since they started dropping the prices on the ProVari's, that they are destined to go the way of the PV1, and, I secretly think the the "Classic, P3, and Radius, all have the same chipset, just programmed to different parameters. I don't have any way to substantiate it, but in my mind it makes sense...

I was all gung ho to get my gunmetal ProVari fitted with the new top cap when I started this thread...now I have pause. There will never be anymore produced, so now I need to think about it and maybe pick another ProVari for the mod, maybe I'll decide to do my V1 that Provape retro-fitted with a V2.5 board, magnifier screen, torx screws and slotted end cap, Maybe one of my V2 or V2.5 mini's with blue LED...choices choices, and the need to save up for a Radius...Provape is evil.....

 

[MsLoud]

I would wait to see if they offered the P3 top cap for the other 2.5s. They have it for the satin silver and polished now...I cant imagine why they wouldn't offer it for the others. With the prices of the 2.5s, I would order a brand_spankin new one with the P3 top cap an leave my others as is - like you - I see them going the way of the P-1 and though I wish there existed a beauty ring for the P-1, I would never change it.